The Disc Brake conversion thread

Correct about the Vauxhall's, I would think they would have the same model designation of VT, VX, VY & VZ depending on the year of production. They are the one that look like this.

Holden-Commodore-VT-Series-II-Acclaim-1999-5LR.jpg


but in Sydney a lot look like this.

NSWPoliceVTCommodore.jpg


I would imaging there aren't too may of these at your local wreckers over there, but here they half fill the yard!

If I get a chance I will try and see if I can match a five stud type disc for the standard Commer hub. I reckon late model Toyota Hi-Lux 4x2's would be a good place to start looking, but I'll stick with finishing mine first. There's still a lot to do, I haven't realy looked at brake master cylinder sizing and fitting it in the cramped space under the floor, but for now it's good to be back working on the Van.

Cheers Stephen
 
VXR8[?] Jeremy Clarkson had a little drive of one:)

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-5313744208562832278
 
No rest on this side of the planet!

I was thinking that I better have a look at some other disc options for those of you that want to stay with the Standard Commer hubs before I get mine machined shorter for my 6 stud arrangement as you don't seem to be having much luck. I headed off to the wreckers this morning with some ideas after doing some research during the week hoping that unfortunately came to nothing. I was hoping that the front discs off a late model Toyota Camry might do the job, being five studs and around the same dimensions as my Navara disc’s I though this would be a good place to start. Unfortunately the inside diameter is only 140mm, too small to slip over the Commer hub, bugger! I walked around for a while measuring various thing to no avail until I came across a '95 model RAV4 (Toyota Code SXA10), which looked very promising. They're unusual discs as they are large diameter (302mm) vented, but only 18mm thick and they 8mm more offset than the Navara's. I grabbed one to play with and did some machining and think I might have solved the problem.

There was very little involved and took me around an hour or so to complete one side.

Step 1 Remove all the wheel studs from the Commer hub.

Step 2 The hole in the centre of the RAV4 disc is 62mm, so I opened this up on the lathe to 98mm, which is the size of the drum locating boss on the standard hub.

23102011004.jpg


Step 3 The flange of the Commer hub is just a little too big to slip inside the RAV4 disc. It's so close I think I took of about 1.5mm off on the lathe, but you could grid it off just as easily. Now the Hub sits inside the disc located centrally on the boss.

23102011005.jpg


Step 4 As the RAV4 wheel stud PCD is a different offset rotate the disc so the Commer stud holes are located half way between the RAV's and you can now drill you stud holes through the RAV disc. I have a very old 5/8" that is so worn out, but proved perfect of the job as it didn't remove any if the spline in the hub that hold the wheel studs tight. I drilled one, fitted the stud and bolted it up to stop any movement when drilling the others, once all holes were done I fitted the studs and what you see below is the result.

23102011009.jpg


23102011008.jpg


Step 5 You might want to fit some countersunk screws similar to those used to hold the standard drums to the hubs to keep it all nicely inplace when you remove the wheel.

It was that straight forward. I then grabbed my stub axle, still with my Navara Set-up ply calliper mount fitted to see it lined up. There seems to be plenty of clearance as you can see in the pictures below.

23102011010.jpg


23102011012.jpg


I haven't spent any time on callipers or mounts for this arrangement, as I will now re-focus on completing my 6 stud set-up. I think this RAV adaptation has potential and for those running a van or camper would be a simple and effective upgrade, with the parts readily available from wreckers worldwide. Toyota sold RAV4's everywhere. The discs even have the dimples for ABS sensors if you want to get that serious! As for the RAV's callipers, I think they could be a little bulky and the calliper mounting holes seem too far apart, but I could be wrong. I'll leave that part for someone else to work out. There should be plenty of callipers around to suit as many of the earlier small hatchbacks were fitted with discs around 18-19mm thick. Another advantage that I thought of is for those of you with handbrakes on the front wheels. There seem to be a lot more cars these days fitted with narrow vented rear discs with lever handbrake actuators, so hopefully there's a solution to your problems too.

One thing that will need to be checked is wheel/calliper clearance. As these discs are 305mm in diameter, this may be a conversion that only fits inside 15” alloy wheels or 16” steel wheels, if they exist, so do your homework before you commit.


Have fun,
Cheers Stephen
 
This is an amazing thread and very impressive ....technically a bit over my head, but interesting none the less:):D

''COMMER'EnSayThat''
 
If you don't mind me saying so - this thread is flippin brilliant[8D]

th_DCP_9918.jpg

Summer's well and truly done
 
Hey Paul, how are you getting on with your experiments, you started this lot:)

th_DCP_9918.jpg

Summer's well and truly done
 
Yeh, I was thinking the same myself the other day. I recall making a comment that I was jealous because he was getting ahead of me. Nothing like some friendly competition to get you fired up.

I had a couple of additional thoughts, regarding the Commer/Rav disc set-up. The model after the one that I used the disc off could be a better option, unfortunately they didn't have any of these at the wreckers for me to check, so I sat down and checked some catalogues. The disc is slightly smaller in diameter at 275mm with a 49mm offset and thickness of 25mm. As long as that internal diameter of the disc is big enough to slip over the hub with a minimum of machining you should be right. There will be more calliper options for 25mm thick discs and should give a little more clearance to the wheel, so you might be able to stay with the original steel wheels.

The other thought was that if the RAV disc near enough fits over the front hub flange, it should be close to fitting over the rear axle flange too with a minimum of machining. This is assuming the drum mounting boss is the same front & rear, which would make sense, but something I haven't checked. With a calliper mount welded direct to the axle tube and the right callipers you should now have 4 wheel discs.

You might be wondering why I have gone to the effort with the brakes on my van. Yes better performance and parts availability, but the main reason is that when I got van home I quickly realised that under the rear drums there was nothing, all the shoes, cylinders etc were gone. The chance of getting the bits would have been close zero, so the diff swap happened and the rest has flowed from there. Having never driven the van, as the motor and gearbox was also missing, it has given me a blank canvas, forcing me to look outside the square and to work and develop what I can from what I can lay my hands on at a reasonable price. Hopefully it will eventually become a very useable van that is different to anything else on the road here.

As for my 6 stud set-up, I have now drilled and tapped the hubs for the 6 disc reaining bolts, using 1/2" UNF high tensile bolts. Next is the counterboring in the hubs for recessing the wheel stud heads. I have drawn up a revised calliper mount and forwarded it to get a price to get them profile cut and now awaiting a reply, then I'll get those stub axles shortened to finish it off.

So got enough to keep me busy for the forseable future.

Cheers Stephen
 
Wow some awesome work has been going on since i last came on! Really impressed, i am looking forward to seeing more photos of the progress! It's good seeing the amount of skill on this forum, its a community to be involved with.

Unfortunately i have not been able to make any progress on my setup which is really frustrating. My uni won't let me use the awesome lathes they have (that hardly seem to get used) for my own personal stuff (the technicians have no interest in cars...weirdos) and my own lathe at home just isn't good enough anymore (bit worn out and wobbly).

Added to that, because of my back/leg problem getting worse and the medication i am on, recently i have been unable to safely be in a workshop which is actual torture! And because of my medication, its giving me bad spouts of depression so unfortunately my Commer hasn't been my first priority hence not being on the forum for so long :I It seems that i may begrudgingly have to pay somebody to do some of the brake work for me because of this, so that i can make more progress, but at least it will be another step towards my van getting on the road!

Keep up the good work guys :)
 
Sorry to hear about your ailments Paul, hope things things turn around for you in the near future. I suppose that as you lot over there head towards winter, the work on your vans decreases. This was certainly the case for me during our winter where I got very little done on the van. Now the the better weather combined with daylight saving gives me that few hours after work every day to have a play.

One thing I made a point of during that time was to figure out what changes I wanted and purchased things I needed, like the motor, gearbox and the other fiddly things that take time to track down. It also gave me the time to think about how and what I was going to do first. I have a bunch of ideas and changes I want to experiement with on this project and know it will take time. I also know that I, like all of us I suspect, will continue to be frustrated that it cannot be finished quicker. I suppose that is pleasure we get for all our suffering but for now I take comfort in the fact that the project is at least moving forward in a direction that excites me.

Thanks all for the positive feedback, I am always open to suggestions or new ideas that might help and happy to answer questions if you have any.

Cheers Stephen
 
Suinnyboy, would you mind measuring up the front axle diameter (widest and thinnest parts), i realised that a T25 has taper bearing front hubs so i am wodering if i can find a bearing combination that will fit, unfortunately i am not near my van for another 3 weeks yet!
 
Hi Paul

Bearing codes are LM11949 outer & LM67048 inner

LM67048 Commer PB Inner ID 31.75mm/1.25" OD 59.131mm/2.325"
LM11949 Commer PB Outer ID 19.05mm/0.75" OD 45.237mm/1.779"

Both bearings are about 5/8" thick

The Grease seal ID is 1 7/8"

Sorry for the metric/Imperial thing, not sure how metric you guys are. I fortunately grew up during the change over in the early 70's and learn both, which comes in very handy at times.

The sizes above should be slightly over as the bearing diameters include fitting clearances. I got all my information from the SKF website, which lists all bearings sizes in mm & inches.

I think the actual bearing spacing in the hub is about 3”. The Commers have much longer stub axles than anything I've come across, most were around 2 1/2”, which was the main problem I found with hub swaps. Not sure what a “T25” is so I can’t help you there.

I still think my RAV4 adaptation that I detailed earlier is worth a try for those looking at using the standard Commer hubs. It only leaves calliper and mount to sort out.

Good Hunting!
Stephen
 
You legend, cheers Stephen! No worried on using both standards, i have been forced to recognise both from playing with old cars and machinery!

A T25 is also known as a T3, its a VW from the 80s. It appears from the bearing numbers you gave me, that it is not a viable option though but not to worry!

I have tried to find a RAV4 hub but they all seem to have different bearings to that of a commer (cartridge type) and drive splines in the middle, presumably your one you found was a RWD?

From your bearing numbers i may have found another option though... By 3" bearing spacing, do you mean the distance between then bearings? or the actual length of the stub? If the one i have found fits, it will be awesome for people this side of the pond!
 
Hi Paul

Sounds similar to the problem I had with the Jap 6 stud hubs, bearings are all metric. When we went metric in Australia we did a "soft" conversion in many engineered products, where many Imperial Standards remained the same, just given a metric size ie, all pipe threads are still British Std Pipe Threads, refered to in Metric sizes, so 1/2"BSP = 15mm, 3/4"BSP = 20mm etc. Fortunately it occurs in more things than you expect so you end up with Holden Commodores built in in the 21st century using the same Imperial bearings they used 50years ago, which just happen to be the same bearing sizes used on an old Commer. This is why I looked at the trailer hubs for my 6 stud conversion. Box trailers in this country have and still use the same Imperial LM Bearings with just the stud pattern changing.

The 3" spacing is from centreline to centreline of the bearings. I too considered spacing out the bearings on my six stud hubs initially, but discovered that I ran out of space for the stub axle seal and outer bearing cap to be fitted.

Regarding my RAV4 option, you don't need the RAV4 hub, only the disc rotor and fit it to your original Commer hub after taking about 1-2mm of the Commer hub flange. It then fits neatly inside the RAV4 disc rotor. Check out the picture again, that's my Std Commer hub fitted inside the RAV4 disc rotor

23102011008.jpg


If you have any questions just ask.

Cheers
Stephen
 
Righty thanks to whoever it was that mentioned SD1 rotors, as it got me thinking! According to Rimmer Bros, the SD1 hubs use the same bearings as the Commers, but the bearings centre to centre are 2.8 inches which (excuse the sudden chnage to metric) is a 5mm difference. fingers crossed either they are wrong and its 3", or Stephen is wrong and the commers are 2.8"!

The SD1 hubs will push the wheel out further and the disc mounts behind the hub flange rather than infront like most cars. This should hopefully allow for the brake to sit further back fron the wheel, excluding the need for spacers and longer studs like on my previous setup with Jeep rotors on Commer hubs would have required. The downside to SD1 discs is i have to go to 258mm rather than the mighty 305mm on the jeep rotors!But then smaller discs can always have some 4pots whacked on if needed :)

Stephen, if you could double check your measurements, that would be awesome, and if they match up i will order some parts to try out! I am rather excited now haha!

Regarding the Rav4, i can't find any 2wd front hubs, or vehicles breaking over here :(
 
Hi Paul,

I have included a picture of the front stub axle so you can see for yourself.

CommerStubaxleb.jpg


The tape measure is set up on the centre line of the inner bearing and measures at least 3” closer to 3.25” to the centreline of the outer bearing. The bearings are located correctly on the stub axle, my outer bearing has spun at some time in its life and left a mark where it was located. You can see in the picture that the outer bearing is not located in as far as it could go. This bearing could come in another 8mm before it hits the tapered section, which might help, but would probably need extra washers between the bearing and the locating castellated nut.

Not sure about the SD1 disc/hub arrangement, from memory they were solid disc with a large offset over a long hub. I could be wrong, but think they could bring the disc too far in, making the calliper mount quite tricky. If this is the case, check the inside diameter of the disc to be sure it clears the drum mounting flange and gives you some room for the calliper mount. That size disc should be fine; they obviously managed to stop Rovers from speeds a Commer could only dream of. Have you looked at the Rover rear discs and if there’s a chance they could be adapted to the rear of the Commer or even a complete diff swap?

This is the model RAV4 that I got my disc off. I’m surprised you haven’t been able to find one at the wreckers.

RAV4SXA101995.jpg


It is a front disc off a 4WD, never heard of a 2WD version, we only got 4WD’s here, which where usually sold to 20 year olds who tended to drive them like a sports car and ended up crashing or rolling them. I’ve checked the UK EBay site where you can buy a pair of disc for this model RAV4 for 70 Pound plus delivery there are probably others suppliers too.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brembo-Brake-Discs-TOYOTA-RAV-4-2-0i-16V-SXA10-11-94-00-/170619811416?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b9bbb658

Unfortunately I’ve had little progress on my set up, as I’m also on light duties following an operation, but give me a week or two and things should start happening again.

Cheers All
Stephen
 
Hi and a Happy New year to all

Well thing have been progressing though a little slowly of recent, mainly as a result of buying a sand blasting cabinet. Having removed the front end from the van I have become quite addicted to sand blasting anything that fits in the cabinet. Brilliant results, but a little time consuming at times, I kept looking for anything laying around to blast. Finally got a grip and got back on task.

During my blasting frenzy I cleaned up the callipers and gave them a coat of heat resistant paint, to add a little bit of "Bling Factor" to the slotted and drilled discs I am using on the front end. It should all look pretty good when it’s eventually back together.

002.jpg
001.jpg


I ended up getting my own counter bore and making the recesses for the wheel studs in the discs, which have now been assembled. Of course I gave the hub flange a light blast, as you do, prior to a coat of heat resistant paint.

001-1.jpg
002-1.jpg


One advantage of living alone is the ability to put the discs, callipers and rear drums, which received the same treatment, in the kitchen oven to cure properly at temperature without someone complaining.

003.jpg


I am waiting for my machinist friend to come back from holidays so I can finally get the stub axles shortened, as I didn't get the opportunity to see him before Christmas. I hope to get the steel for the calliper mounts this week once everyone has recovered returned from New Years Eve/Day holiday celebrations.

With the front end now mostly disassembled and sand blasted, yes I'm addicted, given a coat of paint and get it will all be back in the van in the coming weeks, fingers crossed.

Cheer, Stephen
 
Hi all

I decided to get stuck into it yesterday afternoon and today after I picked up the 2 pieces of 130x130x12mm steel bar for the calliper mounts during the week for the grand total of $14. Firstly, I cut the 75mm hole, which was needed to clear the inner hub bearing body, using a good quality hole saw. After a lot of noise and smoke from the cutting fluid I had the two holes cut, and set to drilling the two large and two smaller mounting holes. With that done, I fitted what I had done to the Stub axle and was pleased to see it all lined up with the bolts dropping in perfectly.

I now fitted the disc to the stub axle and positioned the calliper so I could mark the calliper fixing holes, which proved to be quite a fiddly process, but got there in the end. While doing this I discovered that I needed a 3mm packer to make up the gap to get the calliper centred on the disc properly.

I made up the packer, which I tack welded to the calliper mount and drilled and tapped the holes for the calliper bolts. I quickly checked by bolting on the calliper and was again relieved when they fit perfectly. It did take longer than I thought it would, but I was pretty paranoid about getting it right first time, with the top holes smaller than the lower ones and not forgetting to make a left and a right it was worth checking things 2 or 3 times if necessary, which paid off in the end.

I'm so pleased to have finally got the mounts made. After grinded off some excess steel and rounding off the corners I gave them a light sand blast and here they are.

001-2.jpg


I also took some pictures of the complete assembly as I put it all together to be sure everything was right.

005-1.jpg
002-2.jpg
004.jpg
006.jpg
007.jpg


The only problem that arose once assembled was that part of the calliper that runs across and around the hub to wheel mounting flange protrudes about 2-3 mm, but should be easily fixed with some thin wheel spacers to give a little clearance. All the other clearances seem to be fine, so next a coat of paint and the job is done. Now on to the rest of the front suspension so I can get it back in the van. Further progress will be updated on The New Project in Readers' Rides, http://66.129.69.181/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=4472

Cheers Stephen
 
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