from what im told the hardest part is getting the old one out, my dad said something about tapping a screw driver through the middle to lever it out. then tap new one in. just gotta make sure you dont touch the edges
Dolly Commer Is Here http://66.129.69.181/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6833
Core plugs are dead easy, if you can get to them. Sometimes a screwdriver doesn't offer enough leverage, I ended up using a special tool for the job on one of them - a 3/4" drive long socket extension A little bit of sealent around the edge of the new one and tap it home with a snug fitting socket.
my head is in the ultrasonic bath - and will stay in there until the new valve kit arrives - its amazing what comes off / out in even a short time.
got my trusty feeler gauges out to check the piston clearances in the bores - (all pistons are sat at about halfway)
Im not sure what the figures should be but mine are (look from the rad to the gearbox)
1) gap 0.0195" / 0.495mm
2) gap 0.0180" / 0.457mm
3) gap 0.022" / 0.558mm
4) gap 0.020" / 0.508mm
Does anyone have any experience of what size I should be looking for
I tried to see if I could slip a feeler past the first ring but even the smallest feeler failed so Im hoping thats good news
one thing that might point to lack of compression, - piston / cylinder 3 has the most carbon build up and has the outline of one of the valves on it (faint but visible in the carbon layer on the piston crown)and you can feel its edge with a fingernail. This to me sounds like a stuck valve - this also ties in with the head where cylinder 3's head has a lot of carbon round the valves
No idea about the Perkins but The manual says (for the petrol engine) the piston skirt clearance should be 0.014"/0.0006" measured at the gudgeon pin level. It does sound like you do have some wear going on - at the crown at least:I
The piston must have got a fair old thump from the valve to cause that, maybe an old injury that has been sorted years ago (broken timing chain?) - you would have expected a bent push rod or valve.
all my valve overhaul spares turned up today - along with the fuel filter conversion kit at long last, the head has just come out of 2 days in a boiling hot ultrasonic bath - so valve changes planned for tomorrow. Hoping to get the fuel pump off tonight so I can get the core plug behind it. I have also asked for a price for everything to enable me to pull the pistons for overhaul / replacement. Im in two minds, fix and get the head back on to see if the engine is good enough for the august meet (and do the pistons later) or go for broke and try and get both done in the next month - it would be tight.
Any top tips for working underneath. I havent got a pit - dont have the facilitys to lift the engine - but I have two fairly large metal ramps (probably 10" high) that I could get the front wheels up on - do you think that would be enough? to get access to pull the pistons?
Going to be like a new engine time you have finished with it lee regarding you rad shroud could you post a pic for me please lee[?] i need to know if its same size as the petrols
Going to be like a new engine time you have finished with it lee regarding you rad shroud could you post a pic for me please lee[?] i need to know if its same size as the petrols
Your a brave man doing that outside but your making the right decision, had you put a refurbed head back onto a worn block the chances are the increased compression from the new valves would have blown the piston rings and pressurised the sump and you would be rebuilding the bottom end anyway!
I`m not 100% sure but you may need a dial guage to retime the diesel pump after its refitted.
Good luck
A little bit of sealent around the edge of the new one and tap it home with a snug fitting socket.
