with the paint scrapped of the top this has combined to make it much brighter
The Snail
- Thread starter sunbeamsam
- Start date
with the paint scrapped of the top this has combined to make it much brighter
I cut one side off this box which for some reason took 3 cutting discs and pressed it onto the roof spin to help keep it straight. Then stuck wood tape on it to make it look less obvious
S0updragon
Well-Known Member
Looks great!
thanks guys.
an out of sync update as i've been pretty rubbish at doing them recently.
I drove the van!!!
1. weaker brake servo has helped make the brakes a bit less grabby
2. New diff has sorted the gear ratios - now only engage 6th at about 50, a great improvement on 30... speedo also says something closer to the truth
3. The noise / power delivery from the carbs is amazing - lower smooth idle makes gentle driving much easier but when i put my foot down it roars straight up to 60 (i wasnt brave enough to go much faster on a first run)
Issue to fix now is that it running really rich throughout the rev range (except idle). I'd drilled the main jet out to 1.6mm as that's what people on the internet reckon is a good place to start, i tried dropping the needles a few rings to make it leaner but that didn't make much of a difference. This morning i fitted 1.45mm main jets, this now has full throttle going lean, not massively so, but part throttle is still very rich.
I've been reading up on bike carbs so have ordered some leaner slow jets (#10s to replace the #15s), unfortunately these will probably take a couple of days to turn up. Plan is to fit these and to drill the mains out to 1.50 - mostly as i don't have a 1.55 drill bit - and to lift the needles back up again.
hopefully i'll be getting close then. there is of course the risk that i am basing all this of a £10 AFG gauge that could be talking bollocks and that it was spot on to start with.
an out of sync update as i've been pretty rubbish at doing them recently.
I drove the van!!!
1. weaker brake servo has helped make the brakes a bit less grabby
2. New diff has sorted the gear ratios - now only engage 6th at about 50, a great improvement on 30... speedo also says something closer to the truth
3. The noise / power delivery from the carbs is amazing - lower smooth idle makes gentle driving much easier but when i put my foot down it roars straight up to 60 (i wasnt brave enough to go much faster on a first run)
Issue to fix now is that it running really rich throughout the rev range (except idle). I'd drilled the main jet out to 1.6mm as that's what people on the internet reckon is a good place to start, i tried dropping the needles a few rings to make it leaner but that didn't make much of a difference. This morning i fitted 1.45mm main jets, this now has full throttle going lean, not massively so, but part throttle is still very rich.
I've been reading up on bike carbs so have ordered some leaner slow jets (#10s to replace the #15s), unfortunately these will probably take a couple of days to turn up. Plan is to fit these and to drill the mains out to 1.50 - mostly as i don't have a 1.55 drill bit - and to lift the needles back up again.
hopefully i'll be getting close then. there is of course the risk that i am basing all this of a £10 AFG gauge that could be talking bollocks and that it was spot on to start with.
evidence!
Shame the tracker won’t give me 0-60 times
Great stuff, love that set up and amazing it working so well already...and quick!
S0updragon
Well-Known Member
Excellent work. Well done. Do you have a local metal engineer/fabricator that would let you use a 1.55mm drill bit?
i bit the bullet and bought one which turned up on saturday but annoyingly the new pilot jets still haven't arrived. Given i've now taken the carbs off atleast half a dozen times i've also decided to fit a quick fit dry fuel connector in the fuel line to the carbs to make things easier and to change the way the choke cable connects up. I should be able to take the carbs off in less than 10mins when that is all done!
meanwhile i've made two other mods.
1) i've fitted an electric fuel pump near the tank and connected this to a switch on the dash. this means i can prime the carbs more easily and it also acts a spare should the mechanical one fail (again) - of course if the diaphragm splits it will just fill the sump full of petrol, but let's hope that doesn't happen.
2) instead of remaking or reinforcing the roof side panels i've added two bars - made from period Desmo roof bars - which take the weight of the panels and will hopefully stop/correct the warping. i only intend to fit them over the damp winter months when the van is in storage.
meanwhile i've made two other mods.
1) i've fitted an electric fuel pump near the tank and connected this to a switch on the dash. this means i can prime the carbs more easily and it also acts a spare should the mechanical one fail (again) - of course if the diaphragm splits it will just fill the sump full of petrol, but let's hope that doesn't happen.
2) instead of remaking or reinforcing the roof side panels i've added two bars - made from period Desmo roof bars - which take the weight of the panels and will hopefully stop/correct the warping. i only intend to fit them over the damp winter months when the van is in storage.
i made the fuel pump mounts out of a bit of polycarbonate i had lying around and heated it to bend it. its mounted on the now redundant rear shocker mount. i didn't use the bike pump (top pic) in the end and fitted a low press facet one instead (bottom pic).#
had had two cans of cider by the time i got around to making the labels...
had had two cans of cider by the time i got around to making the labels...
oh, and fitted 8 metres of new seals to the pop top.
You've got a calendar, haven't you?
JJ Autosleeper
Member
I am just looking at (Woolies) options for new seals for my Pop Top roof (Autosleeper) which looks the same as yours. What sections did you use/find that worked? If you can let me know that may save some time ordering samples?
Pictures added below.
Thanks.
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