If the voltage stabiliser is faulty then the gauge will do allsorts of strange things. I fitted a temp gauge to Bonnie and everything is fine at idle but on the road the gauge goes off scale very quickly and returns to normal again at idle. I realised I'd connected it on the wrong side of the stabiliser:I She's most definitely not overheating though.
Is the fan temp switch adjustable? if you've set it up by an incorrect gauge reading then it could be cutting in too soon.
.. and the fan takes its temp from the radiator - a probe wedges between the rad fins - it is adjustable and I probably have it set low as I am so paranoid about overheating
just looking at the Perkins manual,
thermostat starts to open at 175-182f (79.5-83.5c)
thermostat fully open at 200-205f (93.5-96c)
Im wondering if I am worrying too much about what is a very old - uncalibrated gauge
I wish the manual would specify a max temperature
I can't remember if you fitted the lekky fan as well as the engine fan or if you ditched the engine fan. It could be that the lekky one is restricting the flow through the rad, I'd take it out and see if the engine copes with the original fan.
took the mechanical fan off, the lekky doesnt really restrict the air flow - especially as I built the scoop to direct all the incoming air onto the rad
im wondering if If the fan cuts in too early it stops the thermostat from ever fully opening - which would reduce the flow rate through the engine, causing localised overheating ..
Sometimes they just aren't suitable, Tim had the same problem on a van (not a Commer) but when the original fan was replaced everything was fine. Put the mechanical one back on complete with all the cowling and see what happens.
Just a thought - the fan is spinning the right way??
that last comment sounds like I snapped a bit - it wasnt meant to come out like that - sorry Panky
anyway,
I put some of that leak weld stuff in - not your common a garden rad weld but stuff thats supposed to fix anything from head gaskets to cracked heads.
I ran the Dog on idle for a couple of hours a night through the week - and then went for a blat this morning - sneaked in about 10 miles - no boiling. Hottest part of the rad around 92, hottest part of the engine (just below exhaust manifold at rear) 115c
cant tell you what the temperature gauge read as it decided the soldered joint would give up the ghost - but definitely none of the really bad overheating smells I was having before.
I think it should make it to the MOT garage.... will ring them tomorrow
yes as when you over fill the rad it blows all over the engine. I have also cobbled together a bit of aluminium flexi ducting so i could mover the air filter more forward - and it now faces into the airflow rather than sticking straight out of the side of the engine.
not sure if I previously mentioned this, but I spoke to Perkins last week, and went through all my overheating woes. They scratched their heads and asked if my exhaust was up to the task - possibly wasnt getting rid of the exhaust gasses quick enough.
They suggested taking the exhaust off and trying to see what difference it made.
Tried that tonight, took the exhaust off, had a look inside - couldnt see much as it was all baffles. However I gave the engine a run - found the throttle to be much more responsive, jabbing the throttle got that nice twisting rocking movement throughout the whole van - that I didnt get with the exhaust on. I have contacted a couple of exhaust companies with a view to swapping to a straight through back box.
I also want to fit a tacho - any ideas, i hear you can connect them to the alternator
Just Googled it and the consensus of opinion is that a diesel tacho is wired up to the 'W' connection on the alternator. Either that or wire direct to one of the diodes within the alternator or fit a crank sensor. But the tacho will need to be re-calibrated to match the revolutions of the alternator.
Here's one of the discussions.
there is also this:
http://tinytach.com/diesel.php
which fits to one of the fuel injection lines and senses the pulse each time the injector "squirts" = 1 rpm
