Theres life in the old dog yet

ok, another few hours in, the valves have started to be lapped - the seats were bad but didnt need re-cutting.

decided to tackle the leaking core plug behind the fuel pump - luckily looking through the inspection window on the fuel pump I had some marks to act as my reference point.

there are two nuts and an allen bolt holding the fuel pump on, the top nut and allen bolt are easy enough - however the other nut underneath the pump is a git, the only way i could get a spanner on it was to remove the oil filter and then kneel straddling the engine and reach down and under the pump

also there isnt enough clearance to get the nut off straight away, you have to undo it as much as you can - then break the pump joint which then gives enough room to then get the nut off.

the core plug was rotten - I went to tap a screwdriver through it and the whole bloody thing fell into the block - I could feel it with my finger but couldnt get it out. having a good feel about I am happy that it cant work round the system as its too big - and it now has a big hole in it so shouldnt effect water flow too much.

getting the new plug in was just as much fun - I used the socket method - however i had about 4 inches in which to swing my hammer - it really didnt want to go in - I even gave the hole a really good clean out and rub round with emery to get it perfectly smooth -

guess what - over an hour of tappy tappy tappy - f^@k, tappy tappy tappy f@*k and it finally gave in and went in

fuel pump back on - still aligned thankfully, oil filter back on

so tomorrow I will be trying out my new ball joint splitter - have been watching some you-tube videos on it

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
Lee you're a hero[^] For a guy who didn't know what a ball joint splitter was you are doing a fine impression of a good old fashioned mechanic[8D]

th_IMAG0033.jpg

How refreshing
 
had a good long look today - I will have to lift the engine a little if theres any chance of getting this sump off - I am tempted to try the rebuilt head first to see if I can get away with just that until after august, this should give me time to rig some sort of frame to lift the engine.

on another note, I popped the radiator into the specialist this morning - I got 1 pace into the door before he exclaimed "thats a bloody commer rad!

its worth noting how much access you get to the engine when you remove the rad - especially for the engine mounts (which need changing)

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
quote:
Originally posted by Panky

Lee you're a hero[^] For a guy who didn't know what a ball joint splitter was you are doing a fine impression of a good old fashioned mechanic[8D]

th_IMAG0033.jpg

How refreshing



I can vouch that he actually looks like one, popped his head over the gate to borrow some tools, covered in head to toe with diesel grease and oil. He's a proper looking spanner monkey!:D

th_SAM_3673.jpg
 
thanks for the socket extensions John.

split the ball joints on the track rods - pulled them clear, took the starter motor off, took all the bolts off the sump and dropped it down, it bloody fouled on the relay lever - even with the ball joint on the other end popped - so I had to take the whole relay lever assembly off (which by the way had the stiffest tightest bolts ever known to man)

tried again, the sump was now fouling on the grease nipple on the suspension joint just below - so close but the oil pump was stopping me from manoeuvring round and off. I tried everything - in the end i went for my camera to get a snap to post on here for advice, so i got back under and went to hold the sump in the right position to photograph - and bugger me if it didnt fall off.

so as John says im filthy as a coal miner , just had a pre-bath wash in the utility room sink (wasnt allowed near the kitchen) - now for a cold beer and a hot bath





The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
I know you said you didn't have the facilities to take the engine out but it's so much easier in the end. I've not long re-buit Harvey's in situ - never again.
All that apart you are still the man[8D]

th_IMAG0033.jpg

How refreshing
 
woke up with a sore shoulder today - think I will have a day off - but did get a nice big 1 1/2" socket for turning the engine over by hand

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
the big end bearings had quite a lot of meat left - but were very badly scored - glad I changed the oil and put a modern oil filter in now.

any tips on getting the cylinder liners out without removing the crank?

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
That was a quick day off;)
Not sure if it would work but they may jack out useing a piece of steel tube, blanked off at one end and drilled for a heavy piece of stud, size the tube slightly bigger than the liner this would fit on top side of the block. Then a thick strong back that is sized slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the liner underneath. The stud would join them together with a nut at either end, tighten the stud nuts up and pull the liner out:)

th_IMAG0033.jpg

How refreshing
 
Im going to get the big micrometers from work - there seems to be a fair amount of wear on the pistons - Im hoping they have taken the brunt of things and that new pistons may fit in the existing liners (within 0.006") but I would like to change the liners if i can especially as they are supposed to sit a few thou above the head but they are about 1/4mm below the block surface

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
quote:
Originally posted by Navyreg1970

any tips on getting the cylinder liners out without removing the crank?
The machine shop pressed my holed sleeve out of my Kent block, but as Panky says pull them out, maybe using kit like this:-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtsVlj3n-OQ&feature=related
 
although you dont get much to locate on - I reckon 1mm all round, will have to machine something to be a smooth sliding fit in the bore - with a 1.75 -2.00mm larger diameter stepped shoulder (with an undercut to remove tool radius) - then shave 2 flats onto the shoulder, drill an oversized hole for the jacking stud then like in the video it should tilt and slide down the bore.

how tight do these tend to be?

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business
 
Looks pretty tight for the first inch or so.
The guy working on this Kawasaki block seems to concur;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG06GxpmWWU
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top