Back of the garage

Well hello Mr Fordy - how the hell are ya:D
I've been grasping the nettle, biting the bullet and generally diving in head first - was hoping to be on the road by Easter but that's not going to happen [V]. It doesn't help when you buy dodgy overdrive boxes from shady blokes on a pub car park;) But I guess my warranty is invalid now I've had it to bits[}:)].

'Harvey the RV'
 
superb panky - a good job well done. Your 3rd gear syncro is probably going to work a bit better now[:0]

welcome Commer gearbox bravery club - membership 2!

Rupert

www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
 
you know what I say.....if it ain't broke don't fix it - so break it first :D
The fiddliest bit was lining up the thrust washers on the layshaft assembly before tapping the shaft back in - I'll remember that next time and take more care - and maybe make a slightly longer dummy shaft:I

'Harvey the RV'
 
I feel like I've arrived at the end of the party.

Having just got an overdrive box off ebay which has stood in the corner of a garage for a number of years how can I tell if it is okay ?

The shaft at the front has some up and down play and turns but apart from that it is a box of mystery

Any pointers ?

Thanks

O
 
I think you will always find a little movement in the input shaft - just a little. Do the gears turn freely and feel smooth as you turn the shaft. Take the top off the gearbox along with the thin plate underneath and have a nosey round for anything obvious like broken teeth or selector forks and tip the oil out into a bowl and check for any small bits of things that could have broken or worn. I believe the solenoid should give a satisfying clunk when released but is fairly quiet when energised - connect it to a battery and see what happens. Without stripping it down it is difficult to assess the condition properly so it has to be getting intimate with the innards or a leap of faith if what you can see and feel looks reasonable. I'm leaping so will bear the consequences or reap the benefits - the choice is yours :I


'Harvey the RV'
 
I concur...

basically the box iself should be fine. If anything is worn it will show up pretty quickly and should be relativly simple to fix.
If its hte OD Unit itself - you need to be a brave man to go in there!

you should be able to select all the gears manually and if you gently turn the input shaft you should be able to feel for anything broken.

Rupert

www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
 
Panky,

Having finally made it back to the forum after two full months (how embarrasing is that? Sorry!), I am left speechless after reading through your activities since late January. Mighty impressive!

I'd say this sort of bravery qualifies you to be considered a Viking! More viking than me, that's for sure!

And it feels good to be back on the forum. I'll be a good boy now and keep up my appearances :)

Greetings from cold Norway which is finally getting a bit milder (about bloody time!).

:) Jostein
 
You're speachless - that'll be the day;) Welcome back, don't you dare leave us like that again :D
Thanks for the support[8)]

'Harvey the RV'
 
Much to Tims dispair - not a HIF

DCP_8175.jpg
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But an early HS6 or maybe HD. It came without a needle but with Tim's advice I've tracked down what (hopefully) I need. Got a couple of fixed needles - AUD 1317 and 1541 - one is standard early MGB/TR the other is for modified with K&N an sporty exhaust. I'll have a dabble and see what's best :D

'Harvey the RV'
 
It'll be interesting to see how well it performs and when I change it for a HIF I'll let you guys know the difference it makes. I just like the look of the old carb - it kinda fits - if you know what I mean :I

Tim has produced what seems to be the ultimate SU manifold for the Rapier engine, I'll progress the developement of what it can handle stage by stage [}:)]

'Harvey the RV'
 
aaaaaaaaaarrggggghhhhhhhhhhhhh, its the dreaded early hs6, with fixed wear the jet out quick and fiddle about to centralize it needle and leaky fuel surging remote float [xx(]
at least with the long manifold its well away from the exhaust ;)
make sure the needles you get are for a 1 3/4 carb as they are unique to the bore size :)
a giant leap backward for commerkind :D but still better than a zenith/weber

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
Many thanks for your encouraging words, I'm touched - but you knew that already ;)

'Harvey the RV'
 
Been beavering away making the gearbox cross-member.

Started with what I had lying around, this grotty specimen spent a couple of years driven into the ground supporting a broken fence post.

Can you tell what it is yet



Cop chop - bend bend - weld weld - paint paint (I put a lot of paint on:I)



And finally in position. I found a couple more good reasons to swap out the input shaft and bell housing.
First - holes in gearbox and mounting points line up perfectly.



Second - the Rapier prop shaft fits with out modification :D



It is about 3/4" shorter than ideal - compare it to the marks on the original prop and you'll see what I mean.



I think it should be OK but if I hear howls of anguish from those in the know then I'll turn up a spacer to go between the flanges on the diff.



'Harvey the RV'
 
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