Jennings restoration

After a couple of gentle reminders to the diesel specialists, I got my injectors back all shiny and with all new nozzles. Sooooooooooooooo...........just pop them in and we're good to go!

No such luck. Smoke was worse than before. No photos, I had to evacuate the barn or suffocate.

Time for a think. The smoke was whiteish and stinking of unburnt diesel. Not much under load, but lots on light load and on the overrun.

This cannot be lack of compression, or due to burning oil, or bad injectors. The only thing I haven't done is the injector pump, and I had refitted the pump taking the timing as read.

In my somewhat limited experience, white smoke has often been due to timing errors. Too retarded, and the cylinder charge is expanding and cooling off by the time the burn gets going, so there is a lot of unburnt fuel. I suspected the timing was too retarded. I thought I would try advancing the timing by rotating the pump.

Here's the new setting.

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It's not a huge difference, probably about 3 crank degrees but I thought I'd give it a go anyway to see if it made any difference.

It did. About half as much smoke as before. That meant that the timing setting of the pump was probably wrong, so it would be good to check that before making any more blind adjustments. Oh how I wish I had checked that when assembling the engine, and not trusted the marks!

Perkins have a handy little peg which engages in a couple of hole in the crank pulley. One is for TDC and the other is at the static injection point (18deg?) before TDC.

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With the engine locked exactly at the injection point. The fuel filter has to come off, and this cover can be removed.

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With the cover off, suck out the fuel...........................

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....................and there are the marks.

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You can see that even with the timing advanced a bit, the rotor still hasn't come around to the setting which is the end of the circlip just to the right. (The line just above the A is the mark, and it's moving downwards) So the timing had indeed been way out, and evn more advance was required.

Here's how bad the access to the bolt round the back is!

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That's a 1/4 drive ratchet with long extension, 7/32 socket and a cut-off 7/32 allen key. And even when it's on the bolt it's a right b***ard to turn, one miserable click at a time. I've made a temporary cover for the hatch to keep out any stray dirt.

Anyway, the pump was duly slackened, and here's the new setting.

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It doesn't seem a lot, but in diesel timing terms, that's a big adjustment. But now the timing is correct according to the pump rotor, with just a smidge of extra advance to cover any wear that might have taken place in the pump.

When putting the hatch cover back on, I discovered that the wrong screws had previously been used, and there was only two threads holding it onto an aluminium casting. Just as well I did this little exercise I think!

Fortunately I found the correct screws on my spare truck engine with the CAV pump, so I used those.
The correct screws had holes for wire seals, so that was conclusive evidence that the last person messing around with the pump was not a diesel specialist.

Fuel filter back on, quick bleed of the pump. Start the engine, and hey presto, the smoke was gone. Just the kind of stuff you'd expect from an engine designed before smoke regulations came in.

But now another problem:eek:.

Continued in another post............................
 
..............................A major fuel leak now. Coming from the thermostart reservoir.


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This is the reservoir (not leaking when I took the picture). Whip the cover off and it's full to overflowing.

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When working properly, the fuel only comes up to the top of the partition, and should drain out of the hole in the far side, back to the tank via the return.

In the middle of the cover under the gauze thingy there is an air admittance valve..................

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..................that should let air into the reservoir, but stop fuel getting out. Obviously there was dirt in the valve, which was blown through with compressed air till it worked OK. Problem solved.

The engine sounds a lot more dieselly now, runs like a dream:) till the next problem, naturally.

The timing problem may well account for the difficult starting too. I can only guess that perhaps the injection pump had been changed at some time, and fitted by simply aligning the lines on the casing. Before today I might well have done exactly that too, not realising that each pump had its own particular timing setting. The retarded timing would account for white smoke, and unburnt fuel, which would have washed the bores, and caused the wear, and broken the rings.

I've learned a lot, and hope I have a better engine now.
 
Phew what a marathon, amazing piece of detective work and a testament to your understanding of diesels. I am most impressed at your work:)
 
There comes a time with all these projects, you are so far in you can't go back, and even when you're stuck, the only way is to learn and go forward. What surprised me was getting the injectors back all shiny with brand new OEM nozzles, and the smoke was worse than before! There's lots of knowledge out there on t'interweb, but sorting the good from the guesswork is sometimes difficult.

I'm lucky to have the time to indulge my hobbies, and I think building engines (and gearboxes) is one of the most satisfying bits. Might even do the Perkins 4203 in the truck next year!
 
There comes a time with all these projects, you are so far in you can't go back, and even when you're stuck, the only way is to learn and go forward.
A bit like running into a forest, no matter how big the forest (or the job on your car) if you keep going forward you can only go half way into it as from then on you're on the way out.
 
A bit like running into a forest, no matter how big the forest (or the job on your car) if you keep going forward you can only go half way into it as from then on you're on the way out.

I'll have to take your word for that Baz, as I have absolutely no experience of running into forests, or running anywhere for that matter. I like the analogy though, because once you're right in there, you can equally well go round in circles and end up back where you started.
 
I admire your cool head and diagnostic skills, although from here I cannot hear the swearing!

I tend to panic for a few days/weeks before plucking up the confidence to follow reason.

Tom
 
Yes Tom, there has indeed been a bit of swearing from time to time. I have been doing projects all my life, many as a professional engineer, where there is real pressure to get things right. Now at least I usually only have myself to satisfy. Still take it seriously enough to lose sleep about things though.

If you liked that, you might well like http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/16cs-to-aef-engine-swap_topic52595.html. But if you are sqeamish about the dark side, perhaps best to give it a miss!:rolleyes:

Panky..............use those little plastic bags with the zip closers, and a slip of paper inside with a clue to what the bits are for.
 
So do I, but it's any ones guess what's inside:confused:
I've graduated from a bucket though after I found a few stray items left over after the Mini re-build:rolleyes:
 
Right..............done some more stuff on the van.

Time to do the vinyl cover over the engine and under the seats, to cover up the half inch thick sound deadening felt which hardly looks like a finish. While sussing out the job, I was looking for positions to place the poppers, and discovered the original factory fitted buttons buried under the felt. presumably this means that the felt was fitted at the Jennings works, and that they must have carpeted over it when they did the conversion. Certainly doesn't look like a DIY job.

So I bought two metres of black expanded vinyl, some heavy duty poppers, and 20gm of industrial grade superglue.

First job was to remove the seats, cut out some rectangles of vinyl, and lay them out. The heavy lump of steel in the placcy bag stops them moving around while I'm measuring.

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When I bought the hatch rubber seal last year, I got the kind with a wide flap that I can tuck the vinyl under, hiding the edge.

When cut out, the pieces under the seat look like this.

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I punched the holes using a sharpened piece of copper tube, and as I don't have an industrial sewing machine, the edges are turned over and superglued. Again, the weight comes in handy, and the glue goes off quicker if the weight is warmed up.

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I was mighty pleased with the superglued edges. Much neater and flatter than sewing, and impossible to pull apart. Only works on the back of the vinyl though. Just peels off the front.

Poppers were fixed with the original self tappers to the body, and a few extras added.

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Just not quite wide enough to cover the edge of the blue paint! And I'll paint the seat hinges black next time I've got the black paint out.

Then the fiddly little strip along the back of the engine cover.

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The seat belts, some connectors and the engine cover toggles have to be taken off to fit this bit. You can see the edge tucked under the hatch seal here.

Next the engine hatch. It's areally awkward shape, and there are bound to be some tucks at the back, but they don't shout at you due to their position.

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The vinyl was turned over the metal, and superglued on the inside edge of the cover. I made some plastic clips to hold it for the half minute that the superglue takes to go off, because I found if I held it with my fingers, they ended up firmly glued in place :eek:

Then I made up a "stuff tray" with some wood to match the dash, and lined the ply base with a bit of left over vinyl.

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Even if I do say so myself, it all looks proper smart, so we took the van to the local vehicle trimmer to get a quote to do the seats and door cards in blue and cream. All booked in for several weeks' time. (he's a busy man, and very, very good). Fairly obviously, more piccies to come when they're done.
 
very smart...i did mine recently or at least the front engine cover but used campervan 4 way felt with contact adhesive. Looks great but won't be as long lasting as yours as feet rub there... Going to use the same stuff to do the cab roof front and the panel at the front.

I also used under bonnet sound proofing under the engine lid and engine cover...the sound difference is very noticeable

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Nice job:cool:
I seem to remember there was a factory option for additional soundproofing when the Perky was fitted so probably actually in there when the chassis-cab was delivered to the Jennings works.
 
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