Looking forward to the next Harvey update 
'Hunny' our Commer Hi-Tor by TorCars
'Hunny' our Commer Hi-Tor by TorCars
Back of the garage
- Thread starter Panky
- Start date
I've been gathering bits and pieces over the last few weeks to get a few jobs sorted out. I decided that the steering box was in need of some love - it's been marking it's territory over the floor for a while now[xx(] I got a complete column and box from the guy at The Cambridge meet who brought the contents of his garage along for us to rummage through. It was a bit of a swine to change - a heavy lump to manoeuvre on you own as you have to change the whole lot out - steering column and box. The one I got was off a later Dodge but they're all the same I though - no - the mounting for the indicators is different
Commer
Dodge
I didn't want to use the Dodge indicator and cowl so a bit of adapting was required.
The shoulder at the top of the new collar is a bit too deep and the indicator assembly is sitting too low so I've just nipped into work to borrow the lathe again :I so that will be a job for tomorrow.
The belt driven water pump is redundant now I've fitted the Davies Craig so I sent it to Tim for some modification. He blanked off the bearing housing and the by-pass hose connection. The thermostat housing had been repaired with filler so a new one was required, but I also wanted a connection to fit a temperature switch for the lekky fan - only one thing for it...make one
The by-pass between the thermostat housing and the water pump is to allow some circulating through the engine before the thermostat opens, water from the head returns from before the thermostat to the suction side of the pump, but with the pump repositioned the by-pass wasn't by-passing anything and was just a stagnant flow, hence blanking the connection. However it's not wise to run the engine without any flow so the by-pass will be redirected to the suction of the new pump.
New housing and modded pump casing in place. Notice new switch for fan.
The by-pass from the thermostat housing will connect to the blue T piece at the bottom of the rad. When the heater eventually goes back in the return will be plumbed into here as well.
Tomorrow I'll finish off the indicator adaptor - and stick the piece of fascia panel back on I managed to smash off getting the column out:I
Commer
Dodge
I didn't want to use the Dodge indicator and cowl so a bit of adapting was required.
The shoulder at the top of the new collar is a bit too deep and the indicator assembly is sitting too low so I've just nipped into work to borrow the lathe again :I so that will be a job for tomorrow.
The belt driven water pump is redundant now I've fitted the Davies Craig so I sent it to Tim for some modification. He blanked off the bearing housing and the by-pass hose connection. The thermostat housing had been repaired with filler so a new one was required, but I also wanted a connection to fit a temperature switch for the lekky fan - only one thing for it...make one
The by-pass between the thermostat housing and the water pump is to allow some circulating through the engine before the thermostat opens, water from the head returns from before the thermostat to the suction side of the pump, but with the pump repositioned the by-pass wasn't by-passing anything and was just a stagnant flow, hence blanking the connection. However it's not wise to run the engine without any flow so the by-pass will be redirected to the suction of the new pump.
New housing and modded pump casing in place. Notice new switch for fan.
The by-pass from the thermostat housing will connect to the blue T piece at the bottom of the rad. When the heater eventually goes back in the return will be plumbed into here as well.
Tomorrow I'll finish off the indicator adaptor - and stick the piece of fascia panel back on I managed to smash off getting the column out:I
Excellent progress [8D] nice and spacious between the rad and engine [^]
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
I may well be completely wrong, but I thought the thermostatic switch for the electric fan should be fitted to the radiator, otherwise the fan may cut in too early, or does it not really make much difference?
'I'm the same age as a Forward Control Commer'
'I'm the same age as a Forward Control Commer'
It generally goes in the top hose although some modern cars have it in the bottom hose. The thinking here is that the fan only cuts in if the water leaving the rad is not cool enough. I have tried both positions on my Imp and there is little noticable difference, it's currently fitted to the top hose.
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
Peggy's got an MOT !!! (not a lie)
Peggy's got an MOT !!! (not a lie)
It depends on what temperature the switch is set at - if it is in the bottom hose and it's set at 90 degrees then you are already on the way to overheating. In the top hose or stat housing you measure the temperature before the cooling effect of the rad so fan has time to react and do it's stuff. I did think about fitting the switch in the top of the rad but as I needed a new stat housing anyway.......
That all makes sense. I was ignoring modern cars, but my 1972 Renault 17 has the switch mounted at the top of the radiator. Incidently, I have a couple of spare electric fans if if anyone wanted a 'period' electric fan.
'I'm the same age as a Forward Control Commer'
'I'm the same age as a Forward Control Commer'