The Snail

Thanks, MOT was back in the summer and all went well (ish).

Spent he weekend taking the engine covers off and radiator out. Keen to nail few issues.

Being indecisive about oil coolers, I've got one off an aeroplane that looks kind of funky (if this kind of thing get you excited...) but it is quite small (though deep), i'd be tempted to mount it in snail's 'mouth' with some fancy (but perfectly aged) aeroquip fittings. The alternative is I fit this regular 13 row Mocal affair just below the radiator out of sight, with a bit of ally to blast some more air towards it.

I'll ponder further at the weekend.
 

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Very nice:cool: But a bike rad in the heater return works well and doesn't over-cool the system - works well on Harvey:)
 
As you've got the rad out, you could just get an uprated core installed. Your thermostat would still be 100% effective. No modifications to design..
 
Hi thanks for that. The rad had an uprated core fitted a few years ago, I've also got an 82 degree thermostat and an electric fan. I also jet washed the water jackets when I rebuilt the engine (it was amazing how much crud was in there). I don't have any overheating issues at the moment. What i do have is a drop in oil pressure after a long run. Most of my journeys in the van involve an hour our so at full chat on the motorway followed by another hour in a traffic jam, on hot days the oil pressure drop is more pronounced.

I have fitted an oil temp gauge but the sender is faulty and it’s never worked properly, I plan to swap the sender over to a spare and see if this works.

So at the moment I am assuming my oil is getting pretty hot, thinning and therefore causing the oil pressure drop. Hopefully a bit more flow on the oil cooler will help this.

Of course a change in oil type might also make things better, I’m using Halfords classic which I’m still not sure about.

I vaguely recall something on the sunbeam alpine forum about dipsticks – the hunter type engine having a different length dip stick to counter the canted over nature of the way the engine was mounted – and if you fit these ‘vertically’, as in a Commer / Alpine, you risk over filling with oil which will make it run hot. I’ve checked extensive dip stick collection (well, all three of them) and there are all the same so I’m not sure if there is any truth in this or not.

Really I just need to get the oil temp sender fixed and do some experimentation.
 
That's interesting as Harvey has an Arrows series Rapier engine fitted. Best way to check is to fill with the recommended amount of oil then see what it shows on the dipstick and mark it as appropriate.
 
I saw you heading London bound on the m3 in this a last year just past Basingstoke, Made my day seeing it.
 
i must almost have been home!

Been slowingly making progress, I've stripped the cab out:


Fitted a timing chain cover with an oil seal i picked up at last years sunbeam alpine spares day


Cleaned and cleaned the engine using a packet of baby wipes - which seem to be better than white spirit / gunk at doing the job

Replaced a few suspect hoses:


Changed the oil temp sensor to a capillary version - was quite please to win all the bits i needed for £6.50 on ebay.


And spent ages moving the oil cooler:


Still a few jobs to do, mostly around rerouting the water pipes, rebuilding the heater, sorting out engine breathing (venting), then its on to sound proofing and carpet.
 
cab done, MOT passed, summer coming!
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oh and heater box rebuilt
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with an off lever

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this fits under the dash and allows me to turn the heating on and off without undoing my seatbealt, a revelation...
 
OOoo thanks! That 4 way stretch looks amazing.

I've been looking at sound deadening material - what didn't you like about this particular product?
 
its is so sticky it is quite hard to handle in large pieces - it tends stick to your fingers and tear. Best plan on covering it with something else, hence the 4-way stretch if you are puting it anywhere visable. I'm also not convinced on how sound insulating it actually is (though i did only use the 6mm version) when compared to the old school felt stuff that smells of wet dog.

I used regular sound deadening pads on all the engine covering panels, this is good stuff and easy to form with a heat gun.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-OEM-Sp...hash=item43e0ad239c:m:m1H-n87vWSSGvF-QibYvCLA

I think when i finally get the door seals to seal I'll notice the biggest reduction in noise (apart from turning the engine off / stereo down...)

Been busy studying the Kermit buid thread - i'm trying to work out how to best fit telescopic shockers to the rear axle at the mo. I was all set to weld them to the back of the axle as this would have allowed me plenty of space to mount a land rover discovery rear anti roll bar to the front (old shock mountings) but moving the handbrake cable arrangement wasn't ideal. They are now on the front. Just need to swap the axles over now and weld in the top mounts.
 
Well know by builders that By far the best way to reduce noise is to block all holes and gaps, this is where majority of sound comes from. Once they're all blocked (the 4 way is v good at that round things like engine cowel) then do more sound proofing. I've used 4 way on the outside of the cowel and the the thick felt matting inside my engine bay (black on one side and biscuit colour the other), you need to use heat proof contact adhesive the stick it - this makes a huge difference in the cab. Electric fan also helps a fair bit, much of the noise is from the mechanical one spinning all the time.

This helps reduce heat in the cab also...mine runs at halfway on temp gauge with all this but I have the 82 oC thermostat and also have the whole inside engine completely blasted of gunk and casting sand so v clean.
 
thanks jim, mine is a PA so already has a rear handbrake setup.

have just ordered some of this to help seal the gaps around the doors

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-14-12m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

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slowly getting there
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-14-12m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
also made a minor improvement to the brightness of the rear lights
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4M-14-12m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
before - lots of wasted light:

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with some reflectors glued on - makes quite a difference

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