Theres life in the old dog yet

Why? Because without the shroud air just goes around the engine bay and is not directed where it has the most benefit ie onto the block. Rootes did`nt fit a shroud without good reason! air flow is critical on the Commer as there is precious little of it coming in through the intake.

Bloody Commer`s!
 
As i understand it and it seems to be bourne out by experience the shroud causes the mechanicle fan to draw its ait through the full area of the rad rather than the somewhat smaller area covered by the electric fan. it also helps direct the air where is needed the most after its been through the fan. If the electric fan is on the front you also loose the area of the fan motor. On something with cooling as marginal as a commer this WILL cause it to overheat but only when actually driving. Just ticking over its able to handle the heat. I dont like the driven fan but until i can find a better way of doing it it is staying. I thing some kind of ducted scoup and a shroud on the front might work but not sure its worth the effort. Just sticking a lecky fan direct on the rad wont work in most cases:( Whats so bad about the driven fan? it is a bit noisey and sucks some of the "power"
but its not that bad[?] Good luck with it.

Well...alright then, maybe just a little...
 
quote:
Originally posted by Beachboy

Why? Because without the shroud air just goes around the engine bay and is not directed where it has the most benefit ie onto the block.
Why?? Because unless Lee has put a VW engine in it is likely to be watercooled!
The Kenlowe fastened to the radiator pulling replaces mechanical fan and cowl/shroud.
Pushing assists mechanical fan and cowl when needed.
 
Well I never knew Commers were water cooled:D
You still need as much air as possible flowing onto the block to help cool it which is why Rootes designers fitted a shroud.

Bloody Commer`s!
 
dont think its air related as it was driving ok before. did you try bleeding it?

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Dolly Commer Is Here http://66.129.69.181/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6833
 
quote:
Originally posted by THE ICEMAN

If the electric fan is on the front you also loose the area of the fan motor.
That worried me too, but still I have settled on original fan with cowl and electric pusher on the front with manual switch, coping with all situations... so far...:)
 
went for another drive - took the thermostat out to see if that was sticking. Still got hot very quickly - however I have turned the thermostat down on the Kenlowe as I had it set to come on when the needle just got to the red zone. Have now set it to come on mid way between the half way mark and the red - on the drive back from the 3 horseshoes (my 3 mile marker) the temperature didnt get into the red.

I havent put the fan cowlings back yet as it will mean taking a bit more off to get to.

daft question time, the dog didnt have a thermostat fitted when I picked it up so I had to source and fit one. which way up is it supposed to be - im sure you fit it with the spring & expanding bit sat in the hot water coming from the pump - it just seems that in this position the water pressure would act against the spring - or have I got it the wrong way round, should the spring be sticking up or down? - I have it down

The Dog is home....
0049.gif

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Just googled this ,out of interest, and if you scroll 1/3 down to frostys post here http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/diesel-engines/perkins-4-108-0verheating-14006-2.html
with the 'old Austin Maxi' reference, he mentions something about correct thermostat design for the by-pass....
 
I also read that running lean creates excess heat. I am still awaiting delivery of my fuel filter conversion kit - so at the moment there is a very old fuel filter fitted - if this is compromised then at full load the filter could be causing lean running by virtue of fuel restriction

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.. and I checked the manual - I dont have the thermostat that has a a bypass, and fortunately I did have it the right way up

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As a temp measure you can create a bypass by drilling a small hole in the thermostats plate, a 3mm drill bit will suffice, this is all a bypass is with a small float fitted.

Bloody Commer`s!
 
ok, interesting observations from another thread with a diesel exhaust for sale.

the diesel silencer should be 24" long x 6" diameter

I have been out and carried out some measurements on the dog - can anyone confirm based on my figures if my exhaust is right.

downpipe from exhaust manifold = 1.5" diameter
silencer = 17" long x 4" diameter
tailpipe = 1 3/4" diameter

just looked at johns van (1725 petrol)
his silencer is 19" long x 5" diameter

tailpipe 1.5" diameter

so my questions:
what diameter should the exhaust pipework be?
what should the silencer size be?

what effect will an undersized exhaust have on power & would it be contributing to the overheating?

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You,re barking up the wrong tree, nothing wrong with your exhaust with those dims.

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"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
Very good Tim;)quote:
Originally posted by commeracer

You,re barking up the wrong tree IMG]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/4650583641_dba2503b41_o.jpg[/IMG]
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"



Bloody Commer`s!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Navyreg1970

the silencer just seems tiny compared to what others have

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Just having a schoolboy snigger here Lee regarding your pipe envy... You sound genuinely upset you think you've got a little one. Cue a stream of jokes about it not being the size of the wand but the magic you can do, etc etc etc.;)

th_SAM_3673.jpg
 
Diesels are much easier to silence than petrols, so a smaller silencer is no problem............unless it,s restrictive inside, in which case it will zap economy and power. If its 1 1/2" all the way through then it,s fine.

4650583641_dba2503b41_o.jpg

"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
A two pronged attack at the overheating issue. I have organised a re-core of my radiator - and to get my hand back in just took the head off. The head gasket was perfectly intact, no sign of any leaks from water to oil or vice versa. The push rods are all nice and straight and no peening of the cups where the rockers sit. lots of sludge in the water side - I think I will bite the bullet and give he block a decent blast through and replace the leaking core plug while access is improved with the head off
the piston clearance looks tight and the bores appear to be in good condition, just the usual ridge at the top of the stroke - but I will need to get some feelers down tomorrow.
turning the head over, theres a lot of carbon / crud build up around the valves, and a couple of the valves dont look they are seated - properly. This is still after that liquid I put in the cylinders to dissolve the crud - you can see where it got but man alive theres loads left
I have ordered a valve train overhaul kit & a top end gasket set - the head will get stripped tomorrow, so I can see the valve seats - then it will all go in the lovely new ultrasonic bath we have just installed at work.

If the pistons are ok then thats it, otherwise Im going to have to start looking at new rings

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your gonna end up with a pretty much fully reconditioned perkins lump at this rate m8. good on you. never done a core plug but was told they are pretty simple to do as long as you had some access

7085000413_eb70a8423f_q.jpg

Dolly Commer Is Here http://66.129.69.181/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6833
 
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