Manifold Leak

Yes it looks like a one way valve probably used a pollution control valve if it was piped into the engine breather to pull fumes into the engine to be burned. If the valve is just open to atmosphere then all it would do is draw air in and cause a weak mixture.
 
Just a quick note , sorry my deflector plate is steel , maybe stainless ? AND after cleaning it up and seeing ''FRONT'' inscribed , it was fitted the wrong way round :) Ken
The one way valve goes into the tin box on top of the carb , I can just about blow through it from the carb end but not the other way .
 
Last edited:
So it runs from the inlet manifold to the air filter housing? I'd block it off as it doesn't seem to be doing anything.
 
I have the 'spare manifold' apart and has good deflector plate if anyone needs it ? I may see how well the inlet manifold fits my exhaust and use it , if OK , as it only has the small flange hole which I can block .
 
Well done getting the manifolds apart. I managed to get some good quality manifold/head gaskets from F W Thornton of Telford. They look to have a metal type facing to both surfaces so am thinking that these are better than the cardboard looking ones. Any thoughts on that Panky. If you are looking for new brass nuts for the exhaust connection the only place I could find with the inch long ones that came off is www.scparts.co.uk., again a silly price but there we go. Spalding fasteners and Wrights Auto supplies list them but are out of stock.
Hope this helps, keep up the good work.
 
With your newly refaced manifold either will be fine. I've used both with no issues.
 
Don't know why brass nuts, perhaps they don't seize so much with only one surface to rust. I got new 1" nuts as that is what came off. As to why 1" I haven't a clue. Picked up the refaced manifold this morning, looks good, I am hoping this will do the trick and no more problems with it blowing. They even fitted new studs for the exhaust connection as they thought the originals looked suspect.
Keep up the good work. Malcolm.
 
Yes brass is less likely to seize but a smear of copper grease is still a good thing. The nuts are longer because brass nuts are more prone to stripping so the extra thread reduces the risk.
 
Thanks for replies , Yes that's what I thought ! brass strips easier than steel and yes copper grease a good idea too !! Commer on hold for little while as have bike stuff to do . I have to drill out the exhaust studs as they broke flush with the manifold ! Aint life grand ! Never a dull moment with old vehicles :) Ken
 
Try welding a nut onto what's left of the stud or just blobbing weld onto it, enough to get a pair of molegrips onto it, works a lot of the time.
 
Thanks , I'll think about that but I think the studs are well stuck as I had to use a lot of force before they snapped ! and if anything are a few thou below the manifold face . Also will have to make or find an exhaust seal ring as that broke too , or was already in peices before everything let go .
 
Hello , at last got the manifolds back and all old holes sealed , carb on and after charging the battery it started and ran gorgeously , even the choke going off almost immediately but will have to sort the carb adjustment and go over the nuts and bolts to make sure all tight and leak proof before going out in her ! Thanks for all your help , encouragement and suggestions . Ken
 
That's great news, just in time to collect the Christmas tree - if a little late:)
 
OH Christmas tree already installed . Started and ran OK again today after I went over and gave the nuts and bolts on manifold a little more umph ! and they needed it , always best to check after run for a little while ! Hope to run it round the block soon .
Hope you all have a Happy Christmas and Great Commer New Year , Ken n Trisha
 
Good to hear you are making progress and the van runs well. It gives you confidence to take it for a run. My manifold is back on now after it was skimmed. Have taken the van for a couple of 30 mile runs and everything seems to be ok. Fingers crossed!! Keep up the good work and who knows we might see each other at the Rootes gathering at Gaydon next year.
Until then Happy Christmas and a Healthy and Happy New Year to all our Commeristas.
 
Latest , I have bought a new battery as old one decided to retire and not work as it should ! The new one spins the engine like a turbine and starts well . Had it running in the drive a few times and today , took it for a run ! Started great , had to get petrol and it spun for what seemed like ages before it started from the petrol station but ran OK , obviously running rich ! Only did 17 miles and when home the plugs were a dull black but all equal , so will have to sort carburation out , hopefully , tomorrow ! Best wishes for 2026 .
 
Morning , hope all is well ! I have been out a couple of times - 17 and 27 miles and hoping for about 70 mile return tomorrow ! Can you please advise me what oil and filters to use in engine , gearbox and dif ? my oil filter is not readable and want a replacement before taking it off to measure . Anything special ? Thanks , Ken-n-Trish
 
Good afternoon and a Happy New Year to you guys.
20/50 engine oil for both engine and gear box, I've started using Duckhams rather than the cheap stuff as I find it maintains the oil pressure better for longer. EP90 GL4 for the diff

Here's a list of filters to choose from, some I couldn't find

Which oil filter?

I need to change the oil and filter in Chloe, but I cant find a suitable filter. Someone mentioned its a Champion C102, but my motor factor has 3 different models (differnet, size/thread etc) using that code! Has anyone got any more info? 1969 PB, 1725cc...
forum.commervanfan.co.uk

And this is the one I used last time

www.ebay.co.uk

Fram Oil Filter - PH2964 | eBay UK

Oil filters should be changed as per your manufacturer service schedule. Want to make sure this filter fits your car?. We operate 16 sites across the UK, including our 100,000 sq. ft. distribution warehouse in Glasgow.
www.ebay.co.uk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top