The Snail

When I rewired the snail i left the original Lucas blocking diode in place. Juice comes from the alternator to this diode, splits, goes through my crazy aeroplane twin ammeter thing and onto the batteries to charge them. The idea of the blocking diode is that juice can't flow between the batteries and all the goodies (stereo and interior lights) can't drain the main battery.

My uncle (who claims to have invented electrotrickery) reckons that the blocking diode (which is actually two diodes) isn't the way forward as they cause a minor voltage drop that doesn't help charging.

the blocking diode in place.

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Most modern split charging systems avoid diodes and just use a relay. I decided to switch to this approach - but as is my way, make it unecessarily complicated.

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I found a system off a boat on ebay. This has the advantage that instead of a crude relay wired into the ignition it actually senses the volts and only switches on the charge to the leisure battery when there is charge to be had.

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good thing i haven't been drinking or none of that would make sense.

this did nothing to fix my problem of two flat batteries, but did waste almost two hours...

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No wonder i didn,t get any presents, santa was buggering about with his charging system :D

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
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Hi Sunbeamsam.

Lovely van you've got.

What does the "a lumassa" above the snail on your van mean? And what language is it?



Mattmonkey and Claire

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Pootle Power !!!
 
Chap that bought the van new (dec 1965 but decided to wait until jan to pick it up hence a D reg) was an italian living in coventry. He used it every summer to drive to italy (across the alps! hence why he specified the low diff). I've got a little log book of most of the journeys he made in it. I'm guessing a lumassa is snail in italian.
 
It's Piemontese for snail.

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If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Peggy's got an MOT !!! (not a lie)
 
It's nice to know the history behind a van. I'm told the first journey ours did when it left the factory was through France and Spain and into Portugal. Not a trip i'd undertake now, unless i had a Commeracer or Martin Maltas in the tool box to keep it running.

Mattmonkey and Claire

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Pootle Power !!!
 
Well, with the alpine away at SPL being chemically stripped the car/van budget has been somewhat decimated. This isn't all bad as it actually gives me a chance to apply some of my good (and not so good) back log of ideas and parts.

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First up is was replacing the window rubber that I bought of martin last year.

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Thought I'd warm up on the rear ones before doing the 'big un'. They came out easy enough and with a bit of washing up liquid and string went back in easy enough.

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Second one took a little longer, but it was sunny - and i'd been drinking. still pleased enough with the result.

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With the screen and trim out it was good to see the stories i'd been given about the van being finished over Christmas had been true - found the makers initials and date under the dash pad

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bit of new matt black paint to tidy it up plus some hole drilled on the inside of the peak to allow future rust proofing.

I didn't use and goo to put it back in place (sorry no photo) but it has seated fairly well. Waiting for some rain to see how well it has sealed.

Next up was the servo (ratsport, circa 2008). Thank for your various feedback as to possibe locations. I opted for just under the passenger's feet, held in place by left handdrive MC mounts.

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I held it in place at the correct angle using a plastic box then used light angle iron to make the brackets.

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I then used some spare braided hoses to connect it up. Normally this would have warranted a test drive, but i opted for a beer and to rebuild the master cylinder.
(
For some reason the damned thing was quite resistant to go back together. I had another beer.

45 minutes later it still wasn't happening. switched to tea and realised that i'd been trying to use a 0.75 inch kit to rebuild a 0.70 cylinder....

all sorted now. Just need to make a deflector to protect the servo from wheel splash (similar to that that protects the clutch an brake MCs).


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Time to fix the alpine

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Nice work Sam - replacing the rear windows is on my list for next weekend, you make it sound easy - I'll get the beers chilled[8D]

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Good work. Dunno if it's just me, but I think that hand written date on the dash is an awesome bit of history to go with the van.
 
The windscreen leaked (badly) so it is now well and truly glued in with sikaflex (which cleans off very neatly with white spirit).

the servo in wing spray deflector (now sprayed in underseal)

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This [:0]

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means this[^]

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I've also fitted adjustable spax front shocks (photos to follow). This combo has improved handling no end (now just scary instead of really really scary).

This is the cold air intake hole that I mentioned in earlier posts but never got around to photoing (normally has a pipercross sock on it)

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that feeds the single stromberg i'm still running (Commeracer - had a chance to look at the quad carb manifold yet? I'm still game:)).

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Great mods, but I've heard bad things about cutting springs:I but I respect your knowledge on the subject, love to know the spec for the shocks.
I think I'll make me one of those deflectors for the brake and clutch masters - they do get grubby:I

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And relax
 
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Found the pictures of the shocks - the ones that came off the van, my new spax ones and speedys supplied item.

For several months i'd been searching ebay for spax, koni, adjustable shocks etc - auction only, sort buy price etc.

I'd measured the ones fitted on my van and found an action for a set of 4 used shocks of unknown origin - 2 of which were a perfect match for the van - £32 thank you very much.

I tested a new speedys shock by counting how many seconds it took for my body weight (inc 3x cans of cider) to compress - 6 seconds. The adjustable shocks seemed to be adjustable between 3 and 14 seconds (this wasn't a totally objective comparison as by this point i had had another can of cider and put on a jumper).

I decided to set the shocks at around the 8 second mark. I dropped the front suspension by trimming a coil off the springs, which probably equated to 2 inches (see previous post). I haven't done anything to the back as this was already quite low.

The following day I did laps of the nearest big roundabout and adjusted the shocks up another couple of clicks.

What a difference.

here's the only numbers i can find on the shocks

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Yes they were yellow, but this was the only spare paint i could find when i was cleaning them up.

I'm guessing someone is now going to tell me they came off a 2CV and should no way be used on a commer...

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I too have heard bad things about trimming springs - but it was only one coil (bad things happen if you cut it so much that the spring goes 'loose' when bouncing up) and Snail isn't a high speed race car (yet). The cut end is well smoothed and coated with lots of copper grease.

Once I get the ride height right i'll consider getting some custom springs done, but still playing at the moment.

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She looks all the better for having a coil lopped off. Would be good to find out the spec of those units, hopefully those markings might mean something to Spax
 
A most scientific approach[^] I myself would have used lager (don't need the jumper:I) I think I might be doing an ebay search soon:p
The problem with lowering Harvey is that he sits very sprightly on his rear springs, I guess they must be heavy duty ones, but I do have a P5 axle around and flipping that might be interesting[}:)]
 
Glad the servos been put to good use.

Id like to copy you on the shocks (it is the most sincere form of flattery after all:I)

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
Looking good there Sam [8D]
Your manifold is half done, its on the back burner at the moment, but scream if you need it sooner ;)

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"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
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