If you were fitting metal sections in then would be ok to do in bits but as your using fibre glass will be alot easier and look alot neater to fit it all plus no future rot
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Seems like its best to replace the hole sill! I will do the passenger side first and see how I get on with it. Depends on how bad things are behind it? but from what I can see and feel its solid!
Clean all the inner up with a flap wheel so its really clean metal,then squirt some tiger seal in an old cup, add a bit of paint thinners and stir it up till it goes like a runny milky/paste and is brushable. Then paint the inner sill in it. Let it dry for about half a day or 24hrs if you can spare. This will protect the inner from rust and allow you to apply thick beads of sealer to glue the panel in place
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Grind the whole panel off and put the new one on Alan. It's only when you have taken the old one off that will reveal the true state of the inner cill too hopefully it'l be in better shape than mine was
Can someone please tell how the rear wheel cylinders work? I know its sounds a daft question but they look like a sealed unit?:I Is there a way you can see if they work off the van?
If you tip it over on its side so the bleed niple faces up and fill the oblong part with wd40 and leave to soak. you also need to pull the metal cap end off, you will then see the end of the piston. you then need to put an air line to blow down the brake fluid connection.This will blow the piston out the end, make sure you wrap pleanty of rag round it so the piston dont blow accross the workshop. All this is so you can refurb and fit new seals. But you may find the internal bore is badly pitted as these suffer from corrosion when the rubber boot that should be on the back rots away
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