what servo?

O

old camper

0
Hi folks,
I think Smurf needs servo as my wife finds the brake pedal pressure a bit difficult.
Any advice about what ratio one to fit?
Thanks
Martin
 
I've been looking into it too (dodgy knee) and the 1.9 seems a good option, supposed to be good up to 2 litre engine, but no experience in practice.
 
I would recommend one. Although I was able to lock up the wheels on Rupert in Doncaster without a servo, the addition of a servo by Martin has inspired confidence, particularly if you normally drive a modern vehicle.
 
I agree, I've always advocated that one isn't necessary as the brakes are well up to the job, with a good shove, but can understand the need for some assistance in certain situations.
 
Does anyone have concerns over brake fade? A lot of hills here in Wales and I often pump going down hills always worrying there gonna overheat. They never have but used to get it a lot in my little 1L mk1 polo with non servo discs. Would adding the servo only encourage the driver to rely on something that should be used sparingly? Or am I worrying too much?

Tom
 
It's possible but a servo doesn't make the brakes and more efficient it just eases the pedal pressure, so if brakes are going to fade they will servo or not. Fade is caused by the fluid boiling made worse by the fact that it's hygroscopic and absorbs moisture s0 boils sooner. Flushing the system out with new fluid every couple of years is always a good idea but few ever do (including me)
 
We had serious brake fade in Wales with Rosie. I vowed never to go back there without fitting discs, she had the smaller brake setup of the PA.
 
Panky said:
I've been looking into it too (dodgy knee) and the 1.9 seems a good option, supposed to be good up to 2 litre engine, but no experience in practice.
Click to expand...

a "dodge" knee ....did you get that from driving commers all these years ;)
 
martin maltas said:
We had serious brake fade in Wales with Rosie. I vowed never to go back there without fitting discs, she had the smaller brake setup of the PA.
Click to expand...

had the same with my ford econoline 4 years ago in cornwall ...all the steep hills and small 10"drums front and rear and no servo just a simple small master cylinder > and the worst thing was that you just can't use the engine to slow down with a V8 5.9 litre wit C4 automatic transmission .....the brakes started to fade because everything was cooking and overheating ,even the brakefluid needed to be changed after 2 days ,because the color changed after boiling up in the wheelcilinders ...that Van still has the drums all around ,but the commer will get discs at least the front
I have been searching the net for pic's of the front drums installed ,open (just the bakingplate with the shoes and cylinder still mounted and with just the hub and spindle ) so I can figure out if the chevy Camaro vented discs will work on the commer hub ...or if I need to mount the chevy hub with "custom" bearings .....I will make my own adapterplate that will be mounted on the 4 org bolt holes of the backing plate ,and I will use Volvo brake calipers instead of the Camaro one's ...because the V70 calipers are the best around and dirt cheap ,the org. Camaro calipers are heavy and don't really work that well compared to the Volvo ones
but after mounting the discs I will mount a complete new master cylinder with servo of a modern car that will work with the combo I got then ;)

at least that's the plan ;)
 
When I was taught to drive, I was told to change down the gears and use the braking effect of the engine together with the brakes. This is essential when driving an early Commer with little drum brakes through the Yorkshire Dales to avoid fade, as well as holding it in a low gear going downhill. Today, this is frowned upon and drivers are taught to use only the brakes. Does this mean that there is a generation of drivers who would struggle with a drum brake setup?
 
I think not ,because when a young driver buys and oldtimer ...the old guys will tell you immediately about theirs and what to do with it under what circumstance :)

and I my case most of my oldtimers with drumbrakes have been automatic's and than its not possible to use the engine and change down gears
 
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Drum brakes do need a bit more care down big hills, having driven a Morris 1000 van through massive European mountain passes, an Austin 7 round Dartmoor as well as Smurf round Wales I find the the low gear downhill technique is essential (and a bit tricky if it jumps out of gear in second!) Sometimes a stop to let it all cool off is a good idea. The linings seem to loose friction when they get really hot but you get plenty of warning from the smell!
I'm thinking of the a servo so my wife will drive the Commer as well me as she wont find the pedal pressure so different from her modern.
 
For those of you who have concerns about brake fade ie the brake fluid boiling to the extent it turns to gas and you loose braking as a result you may well be interested in converting to silicon based brake fluid.
This does not absorb water and has a much higher boiling point. It also has the advantage of tolerating long periods of storage without causing rusting of wheel cylinders or master cylinders .
Convert with caution though as a complete strip down and replacement of all rubber components will be required
 
I must be honest I like to go through the gears when coming down a hill. Since The flexi hoses have been replaced braking us a lot better, no pulling to either side.
 
I have a healthy respect for my braking system and the limitations on older vehicles having a few quite literal near misses when loosing all brake twice in my life :(

Plus I do live in mid Wales - even using the engine to help i'm pumping like mad to try and reduce heat. As yet had not probs but 'normal' people will be using my van a lot.

Maybe a disc conversion is up my street - has anyone covered the conversion on here yet in detail?

Tom
 
Think I spotted the Australian chaps... Rav 4 discs I think seemed the way forward...

Hmm all food for thought.

Tom
 
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