The Snail

I am actually only using a single [:0] 150 Stromberg at the mo.

I have a sets of both CD and CDs, not sure which ones she'll end up with (will check when i get home), though have discovered i'll need the twin choke cable from a triumph stag. If i can ever get anytime off work... plan is to fit the twins and get it rolling roaded - I'll post the details of how i get on and what needles it end up with.

Planning an airbox and cold air intake.
 
sam I have an interesting application on the iphone which accurately gauges 0-60 times and 1/4 mile! along with G force and HP estimates :D:D

Would be happy to play - do you think Lasham will let us on the runway?
 
Thanks Sam

Thats interesting. Why do you need the cable from a Snag? What benefit will this bring? (I'm pretty sure the Snag 175 Stombergs will never fit, so why the requirement of their cable?)

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
With a newly built engine and a few other variables i was quite keen to keep twin carb dramas for another day - that's why its only got the single strombee on at the mo. The twins should happen over the next few weeks.

Twin CD use a normal single choke cable (there is a spindle extension linking the two carbs), CDS (well at least the ones i've got) need the chokes operating with separate cables. Originally there would have been a funny twin cable, these don't seem to be available anymore. A secondhand 'snag' unit looks like it will do. We'll see...
 
Hey Sam,

Would you recommend changing to the longer Rapier box, or sticking with the original Commer unit? I'm about to do this engine and gearbox conversion myself, and the gearbox in my van at the moment is worn. I can either swap the input shaft out of my van into the later box, or mod the linkage to accomodate the longer (and angled) gearbox. What do you think?

Mike.
 
i'm too scared of gearboxes to be swapping imput shafts over - but it would make for a neater conversion. Certainly was a hassle making new gearbox mounts / prop/ linkages. Might just be easier to get one of the 'right' vertically mounted gearboxes in the first place - they come up on ebay all the time. I was only so keen to use my one as i knew it had been rebuilt - and i didn't know what an arse it would be to fit until after i'd started...

would be interested to hear how you get on.
 
Cheers Monkeyman - always wondered how they did the 'twizzle' thing. Think this might be the way forward - however i'm having a slight change of heart!

Just spent the week working on the snail, started by ringing the rolling road people to book her in - and they were fully booked for the next three weeks. grr. So have been doing other jobs.

First up was the cooling (again...) took the rad out and had it recored (£130) at Bagshot rads - which is in Odiham, not Bagshot - he said my old rad had blocked cores and was probably the source of my woes. He didn't have any of the right old style core to put in so put something more modern and more efficient in - which suits me.

l_9937778fe8c39c8f5a5823d81bce2fad.jpg


Couldn't get the fan to fit on the inside so its back on the outside. Engine temp is back down where it should be now (80-90'C). Couldn't get the new bottom rad hose i'd bought from speedys to seal properly - seemed slighty too big - ended up reusing the old one.

Next up was fitting an oil temp guage - to give me some more things to worry about! Holbay engine (those fitted to Rapier H120s and Hunter GLSs) have a little oil temp sender in the filter housing:

l_57ef75e248591eb056360889abb803a2.jpg


My cunning plan was to copy this.
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ignore the wiring diagram - that's me trying to work out how to make a latching relay to control the OD.

l_eddcf24dd68f768ae2909852c4d3cc1d.jpg


Did and ebay search for 'oil temp guage' and bought one from a Landy for £3. then searched for 'oil temp sender' which was less than a tenner. Already had a 3/8 BSP tap - but again these are normally only a few quid on ebay.

Guess you could use a normal temp guage and sender - can't think why not?

l_d81973bd459e5999b4eca161f7db46a1.jpg


Stuck it in with some hardening goo.

The other thing that screws into this block is the oil pressure regulator - it opens at a predefined pressure (40psi) - they do wear or become gooed up - opening at lower pressures, which isn't great. Worth taking it off and giving it a clean (soak it in petrol) then test with a screwdriver tip to see if the plunger moves smoothly. New ones can be got from:

BSAC on 01775670188, that used to stand for the Berkshire Sunbeam Alpine Centre but now he's moved to Spalding the name has changed. He (John Hayter) has no website, only does engine spares, but if you ring him he does have a catalogue. Its worth noting that he is the wholesaler that supplies most of the the rootes spares dealers - and is considerably cheaper.

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Wiring is straight forward - take a wire from the sender and stick it on the guage (it doesn't seem to matter which side) and then take one from the fuel guage (the regulated side) and jobs a 'good un'. Something else to worry about!

Got a bit carried away wiring in a second battery. The voltmeter now has a switch at the bottom so i can see what battery number 2 is upto.

l_3e38ba888a3b22901b13e64683ab1af0.jpg


Got carried away on ebay looking for an ammeter and ended up getting this one off a plane... But it does tell me whats going on, was a bugger to wire in - and i'm sure i'd mounted it straighter than that - must be trick photography!

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Reversing lights are on but not wired in yet. The switch on the gearbox also seems to engage when i'm in 4th - which isn't ideal. Might wire them to a switch to battery 2, as they'd be quite useful when camping at night...

Anyway, she did well on a 300mile loop to South Wales, survived some nasty traffic jams and gave me a huge sense of smugness when it rained and rained and watched my chums suffering in their soggy tents - more tea? love some.
 
interesting stuff - am about to wire in a reversing light for Bessie so think it's a great idea to take it from leisure battery for camping light - top notch thinking[8D] consider your idea well & truly pinched:I:D.

Am about to plumb in a 2nd leisure battery too - love your double voltmeter, quite a find:)

Glad your trip to South Wales went well, nice to know of another set of Rootes wheels on Welsh soil[^]

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
cool stuff [8D] you need an artificial horizon and altimeter on there as well :D

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off no.3"
 
I think an oil cooler would be a useful addition to the commer engine as well..The auto has a cooler for the box afront of the radiator, i think one of these could be utilised for the cooling system even if it is fed through a sandwich plate between the filter
 
Next up was fitting an oil temp guage - to give me some more things to worry about! Holbay engine (those fitted to Rapier H120s and Hunter GLSs) have a little oil temp sender in the filter housing:

That is handy info...thanks. I have a bit of a gauge fetish too, and was considering running a capillary sender from the sump...that is much neater

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
Sam
Got any pics on the Snag twin choke installation. I'm hoping I can just copy yours and save myself lots of head scratching :I

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
The old snag jokes again I see !

Us owners 'affectionately' refer to their Stag as 'the money pit' ;)

Poor quality control in the factory and several key design flaws and not helped by shameless quality of some crucial repro parts :(

A great concept poorly executed is about the best summary I've read.

But we still love 'em [8D]
 
We've recently had our Commer radiator recored too. We specifically requested and agreed the original core type with 3 rows but got supplied a modern type with just 2 rows of tubes.

After some discussion we rejected this and got it refitted with the agreed original core - so they are available !

As cooling on Stags is a hot topic (excuse the pun !) in the mid 90's the Stag Owners Club ran some measured tests at Gaydon and concluded the original design (similar to the Commer) provided much more stable cooling results than the modern 'efficient' design.

It was suggested that the original core design perhaps provides better cooling in lower airflow scenarios - I guess the airflow on the Commer isn't great either. Also that modern cores are designed to be easier and cheaper to mass produce. Not conclusive though.

The original Commer spec is a 'staggered 3 row' - this link has some pics to help explain ;
http://www.gmradiator.co.uk/?page=faq&v=ftc#half

Whereas modern cores are 'packed construction' and only a 2 row fits the Commer tanks - examples can can be found at ;
http://www.gmradiator.co.uk/?page=faq&v=pc#half

These cores can be obtained and fitted via either Serck Marston or Express Radiators but I guess other suppliers too.

You've got to give respect to a site which still lists Commers [8D]
http://www.gmradiator.co.uk/index.php?page=search&cores_manu=COMMER&radioPTRConv=0&subbutton=Search&sby=sba&st=cores
Even if they list the 'incorrect' 2 row modern alternative :(
 
Many thanks SunbeamSam for the info on mods and the direct parts supplier contact [8D]

Martin, great to hear there's others with a good word about Stags.
After 4 years now we wouldn't be without ours but I guess one day life priorities may mean it has to go. Enjoying it while we can [8D]
 
I love my stag its an early mk1 in red aint used it this year as all its done is rain!! came out the garage for its mot then back in again with its pass cert!!:D
 
Hello all, sorry for the long break since the last update. Was nice to meet many of you at the New Forest Meet - shame about the rain!

The Snail has been going well all summer - done over a 1000 miles now on the new engine. I ended up making a snorkle (in a similar way to Jules, less electric turbo!) so that the carb could breath cold air when idling in traffic.

Had endless problems with the single stromberg. the throttle stop kept virbrating loose, then i couldn't set the idle properly. Turned out the throttle stop screw threads were stripped. Changed carb to an earlier one with an adjustable jet. This seems to run fine but the butterfly struggles to fully shut sometimes. hmm work in progress. supercharged turboed quad throttle bodies can be the only logical solution...

Not sure about this chat on radiators. The automotive industry spends millions trying to coax an ounce more efficiency out of the cars they make. It is beyond me that they've spent so much over the decades making radiators less efficient. The new core i've got is thicker and heavier as it has more tightly packed fins and more cores. This must add up to more surface area and more cooling? though this is all fairly academic as she doesn't run hot anymore - and probably wouldn't have with a standard rad that wasn't blocked up... My hot oil issue was solved by changing the oil from the cheap stuff i'd put in to 'run in' the motor. Anticipating long hot summer days driving up steep mountains i did fit an oil cooler that i had lying around the garage. will post some more photos when it is not raining (june?)

lent the van to the BBC for the opening shots of 'the grammer police'

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/7841165.stm

Next plans include sorting some form of intermittent wiper control.

http://www.smart-screen.co.uk/

or

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=3182 which is cheaper and what i have on the alpine - sure these used to be £15. remote mounted the switch to the dash with a period looking knob[:0]

http://www.jaycarelectronics.co.uk/kits.asp

another dangerous website for those with ideas of playing with electrics!
 
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