Back of the garage
- Thread starter Panky
- Start date
I had a think and did a bit of digging in an attempt to sort out the release bearing carrier problem. I knew that the Holbay engined cars used the bigger (Commer) clutch so perused Speedies catalogue to see what I could find and yes the was a special carrier for the GLS and Holbay. After a chat with the very helpful chap at Speedies I ordered one on Friday afternoon - it arrived Saturday morning - speedy or what [^]
You can see the difference in the bearing size but everything else is the same.
And fitted
The slave cylinder was knackered so I fitted a new one I won of eBay. The replacement was a Commer one so I had to slot the mounting holes to make it fit. Rapier one looks to have far less travel and larger diameter so I'll probably end up with a heavy clutch
Swapped over the inhibitor switches for 1st, 2nd and reverse - which is which - any one know, The one on the right hand side is very close to the cotter pin on the linkage - I had to cut the thread down on the pin to stop it fouling the body of the switch.
Took the oportunity to clean the OD box oil filter - quick swill in paraffin and a blast with the air line.
Then spent a couple of hours putting the box in position, what the pic doesn't show is the way the gearbox is sitting at an angle in relation to the engine, engine at 12 o'clock - gearbox at 10 o'clock. Looks like my engine was from the 'Arrow' range that had the engine canted over so it would sit lower, I think I'll be having fun with the linkages[V] and the flywheel cover - that doesn't fit so I'll have to make one. I'm hoping the angle won't affect the operation of the box - don't really fancy altering the engine mounts to tip the engine over to suit.
The back end is suspended on a piece of rope until I sort out a new cross member - BMM's techniques will come in handy :I
'Harvey the RV'
You can see the difference in the bearing size but everything else is the same.
And fitted
The slave cylinder was knackered so I fitted a new one I won of eBay. The replacement was a Commer one so I had to slot the mounting holes to make it fit. Rapier one looks to have far less travel and larger diameter so I'll probably end up with a heavy clutch
Swapped over the inhibitor switches for 1st, 2nd and reverse - which is which - any one know, The one on the right hand side is very close to the cotter pin on the linkage - I had to cut the thread down on the pin to stop it fouling the body of the switch.
Took the oportunity to clean the OD box oil filter - quick swill in paraffin and a blast with the air line.
Then spent a couple of hours putting the box in position, what the pic doesn't show is the way the gearbox is sitting at an angle in relation to the engine, engine at 12 o'clock - gearbox at 10 o'clock. Looks like my engine was from the 'Arrow' range that had the engine canted over so it would sit lower, I think I'll be having fun with the linkages[V] and the flywheel cover - that doesn't fit so I'll have to make one. I'm hoping the angle won't affect the operation of the box - don't really fancy altering the engine mounts to tip the engine over to suit.
The back end is suspended on a piece of rope until I sort out a new cross member - BMM's techniques will come in handy :I
'Harvey the RV'
good progress panky [^] coming along well [8D]
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
good stuff there panky! the bit of rope technique - why didn't I think of that?!
is there a chunk missing from your bellhousing?
I've been working on the "big book of overdrives" tonnight so if there is any other info you need just let me know.
the overdrive lockout switch is the one next to the gear linkage (the one on the right of your picture). Mine seemed to have a tad more clearance than that.
your overdrive/gearbox adaptor looks different to the one I used
I have a flat casting with a couple of screws in the bottom to mount to.
this thread has only been going 2 years?! [:0]
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
is there a chunk missing from your bellhousing?
I've been working on the "big book of overdrives" tonnight so if there is any other info you need just let me know.
the overdrive lockout switch is the one next to the gear linkage (the one on the right of your picture). Mine seemed to have a tad more clearance than that.
your overdrive/gearbox adaptor looks different to the one I used
I have a flat casting with a couple of screws in the bottom to mount to.
this thread has only been going 2 years?! [:0]
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
Nice one Panky...
Haven't been around for a while so nice to see Harvey getting some well earned tlc
Cazz... student commerade!!!!
Haven't been around for a while so nice to see Harvey getting some well earned tlc
Cazz... student commerade!!!!
Flippin' 'eck now I know why gearboxes are looked on as a black-box you shouldn't fiddle with [xx(] Still I've learned a lot today and tomorrow I hope to have everything re-built and bolted up. Pics to follow
Why is it that when a ball bearing and spring decide to make a bid for freedom they land in the most inaccessible place [V]
'Harvey the RV'
Why is it that when a ball bearing and spring decide to make a bid for freedom they land in the most inaccessible place [V]
'Harvey the RV'
its known as "murphys law" [B)] by now the bearing will be in Vladivostok and you will find the spring on one of jupiters moons
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
nice one panky, Gearboxes are's that scary so long as you take your time and are methodical. You need to have a gooood look at the manual before hand.
Did you remember to replace the "magic" that makes gearboxes work
I think you can get it from the same place as the smoke for the electrical system
http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
Rupert
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
Did you remember to replace the "magic" that makes gearboxes work
I think you can get it from the same place as the smoke for the electrical system
http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
Rupert
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
oh and I've been there with the detent springs and balls. I got a spare set as there are corners of my garage I don't want to go to....
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
Remember all that stuff I did last weekend - forget it and lets start again.
I learned that the Rapier gearbox wasn't the simple swap I'd hoped for so rather than fiddle about modifying bell housing and linkages I'd make a Rapier/Commer hybrid box[}] This meant stripping both boxes down to swap the input shaft to enable the Commer bell housing to be used - this way everything would line up and no mods required to anything else. I made some dummy selector shafts and one for the layshaft - I actually read the manual [^] and proceeded to take things apart
It was lucky I stripped the Rapier box because this is what fell out with the needle rollers [:0]
The brass ring should be in one piece like the one on the end of the Commer shaft.
The two shafts compared this extra length is why the linkage needs to be modified if you keep the Rapier set up.
Unexploded needle rollers held in with grease and ready to go back on.
Wont need the Holbay release bearing arm I bought now [V]
Back on at last. Linkage fitted back on a treat.
Just got to make a mounting cross member and shorten the prop and job done [^]
Edit a long time later:
Don't do it this way as the Commer 1st gear wheel doesn't mesh properly with the Rapier box. You need to fit the Rapier 1st gear wheel to the Commer input shaft. I learned the hard way - see later posts on gearbox re-build
'Harvey the RV'
I learned that the Rapier gearbox wasn't the simple swap I'd hoped for so rather than fiddle about modifying bell housing and linkages I'd make a Rapier/Commer hybrid box[}
] This meant stripping both boxes down to swap the input shaft to enable the Commer bell housing to be used - this way everything would line up and no mods required to anything else. I made some dummy selector shafts and one for the layshaft - I actually read the manual [^] and proceeded to take things apartIt was lucky I stripped the Rapier box because this is what fell out with the needle rollers [:0]
The brass ring should be in one piece like the one on the end of the Commer shaft.
The two shafts compared this extra length is why the linkage needs to be modified if you keep the Rapier set up.
Unexploded needle rollers held in with grease and ready to go back on.
Wont need the Holbay release bearing arm I bought now [V]
Back on at last. Linkage fitted back on a treat.
Just got to make a mounting cross member and shorten the prop and job done [^]
Edit a long time later:
Don't do it this way as the Commer 1st gear wheel doesn't mesh properly with the Rapier box. You need to fit the Rapier 1st gear wheel to the Commer input shaft. I learned the hard way - see later posts on gearbox re-build
'Harvey the RV'
Well done Panky. The VT on the side of the box, does that stand for 'very time consuming'
well done panky [^] full marks
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
Aw shucks thanks[8)] - and I didn't have too many bits left over either:I
There did seem to be a bit of wear here and there so I'm not expecting a totally silent box, but now I've had it to bits it doesn't hold any fear - the demon has been well and truly dashed [}]
'Harvey the RV'
There did seem to be a bit of wear here and there so I'm not expecting a totally silent box, but now I've had it to bits it doesn't hold any fear - the demon has been well and truly dashed [}
]'Harvey the RV'
quote:
Originally posted by martin maltas
Well done Panky. The VT on the side of the box, does that stand for 'very time consuming'
I was quite pleased - to strip both boxes and swap the bits over probably took about 5/6 hours, including dropping the box, over a couple of nights and this weekend, not bad for the first time and taking things very easy. I did refer to the manual but mainly learned on the run, the second time I didn't loose any detent balls [^]
Fitting the box was a lot easier this time for some reason - probably because of last weeks practice :I
On your point Rupert - hopefully I didn't flush away the magic that makes the cogs work when I swilled everything out with paraffin I didn't have any more in stock and anyway modern magic just ain't the same.
'Harvey the RV'
Originally posted by martin maltas
Well done Panky. The VT on the side of the box, does that stand for 'very time consuming'
I was quite pleased - to strip both boxes and swap the bits over probably took about 5/6 hours, including dropping the box, over a couple of nights and this weekend, not bad for the first time and taking things very easy. I did refer to the manual but mainly learned on the run, the second time I didn't loose any detent balls [^]
Fitting the box was a lot easier this time for some reason - probably because of last weeks practice :I
On your point Rupert - hopefully I didn't flush away the magic that makes the cogs work when I swilled everything out with paraffin
I didn't have any more in stock and anyway modern magic just ain't the same.'Harvey the RV'
