Theres life in the old dog yet

oh and a thermostat to replace the one that wasnt there

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god knows how much labour would have been charged by the garage to do the work if i hadnt done it myself - It helps to have a huge heated ultrasonic bath at work as well

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£400 may sound a fair old wedge at first but that's a lot of kit for your money:)

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How refreshing
 
i think its definitely cheaper than buying in dribs and drabs in the long run - you would pay more for a recon engine - and you couldnt guarantee how extensive that re-con was.

Hopefully I will be able to drive the Dog - confident in the state of play of all the components of the engine, this overhaul should hopefully see the van right for years (famous last words etc)

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quick update,
couldnt do anything this weekend as I had my mother staying and Charlotte banned me from disappearing out to the van

however tonight I got the new pistons in, big ends torqued up - definitely much tighter fit in the bores now and oil is clinging nicely to the deglazed bores
head gasket on - head on - torqued up (who else finds it incredibly tempting to go for another half a turn after the torque wrench clicks - I didnt give in but boy was I tempted)
rocker gear on - slackened off the tappet nuts ready for setting up the tappets tomorrow
started stripping a thread on one of the rocker support block stud threads - luckily sticking an extra washer on allowed me to tighten up on a better section of thread

thinking forward to trying to get the sump back on, I think sticking the front piston at TDC might help immensely - lesson learnt from trying to get it off

hoping to get a start before the weekend - even if I put the steering back together afterwards

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a quick question....

the perkins manual gave a head torque setting of 81NM (60 lbft)
this figure is based on the copper type head gaskets that were in use in the 70's
One of my fitters at work who spent much of his life as a mechanic reckons that modern composite type head gaskets with the metal inserts (like I have just fitted) dont really need the tighten up after 1000 miles as required in the manual.
he also recommends adding 5NM to the torque setting to compensate for the modern type of gasket

any views on this anyone?

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quote:
Originally posted by Navyreg1970

a quick question....

the perkins manual gave a head torque setting of 81NM (60 lbft)
this figure is based on the copper type head gaskets that were in use in the 70's
One of my fitters at work who spent much of his life as a mechanic reckons that modern composite type head gaskets with the metal inserts (like I have just fitted) dont really need the tighten up after 1000 miles as required in the manual.
he also recommends adding 5NM to the torque setting to compensate for the modern type of gasket

any views on this anyone?

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A tighten up once its to running temperature will suffice with sintered gaskets.

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
ok - everything is back together,
I have vented the fuel system - everything is primed etc.

the engine turns over - but not even a hint of ignition

I have fuel coming from the injector lines - but not huge amounts

im flummoxed



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no carb - its diesel, and start you bast**d does nothing either.

have had enough for today - will have a look tomorrow

sneaky feeling I havnt set my tappets right

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Oh, no! what a dissappointment:( ...really hope it is something simple and this time tommorrow you have good news:)

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''COMMER'EnSayThat''
 
can someone remind me about the valve crossover point for the tappets - so I can rule out setting them incorrectly, i thought its the point where the exhaust valve is closing - and the inlet valve just starts to open - am i right?

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It's more accurate to follow the adjustment order in the manual, e.g. adjust no 1 exhaust with no 4 exhaust fully open ect. ect. But I'm not sure if it tells you in the Diesel manual.

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that matches what my mechanic chum at work said this morning,the diesel manual says to get 1 at valve overlap and then do both tappets on 4 etc.
the options he has suggested include yours Martin - also he suggests doing cylinder by cylinder - setting 1 inlet with the exhaust fully open, exhaust with the inlet fully open... etc.

It sounds like I havent done it quite right and as a result am not getting any compression.

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