Distributor cap has brass dust inside

Yes set the points before you put it in and a couple of drops of oil under the rotor arm. The new dizzy should replace the old without issue, take note of where the rotor arm is pointing when you take the old one out and replace in the same position with the new. The timing might need a tweak but try it first and se how it runs. The dizzy will only go in one way as the drive dog is slightly off centre.
 
I lined up the rotor cap with the lug on dizzy body as couldn’t see TDC marks on pulley before removal of dizzy. Be as accurate as possible. Put the new dizzy in. (I didn’t have pen marks when I did it) ignore the type of dizzy in pic. I managed to turn engine by moving the rad fan. If won’t then screwdriver or metal rod on end of spindle where crank handle will go. I managed to get my arm down so could do it while sat in cab. This is what I did and it ran fine. I will take it for a spin as dizzy may need a little twist when it up to temperature etc. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you need more pics etc. 78CDD04A-4139-4EC5-BE5B-E60B726BAF31.jpeg
 
I lined up the rotor cap with the lug on dizzy body as couldn’t see TDC marks on pulley before removal of dizzy. Be as accurate as possible. Put the new dizzy in. (I didn’t have pen marks when I did it) ignore the type of dizzy in pic. I managed to turn engine by moving the rad fan. If won’t then screwdriver or metal rod on end of spindle where crank handle will go. I managed to get my arm down so could do it while sat in cab. This is what I did and it ran fine. I will take it for a spin as dizzy may need a little twist when it up to temperature etc. I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you need more pics etc. View attachment 8411
That's a great help thank u
 
To be honest get some gauges as this won’t be the only time you’ll use them. Anything you use as a gap measure you would need to check size with vernier calliper anyway.
 
To be honest get some gauges as this won’t be the only time you’ll use them. Anything you use as a gap measure you would need to check size with vernier calliper anyway.
Thanks SOupdragon yes I plan on getting a set but stuck at the moment , I have heard of people using credit cards to set them , where i live there are no motor factors around so it takes a few days to get stuff ,just looking for a quick fix for now , cheers regards Tintop
 
I’ve just checked and I reckon my bank card is .035 so way too fat. The bit of metal gauge is pointing to is .019 which is closer, if you had an old one. I don’t know what else I could check that may be a standard size. Actually the cig paper card in cutters choice feels very close to .012480F274A-E575-4A66-BFAE-FEBB2D9CE662.jpegimage.jpg
 
SOupdragon that's great thanks for taking the time to check ,I have an old Set of points with the metal part u showed in the picture , do u smoke rollups a cigarette paper packet may do it , I will just have a go at it with the metal point part and see wht happens , really appreciate your help regards tintop
 
No problem lol. Good luck. You could get a pack of papers and file the metal thinner using card as thickness guide. I have no idea how exact and critical the gap needs to be.
 
A hacksaw blade is about .025" so ideal for setting spark plugs and four layers of copier paper is .014" - close enough for points.
 
Thoughts on the pictures of new versus old distributor , on the circle were the clamp goes there is a straight piece but the distributor doesnt line up with it ,pictures may explain better , will it be alright and hold the distributor in place ,
 

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Also is the o ring it the right place on the new one , I dont think it came with it. My main concern is will the clamp damage new distributor or do u think it would be ok once tifhtened
 
It should be fine. It looks like the flat is designed accommodate the pinch bolt on the clamp, the 'O' ring looks OK too.
 
Thanks panky my other concern is the clamp is very tight ti turn even without the main tightening bolt I could leave it out and it would still be hard to turn . , i may have to sand the clamp inside so as to loosen it a bit for when I am adjusting the timing
 
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