Clutch Problems

If the shimming doesn't work the plate may have stuck to the flywheel, try putting it in reverse and crank it over - it works sometimes if it's not too badly stuck. Or get the engine warm, stop it then see it you can start it again in fist gear and slam on the brakes on when you get a little speed up without depressing the clutch, drastic but again it does work.

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Summer's Coming
 
Yeah it looks like that.

but shinier! :p

I don't think it's the plate stuck, it sounds wierd, but it sort of feels like if there were an inch more travel on the pedal it would work!

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If you are getting full travel on the slave cylinder then it should work, even if the bearing is worn down, I still think youve got an air bubble somwhere, sometimes even the easibleed fails where good old fasioned pumping will work. I'm guessing it worked OK before.

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Summer's Coming
 
Yeah, it worked fine before we took the engine out.

I'm thinking its one of five things:

1 - There's air in it
2 - The master cup I replaced (with one that was a bit smaller) isn't creating a seal
3 - There's a problem with the slave cylinder
4 - There a problem with the clutch, perhaps during the rebuild or installation
5 - something else

Going to have Skate to help me tomorrow, which will mean I can look at things while she presses the pedal, and will address 1 and 3 first, then try to get a master sup that fits. If none of that works, it'll be off to the garage with Frodo!

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Me? I'd go for air in the system, bubbles can be seen in our plastic length between master and slave, if there.
I dont bother with ezebleed anymore, block of wood to hold the pedal down while y'bounce round and tighten up.
Some times air does get stuck in the master cylinder and you might even find it has bled itself overnight, can happen, not saying it will.
 
The master cylinder seal would be pi****g fluid everywhere if it was too small, my money is still on an air lock - had the same trouble but a good old pump sorted it. Get Skate to hold the pedal down to the floor as you release the bleed nipple, pump the pedal a few times and hold down and release the bleed nipple again....and again....and again. Did you mention that the bleed nipple was lower than where the pipe fits in? if it is then swap them around so the nipple is on top.

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Summer's Coming
 
I have had similar problems with bleeding them, fortunately I have new masters on the shelf so I just change it. Never failed me yet ;)

http://www.commervanspares.co.uk/

http://www.yorkshireclassiccampers.co.uk/
 
This may not be your problem at all, but
The problem with a reseal kit is that it wont put lost metal back on the bores. What I mean is that sometimes its not the rubbers that are leaking or no longer sealing, its that over the years the piston has gone down the chambers enough times to scrape off ebough metal that it wont reseal adequately with new rubbers.

In the workshop we wont reseal customer's cylinders because sometimes it doesnt work at all (wasted labour), and often, even worse, if it does work it only works for a few months (customer thinks you didnt do the job properly and never comes back). I would advise new cylinders

Cheers
Jules

RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
 
Any body can buy new cylinders:) but when Speedys offer a seal kit for £3.50 an individual, with no customers to worry about, has to try it.
To be fair, the slave kit we fitted was identical to the old seals and has worked impeccably for years;)
 
I'm with Jules on this one. The cylinders have to come out either way, much better to put a new one in.

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Peggy drinks too much!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
 
One thing you should never cut corners on are the brakes - new is always the best thing to do, and that's what I always do.......

so how come I put second hand calipers on my LDV convoy? :)
 
quote:
Originally posted by thowman

One thing you should never cut corners on are the brakes

Andy, you might have got your brake/clutch lines crossed here:I;)
 
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