Back of the garage
- Thread starter Panky
- Start date
Another little mod done on Harvey. He hasn't got a mechanical fan and relies on the lekky one and a big scoop, now it works pretty well but the fan cuts in a bit more than I would like - I guess because he's producing a few more horses than a standard engine, so I did a Tim and fitted a bike rad in the return line from the heater.
Off a KTM and picked it up for £12 inc. P&P off eBay. Fits in snugly just behind the valance, after re-positioning the horn, and, with my super scoop, gets enough of a flow of fresh air from the side of the grille.
It makes just enough difference I connected up a digital thermometer to the thermostat housing and compared before and after fitting the rad. On a hard run up the local by-pass, that has a gradual incline, the fan was cutting in at 94 degrees and off at 88 as the switch is set to do. With the rad and on the same run the temp held at a fairly steady 88 degrees and only cut in when I got stuck in traffic as you would expect. Well chuffed - one of those jobs I've been meaning to do for ages.
Off a KTM and picked it up for £12 inc. P&P off eBay. Fits in snugly just behind the valance, after re-positioning the horn, and, with my super scoop, gets enough of a flow of fresh air from the side of the grille.It makes just enough difference
I connected up a digital thermometer to the thermostat housing and compared before and after fitting the rad. On a hard run up the local by-pass, that has a gradual incline, the fan was cutting in at 94 degrees and off at 88 as the switch is set to do. With the rad and on the same run the temp held at a fairly steady 88 degrees and only cut in when I got stuck in traffic as you would expect. Well chuffed - one of those jobs I've been meaning to do for ages.
You know we likes a bit of bling
Got these a couple of years ago for a fiver, autojumble bargain or what, looking a bit pitted.
So I did my version of a wrap and, after a swift rub down, covered them with aluminium glazing tape and gave them a quick pollish.
Rather suits them I think
Got these a couple of years ago for a fiver, autojumble bargain or what, looking a bit pitted.
So I did my version of a wrap and, after a swift rub down, covered them with aluminium glazing tape and gave them a quick pollish.
Rather suits them I think
lovely job Jon.. Slightly Batmobile
Very nice young man.
Glad to hear you're much cooler Panky
Teds indicators should be self-cancelling but I think I got the optional non-self-cancelling type Occasionally I forget to flick the indicator stalk back and drive on oblivious to the two green flashing lights that are gently reminding me to switch them off. The flasher unit is mounted in the engine bay and there's no way I can hear the distant click, click, click with the engine running so I had a fiddle
And came up with this little beauty
Just a simple relay mounted on an old tobacco tin lid 'amplifier' and wired between the common connection on the flasher unit to earth, all tucked up behind the dash. Works great with a nice distinct click Probably eventually need to wire it to a siren the way my hearing is going
I've got the same non-self-cancelling indicating system on Harvey so I think I'll fit one in there too, might try a spray can lid resonator this time - or maybe an empty treacle tin
Occasionally I forget to flick the indicator stalk back and drive on oblivious to the two green flashing lights that are gently reminding me to switch them off. The flasher unit is mounted in the engine bay and there's no way I can hear the distant click, click, click with the engine running so I had a fiddleAnd came up with this little beauty
Just a simple relay mounted on an old tobacco tin lid 'amplifier' and wired between the common connection on the flasher unit to earth, all tucked up behind the dash. Works great with a nice distinct click
Probably eventually need to wire it to a siren the way my hearing is goingI've got the same non-self-cancelling indicating system on Harvey so I think I'll fit one in there too, might try a spray can lid resonator this time - or maybe an empty treacle tin
Hey hey
It really does work, Harvey's fan rarely cuts in now. I've been using him daily since Tatton and noticed the difference over time so not just a one off, very pleased with how it works That rad looks about twice the size of the one I fitted so you probably wont need the fan, I'd leave it off as it could restrict the air flow through the rad.
It really does work, Harvey's fan rarely cuts in now. I've been using him daily since Tatton and noticed the difference over time so not just a one off, very pleased with how it works
That rad looks about twice the size of the one I fitted so you probably wont need the fan, I'd leave it off as it could restrict the air flow through the rad.
PaulJL
0
stick 2 wing repeaters on top of the wings.... You will see the flashTeds indicators should be self-cancelling but I think I got the optional non-self-cancelling type
And came up with this little beauty
View attachment 1761
Just a simple relay mounted on an old tobacco tin lid 'amplifier' and wired between the common connection on the flasher unit to earth, all tucked up behind the dash. Works great with a nice distinct click
I've got the same non-self-cancelling indicating system on Harvey so I think I'll fit one in there too, might try a spray can lid resonator this time - or maybe an empty treacle tin
It's happening all over again
The poor Mini been languishing in the back of the garage for too long, almost five years of slumber while other projects took priority Laid up after it developed an oil leak that would keep a small middle east country in business, it would nearly empty the sump on a decent run and cars following would back off because they were getting sprayed with oil
So the other day I put a battery on it just to make sure it hadn't seized, I knew it wouldn't start as I'd pinched the some bits (carb) for Bonnie's SU conversion I turned the key and the familiar sound of the 1275 cranking over was music to my ears and inspired me to get started I suspected the leak was coming from the offside of the gearbox which I had tried (and failed) to cure by fitting a new pot joint and seal, the box was also pretty noisy and crunchy when changing but I have a spare engine from a Mini Special buried in the garage somewhere which will soon donate it's gearbox to the cause.
Over the last couple of days I've managed to clear (just) enough room to work in and the engine is now on the bench (old B&D Workmate) and stripped. Pleasantly surprised at the condition even after just under 100K miles of enthusiastic driving, twice yearly oil changes, and the later total loss lubrication, seemed to have paid off. On the cards are new rings as the bores will be spot on with a quick hone, new mains and big end shells - crank again is excellent. I fitted a stage three head in the last 'refresh' a couple of years before the car was laid up so a quick valve inspection with new stem seals (and line up the rockers a bit better) should be enough.
Updates as they happen but not in any rush to finish, there's the rest of the car to check too
Nice and clean in there
Yes I cut the slam panel out to make it easier to shift the lump
That's +.020" in old money, it's a mighty 1293
New shells to be fitted but crank is just about perfect
We've been here before
Watch this space
The poor Mini been languishing in the back of the garage for too long, almost five years of slumber while other projects took priority
Laid up after it developed an oil leak that would keep a small middle east country in business, it would nearly empty the sump on a decent run and cars following would back off because they were getting sprayed with oil So the other day I put a battery on it just to make sure it hadn't seized, I knew it wouldn't start as I'd pinched the some bits (carb) for Bonnie's SU conversion
I turned the key and the familiar sound of the 1275 cranking over was music to my ears and inspired me to get started I suspected the leak was coming from the offside of the gearbox which I had tried (and failed) to cure by fitting a new pot joint and seal, the box was also pretty noisy and crunchy when changing but I have a spare engine from a Mini Special buried in the garage somewhere which will soon donate it's gearbox to the cause.Over the last couple of days I've managed to clear (just) enough room to work in and the engine is now on the bench (old B&D Workmate) and stripped. Pleasantly surprised at the condition even after just under 100K miles of enthusiastic driving, twice yearly oil changes, and the later total loss lubrication, seemed to have paid off. On the cards are new rings as the bores will be spot on with a quick hone, new mains and big end shells - crank again is excellent. I fitted a stage three head in the last 'refresh' a couple of years before the car was laid up so a quick valve inspection with new stem seals (and line up the rockers a bit better) should be enough.
Updates as they happen but not in any rush to finish, there's the rest of the car to check too
Nice and clean in there
Yes I cut the slam panel out to make it easier to shift the lump
That's +.020" in old money, it's a mighty 1293
New shells to be fitted but crank is just about perfect
We've been here before
Watch this space
That looks familiar. Back in 1978 I used to work for a well known High Street motor factors and as part of our staff training we had to be able to strip down and rebuild an engine. The engines we used were an A series Mini and a Ford crossflow. We didn't have a fancy red engine though, ours was green. I bet they don't still do that and I haven't stripped an engine since!
Forgot to mention: Good work Panky, nice to the little beast getting some attention. I still remember it blasting its way in a little haze on an epic trip to the meet in Cambridge.