My new ride

[Paul Oliver]

So i finally got the gearbox, engine and front subframe out

Gearbox oil was pretty sludgy, but minimal metallicness to it, so hopefully its ok. There is a small bit of play (1mm ish)on the input shaft...is that normal? Or should i be looking at replacing the bearing there? There is either a seal gone there (although the gearbox seemingly had plenty of oil) or at the back of the engine as the clutch housing was lined with oily residue. I have not really had a close look at either of them yet to be quite honest!

Subframe, although greasy as hell, seems to be in excellent order! No wobbles, silky smooth, seems to have been well greased in its lifetime! Both springs look to be in good order. Shocks dont match, 1 is definately knackered!

Before:

After:

Engine:

Lovely rust and holes underneath:

So some degreasing, some rust removal, some welding, some painting and some reassembly is in order! At least that will be the front underside completed and i can then concentrate on the back

 

[Panky]

Oily residue is normal, or it is for every Commer bell housing I've ever seen:I To take the input shaft out you need to drop the layshaft, fiddly and fraught with dangers of needle rollers dropping out all over the place - leave as is for now and see how it runs:I
Nice job of cleaning the components[^] Did you shot blast them?

Summer's here.....
So they say

 

[Paul Oliver]

Ahh ok i shall not worry then! Is finding little bits of metal pretty normal in these old boxes? Woulod it be worth me sourcing a magnetic drain plug?

Parts are just cleaned a knotted brush on my angle grinder! i was very happy how clean they came out! Once the rest have been done, a bit of degreaser and they will be ready for paint

 

[Hazel]

Look after that old dizzy and coil - they are like gold-dust- Hazels Dad

 

[commeracer]

Magnetic sump plugs are an excellent idea, just find a suitable sized magnet and lightly press fit with loctite into the original drain plugs
Looks like you will need a few gallons of phosphoric acid too [:0]

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"

 

[Paul Oliver]

Don't worry, i am trying to look after all the original pieces on that engine!

I have some neodymium magnets kicking about, i shall attatch one! Probably going to be a good idea on the engine sump plug too...

Phosphoric acid wise, i have some of that bilt hamber stuff i was going to use. Obviously i am going to have to spend quite some time under there with my knotted brush on the anglegrinder! Are there any other products you guys recomend whilst i am there?

Few bits have been stripped and painted inbetween other jobs today:

 

[cazz enigma]

Looks like your getting there, bit by bit! Be worth all the hard work when it's finished

www.justgiving.com/Barnabas-Mini-Bus

 

[Navyreg1970]

quote:
Originally posted by Panky

quote:
Originally posted by Paul Oliver

Comm-Pete, how much have those GRP panels cost you?

Commeracer, so would CO2 be a better gas to use on the commer? I don't mind giving it a try although i would still have to get argon for when i build stuff on the farm and i also have to pay BOC yearly anyway



I work for BOC and still can't get cheap gas:I hence the CO2. I've tried Argoshield (when I could get it cheap) and while it was better I find CO2 perfectly adequate.

Summer's Coming.....
Trust me



I was always lead to believe that welding with Co2 as your shield can lead to problems of increasing carbon content in the weld pool - much harder weld but less tough so more prone to stress cracks at the weld interface

The Dog is on its way....

http:www.singleusemedical.co.uk
my new business

 

[commeracer]

There is evidence to suggest it,s more prone to oxide formation, a form of hydrogen embrittlement. It can be overcome by better deoxidized wire. Technically is an active gas so it,s MAG not MIG welding. But it has been used for years, and all the mixed gases have a percentage of CO2. You would not weld up an oil rig or gas pipeline with it, but welding up a rusty Commer is hardly in the same league
One place i worked at in the 80,s used nothing but pure Co2 for welding up Jag crossmembers and L/Rover axles

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"

 

[Comm-Up-Ear]

quote:
Originally posted by commeracer

There is evidence to suggest it,s more prone to oxide formation, a form of hydrogen embrittlement. It can be overcome by better deoxidized wire. Technically is an active gas so it,s MAG not MIG welding. But it has been used for years, and all the mixed gases have a percentage of CO2. You would not weld up an oil rig or gas pipeline with it, but welding up a rusty Commer is hardly in the same league
One place i worked at in the 80,s used nothing but pure Co2 for welding up Jag crossmembers and L/Rover axles

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"



Phew, cheers Tim, i was getting worried HAHAHAHA! Iv'e only used Co2 and 0.6 wire on my whole van[:0] oh and 0.8 wire which blew holes all over the place???

Naku penda PIA Naku taka PIA Mpenziwe!!!

 

[commeracer]

Looks like you,re doomed then Scott

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"

 

[Paul Oliver]

I think i will still with Argon guys haha!

Engine crane is functional, just needs a few gussets, rear wheel rack and wheels fitted (now received) and new front wheels fitted Then once i have used it a bit to test it to make sure its all groovy, it can be all sprayed up

Progress has been good, subframe all stripped and even some paint applied

That Bilt Hamber Deox gel is awesome stuff!

(tape is to seal the holes ready for waxoiling the internal structure)

Mr MOT man may need his sunglasses[8D]

Gearbox has has been half cleaned ready for a lick of paint, its pretty filthy!

And once thats all cleaned and being painted...im onto this crusty sod...

And between jobs i have been sorting out my mates car. Originally my girldfriends until somebody smashed into it, its been straightended and i was doing the finishing touches to it Shame about the rubbish looking bumper though

 

[THE ICEMAN]

Think i must have started a trend with the yellow suspension parts!! They do look the muts nuts though.

The ICEMAN is alive!!! - just needs a change of fur....

 

[lodown]

nice one mate, are you still planning on lowering
the front end ?

 

[Paul Oliver]

Yeah i love the yellow!

Yes i am planning to drop both ends, seems i will be running modified t25 shocks (the shortened ones for lowering) and having some springs made up for me/find some of similar rate but shorter length from another vehicle

 

[Paul Oliver]

Some more progress, although frightfully slow [V] My pain killers are losing thier effectiveness so im pretty much a cripple now. Hospital appointment tomorrow though so yay!

Engine crane got finished today (finally) so i got the engine onto the bench and started stripping it down...

Sump came off easily, nice and clean inside, virtually no gunk which was suprising and a relief!

Managed to crack several imperial sockets and still havent even stripped the engine yet... tempted now just to degrease it, paint what i can and refit as it is now... sodding thing! Is there anything i really need to get to that will desperately need attention? Or should i just say sod it, service it and see how it goes?

Gearbox has been cleaned up, and the steel part painted, whilst the alloy parts have just been cleaned down, i quite like them unpainted

RACING GEARBOX!

Or just red paint on the steel section :I

Subframe has been waxoiled inside, so tomorrow itll have a last clean, then be primed and painted up, itll be a nice feeling getting all that back together!

 

[commeracer]

Good work [^] pay close attention to the core plugs

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"

 

[Paul Oliver]

Please elaborate, i am aware of what they are but not sure what potential problems i may get from them?

 

[commeracer]

They rot from the inside, and are difficult to replace in situ. So for a couple of quid it,s well worth popping them out and cleaning out the crud in the water jacket, and pressing new ones in with a little sealant and a good fitting tube/socket as a drift. You buy them by the o/d size i.e 1 1/2" diameter

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"

 

[Paul Oliver]

Ah ok in that case i shall order some, might as well get them out of the way! I know the waterways have a fair amount of muck in them, but there is little i can do about that without a good flush i guess? Seems as though pretty much everything else that may need doing, can be done with the engine in situ!