New project

Just got back from a 330 mile trip to the Goodwood Revival, no issues apart from fuel evaporation in the carb after the longer runs. The carb gets very hot and the extended fuel line round the front of the rad away from hot parts proved too much for the mechanical pump (new!). As soon as I put fuel in the line to the carb the engine fired and the pump worked properly, so to stop messing around I'm going to put in an electrical pump. Anyone have any suggestions as to any suitable pumps?
 
That sounds odd, the mechanical pump should easily push the fuel an extra foot or so, mine certainly does. Could the extended pipe be kinked or blocked?
If you are going lekky the Facet are probably the best but there are cheaper ones, go for low pressure (1.5 to 3 psi has been recommended before). Do consider an inertia cut off switch though, in the event of a shunt it cuts the power to the pump in case the driver is incapacitated.

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I've just put a facet posiflo on my van, with a fuel pressure regulator set at 3psi, though you shouldn't need the regulator. Works well and was done in an hour or two
 
Thanks for the advice - where did you fit the pump? And what did you do about a blanking plate for the mechanical pump aperture?
 
I've fitted one but haven't plumbed it in yet. I've mounted it on a bracket I made attached to one of the petrol tank mounting bolts, but I remember Baz fitting one to the number plate panel. When I get round to actually finishing the job I was planning to just remove the arm from the mechanical pump.

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Electric pump now fitted, wired and plumbed in. All working OK so now need to complete a long run get everything good and hot and see if it cures the hot starting problem - here's hoping.
 
Aaaaaaggggggghhhhhh....vapour lock trouble still evident! Any ideas to fix this - return line to tank, change Weber carb for something else? I've run out of ideas.
 
There's a picture of a heat deflector under the carb, halfway down this thread, which might be worth a try...

http://forum.commervanfan.co.uk/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8745

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The simpler the betterer...
 
It's strange how some vans are affected and others are not. Is the new pump mounted at the tank end, have you used the original fuel line?

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When you put fuel in there is an overflow pipe
if that is blocked or twisted fuel seems to appear
around the cap as though syphoning I had this on Ran
I had to get a kink out of the breather?sorry on my mob
& havent read the whole thread.

Commer Dandy by Dandy Caravans now Riva Dandy
The Colonel Mustard six speed
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Member of the 6 speed club.
 
I've mounted a Facet posiflo just in front of the fuel tank (one of Tim's alloy creations), I'll try and get a photo of it this weekend. I've used a short length of 8mm ID fuel hose from the pump to the original fuel pipe which is now routed to the lhs of the engine so that there is a short length of 8mm hose over the air filter to the carb, this length is wrapped in ali foil tape. I've also made a heat deflector but nothing like the one shown in the feed. For safety I'm going to fit an inertia switch to the fuel pump power line just in case.
The carb gets very hot after a run, so imagine the float bowl is empty if left for a few minutes when hot. I've red that when VW's (sorry for swearing) are started from hot the throttle should be floored until it takes, does this make any sense?
 
Sounds like you've ticked all the right boxes. I'm not sure about that heat shield, seems to me it would trap heat underneath the carb and make things worse. It's got to be the carb, I'm wondering if the float level is too low.
Hair brained idea coming up - rather than floor the throttle, when it wont start, try full choke - it might just draw the petrol through to the carb.

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That makes more sense, I feel a trip coming on to try that out. Just discovered a furry critter in the engine bay, trap baited! Might look in the air box, you never know.
 
Would have thought the electric pump would take care of an empty float chamber...how are the valve clearances when hot?

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The simpler the betterer...
 
The basic problem is the manifolds being bolted together puts waaaaaaay too much heat into the inlet manifold and carb [xx(]

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"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
Founder of the 6 speed club
 
Be careful if using a Triumph PI inertia switch, though I never had any problems with my Mk2 PI and the Mk1 PI's never had them fitted. Back in the early 70's when the cars were new my, sister's friend bought a Mk2 PI new. On one trip to the country he hit a particularly bad pot hole at around 100kph (60mph) and the car just died and rolled to a stop. Now this guy knew a bit about cars and after checking what he could and the odd 4 letter work he wandered down to the nearest farm house to call the NRMA (our AA in NSW). Well the service guy couldn't make it go and was quite confused with that new fangled fuel injection stuff and elected to tow it into town for a better look back at the workshop.

Back at the workshop things didn't improve, the motor would crank there was spark, it didn't make any sense, until some gut pulled up for petrol. He filled his car and went over to see what was happening. The mechanic explained the story so far, to which the guy replied, "have you checked the inertia switch". Everyone looked puzzled and replied what's that. The guy reached into the engine bay beside the wiper motor and pushed the button down, try it now and after a few cranks she spluttered back to life on 1 cylinder then 2 and eventually all 6 and purring like a kitten. He explained he knew someone who had had the same problem, however he had read the owners manual and knew about the switch.

I have heard of others suffering the same problem and other, like me, never having a problem. I suspect the shock that trips the switches may vary as they are pretty simple and could be better fitting a Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday built version rather than a Monday or Friday version.

Probably better switches on the market these days, but I suppose it could happen to any depending on the circumstances.

Cheers
Stephen
 
After a winter of working in the garage, finally some warm days to get the old Deeside Dodge and tackle the appearance.

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Fitted a SS curved end pipe to the exhaust as I'm fed up cleaning the soot line down the side of my garage and over my toolbox. Looks pretty good and as a bonus it acts a bit like a trumpet and makes the exhauts note sound great.

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Cut the rug and fitted it, and started edging it today so now have fingers that look like colanders!

Refitted the orginal water tank and plumbed in. First attempt sent water everywhere inside as the foot pump needed a bit of a refurb. After completing that went again but could not get water up to the spout. A lot of swearing and stomping around, and then discoverd the tap! All working well and a little chuffed.
 
Just thinking about the colour change, as I've sprayed half the van blue do I need to change the colour on the V5C and advise the DVLA?
 
I would, just to keep the records straight. Although many don't bother and it could cause some concern if you ever (perish the thought) sell.
 
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