DODGE SUPERVISTA
- Thread starter steve williams
- Start date
Just tried an 1/8 BSP fitting into a Commer block and it does screw in but the pressure switch only goes into an 1/8 BSP T piece 1/2 a turn. This is because the BSP thread is tapered but the switch is a 1/8 NPT parallel thread. A Mini switch fits in the Commer block so you can use a T piece and fitting designed for a Mini
I see, thanks so much Panky. so i can just put a 1/8 bsp straight thread pressure switch directly into the block and connect to a new oil pressure dial matched to the switch and forget the t piece? The full kits are pretty cheap on fleebay (cheaper than a new engine anyhow
got a new Pressure RV to fit and sender also to see if that works first but ideally want a dial rather than a light to fully monitor it while driving.
I have one on the Commer van though it doesn't work so going to look at that this evening to see if an easy fix...can then transfer that over initially to check it out before buying one.
got a new Pressure RV to fit and sender also to see if that works first but ideally want a dial rather than a light to fully monitor it while driving.
I have one on the Commer van though it doesn't work so going to look at that this evening to see if an easy fix...can then transfer that over initially to check it out before buying one.
The block thread is NPT but a BSP fitting will go in but best to stick to the right thread. I would go for a kit with a T piece, or buy a T piece separately, and keep the pressure switch too. Like I said the Mini one is ideal but you will need to get a longer pipe, the kit I got for Ted ( same as a Mini) came with various adaptors to fit into the T piece depending on what thread was there.
... So keep both and the mini one your using is using mechanical rather than electrical monitoring. Was thinking of an electronic one straight in to block or guess now a t piece.
So if I can find a t piece with 1/8 NPT to block and 2x 1/8 BSP non tampered threads (or at least 1 non tampered) to plug in to I'm laughing...
So if I can find a t piece with 1/8 NPT to block and 2x 1/8 BSP non tampered threads (or at least 1 non tampered) to plug in to I'm laughing
...
Yep I used a piped in gauge and the original switch on a T peice so I could keep the warning light, nowt wrong with the electrical ones and easier to connect up. You can still use a T piece with an electric gauge and keep the warning light switch for a double check. But get 1/8 BSP out of your head it's all 1/8 NPT.
just re read...all clear now. Will get on it tonight and double-up-de-monitoring
Honestly it's me not you...
feel like we're splitting up
feel like we're splitting up
well pressure is low grrrr. New psv, sender and oil pressure gauge. Going back in to builders Friday but they're 100% confident in the build and suspect the new oil pump is faulty. Hopefully know soon. Faff of getting the pump out with the block in but should be possible
it was a bit out of tolerance but no more than the old one. They said the first bearing they ordered were wrong size in wrong box so double checked everything why so confident. I guess other thing is faulty gauge so checking that first of all. Hoping not needing re machining :-/
whats the readings jim to convince you that they are low?
never heard of a new faulty oil pump always a first time tho
never heard of a new faulty oil pump always a first time tho
Hi Steve. They're at 40 on cold (that's ok)...once hot 25-30 at 2500-3000 revs and drops right off at tickover to around 5 I so well under where needs to be. Should be over 40+ at 2000-2500 - got the higher rated PRV from Martin also so I'd expect it to hit around 50+ cold at 2000 which it doesn't get near. The only other thing is the drip pipe for the timing chain as they put the pully and cover back on but he was confident that went back on. TBH if it was that think would be lower.
The tolerance that was out on the new pump compared to the book was the one putting a flat ruler across the top and measuring the gap between the ruler and the drive pump.
The tolerance that was out on the new pump compared to the book was the one putting a flat ruler across the top and measuring the gap between the ruler and the drive pump.
it was flickering before I changed the sender unit. To be fair it hasn't since despite the gauge showing 5psi. It is the second gauge I've tried though the first was old and the second was cheapish. Off to France in 5 weeks so need to be sure it's all ok and not a timebomb, apart from that it's running well with good power etc. would be perfect if it is the pressure gauges but too many things seem to be adding up to something else.
Will know Friday when they put their professional dial on it.
Will know Friday when they put their professional dial on it.
yes thats my hope too Steve. It's plumbed in using a T-piece in where the current oil light sender switch locates into the side of the block, between the oil filter and the dizzy
bit of a mystery
if it was an older engine i wouldnt be at all concerned but agree you expect better from a rebuild
this might help
http://teae.org/relief-valve-change-can-cure-alpine-lop/
have you blown the oil pipe through to make sure theres not a bit of crud in it?
a really odd thought,is the gauge of pipe the correct one for the gauge.if its not perhaps theres not enough pressure getting from the engine to the gauge
if it was an older engine i wouldnt be at all concerned but agree you expect better from a rebuild
this might help
http://teae.org/relief-valve-change-can-cure-alpine-lop/
have you blown the oil pipe through to make sure theres not a bit of crud in it?
a really odd thought,is the gauge of pipe the correct one for the gauge.if its not perhaps theres not enough pressure getting from the engine to the gauge