Thowman's PB

The seat belt mount is quite far away from the sills - hopefully 30cm. I will be getting it taken to a friendly local tester who hopefully won't be too harsh as I don't have time or money for anything other than patches.

Good news is the head has been done, and will be collected in the morning, and I managed to seperate the manifolds without shearing off any bolts, so at least I can now bolt them flush to the head first before tightening the linking bolts and so not have any exhaust blowing noises in the engine compartment. The previous installation had both centre exhaust outlets blowing by the head as the centre part of the exhaust manifold wasn't completely flush with the inlet manifold.

Both manifolds went in the blast cabinet and came out nice and clean, and have now been treated to a paint in some nice high temp paint - and they look lovely. :D

A
 
Andy, check the exhaust manifold on a surface plate (or sheet of glass) and grind it in, as they have a tendency to lift in the middle :)

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"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
Good news - Babs now has a working engine! :D

Good compression on all cylinders (125-130 psi) and after a careful set up started first time and runs smoother than it ever has before (which wouldn't be difficult.

However, the oil pressure light remains on when idling, and doesn't extinguish until about 1200 rpm. I don't know what might be causing this? I removed the filter housing in order to get the side plate off. Removed and drained the filter and then fitted it back on. Other than something related to that, I am at a loss as to why the light remains on. Oil is certainly flowing as we watched it come out of the rockers when we first started it. Prior to taking the head of, the light went out as soon as the engine was fired up.

Any ideas anyone?
 
Hi Andy, have you an oil pressure gauge?as i had a problem with the imps oil light coming on at low rev's,had no reason to suspect oil pressure problems.So i put a new switch in and now light goes out almost immediately, so if you have doubts gauge will give a true reading. BTW I didn't and still haven't fitted my gauge and the engine hasn't blown up as yet even though it gets thrashed around so worth a try. Also did you manage to do up the union ok on the oil feed to rocker rail? Hope this helps;)
Trev

back to my "rootes"
 
Relief valve could be a bit weak, or sticking, it's mounted on the side of the oil filter housing.

http://www.commervanspares.co.uk/

http://www.yorkshireclassiccampers.co.uk/
 
The relief valve was a new one fitted last year. Baz had the same thought. I think I will take the filter housing off again tomorrow, and make sure that I have fitted the everything correctly. I double checked the head oil feed pipe, and am certain that it was done up tight, and there was oil exiting the rockers when the engine was running - so this is connected.

I cannot think why the light stays on now, whereas before carrying out the work it wasn't an issue. Looking at the lubricating system diagram in the rootes manual, the issue must be in the filter or housing, I think. So, if I cannot find a problem with the fitting of the housing, I think I'll replace the sender (as they are easy to get); do an oil flush and change and replace the filter.

If I can find a cheap oil pressure gauge, I might fit that. I did include a wire for it when I built the loom.

Tomorrow, baz is coming over again, and we're going to check the brakes, weld on a new rear exhaust bracket, and to start the welding prep to repair the driver's floor. I am taking her for an MOT on Thursday.... lots to do.

Also need a new throttle cable as it accidentally touched the solenoid live and got a bit red hot, and now is a bit stiff. Have you got any Martin?

Thanks

Andy
 
Good news. Oil pressure issue fixed. Relief valve was valve was ever so slightly open, so it's been thoroughly cleaned in diesel, and replaced and now the light extinguishes on start up. Gold stars to Baz and Martin
 
Another productive day yesterday. Moved Babs out from her storage place and put her on the ramp to repair the rear exhaust mount. Sent Baz out to scout for a suitable piece of metal, and he came back with a Landrover alternator bracket a few minutes later which seems to have done the trick really well.

IMG_0183.jpg


We took her for a spin around the private test track (field) and did a few brake tests - and the rears weren't right, and the rear end was pulling slightly to the left under heavy braking. So, removed wheels and checked out each corner. The fronts are fine, and just needed adjusting. The rears, however, had very stiff cylinders, that didn't want to return to their normal positions, plus the seals on the cylinder we dismantled was a bit shot - so will be replacing both cylinders.

So, just got some welding to do over the next couple of days, and wait for Mr Maltas to send down the parts I need. The good news is the engine oil pressure is now sorted and it runs really well.

Also looks quite nice, now the manifolds have been blasted and painted too.

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Hope the engine runs as good as it looks[8D]
Nearly there - good luck.

th_DCP_9918.jpg

Summer's here.....
Told you
 
Did a bit of welding yesterday. I now no longer have a hole in the driver's floor edge. Possibly not the neatest repair ever, but it's now solid. Just now got to weld up the hole in the battery box, and make good to the front sill.
 
More progress today. Cleaned NS front wheel arch and replace metal.

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Look what was lurking in the inner sill.
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Tomorrow - same job on the other side. The metal replacement will do for now, as I will need to replace everything when I get round to putting new sills on both sides, but at least the MOT tester isn't going to find wads of filler.

When both sides are done, I will be covering everything in POR15, and then schulzing it. Fortunately, the chassis is very solid indeed, and I don't think I'll need to replace any of the outriggers. The van has it's bad points, the front end, but the main bit seems pretty solid, and the floor is good at the back.

More work tomorrow.
 
Remarkably solid around the jacking point[^] Good job Andy

th_DCP_9918.jpg

Summer's here.....
Told you
 
Great progress , good to see you welded up the strange sqaure hole above the jacking point just at the start of the inner sill,no idea why they put it there,it just fills with water from the wheel, im doing the same job to Tims old BT van , id put photos of it all when i learn how to size the pics , any way nice proper job your doing there.
 
Thanks. The jacking points and all the outriggers are very sound, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, the front lower 6 inches is all in need of replacement - but that will come.

Steve, I haven't welded up that hole. I admit I was surprised that it was there, and I guess I will seal it up when I have the front sills off, and do the flutes. Likewise, a bit surprised to find a similar hole at the beginning of the front wheel arch - which probably is why the front sills rot so readily. I guess this can be welded up and sealed as well.
 
The sills have several holes that are useful for letting in water [xx(]

Good work ;)

4650583641_dba2503b41_o.jpg

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
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