Theres life in the old dog yet

from the perkins manual as long as I crank by hand to the right position - I can remove with the timing marks in view, and reassemble so they still match - and hopefully as I am removing just to do the core plug then put it straight back in I shouldnt move anything

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quote:
Originally posted by Navyreg1970

i need to find the two bits of it, they are in my box of bits

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thanks lee;) need to know asap:)

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1980 perkins diesel spacevan
 
ok heres a couple of pics of the fan cowling (sorry still off the van)

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latest spanner turning update, have dug my burrow under the van so I can comfortably lie under the sump - next question, if I undo the steering arm bolts where they join right under the sump will I be able to push the bolts up far enough to swing the steering arms clear - or will I need to jack up the engine from somewhere solid - like where the engine joins the gearbox? - if I can do this will there be room to drop the sump pan out - it looks tight. I can see that I have to remove the starter motor, to get to that I have removed the fuel filter (plus I now have the new assembly that takes modern filters)

good job i did, the metal bit the filter attached to had a whopping crack in it, and the fuel return line from the injector pump had a normal bolt where it should have had a banjo - god knows what thats done to everything.

I have also started removing the fuel pump - disconnecting all the pipes - and I have taken the inspection port off - to see the alignment marks, luckily theres a mark lined up with the circlip next to the stamped "H" which I can use for alignment - but footys just starting and I have germany in the sweep

no doubt there will be more to report tomorrow

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If you disconnect both track rod ball joints and the ball joint on the other end of the relay lever there should be enough room to drop the sump. Hope it doesn't rain and you end up with a pond:I Be careful the sides of your burrow don't start collaping with the weight of the van.

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How refreshing
 
Make sure you use a ball joint splitter rather than a hammer to separate the track rod ends and relay ball joint if you want to use them again!

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You shouldn't need to take it out of the crossmember, just disconnect the ball joints and swing it out of the way - works on a petol engine:I

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How refreshing
 
its a fork type of device that splits ball joints by placing the fork between the ball joint and arm and tightening a bolt which pushes on the end of the ball joint or track rod end and pushes it free without damaging anything, basic tools are just a fork type tool that you hammer the end to force the joints apart, this type can still damage joints.

Bloody Commer`s!
 
My old splitter was knackered so I bought one from Halfords when I was doing Harvey's engine, didn't hold out much hope in it being any good but I was very pleasantly surprised - it work brilliantly:)

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_216931_langId_-1_categoryId_255216

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How refreshing
 
thinking back to the fuel return from the CAV pump to the fuel filter - having a plain bolt instead of a Banjo bolt, I think that may well have contributed to my overfuelling, and possibly if left overnight the injectors weeping into the cylinders

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.... just got the valves out of the head - lots of carbon - probably because there were no valve seals fitted!

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