Towing rig

I don't think my engineer will like any shortening of hubs so I may have to think about it. I thought long and hard about using a red motor as I have one here and the engine mounts line up, but I have this V8 reconditioned so will work out cheaper. I'm in Woy Woy and work in North Ryde so not too far from you if you need a hand some time.

I have a clubman with a supercharged toyota that I'll be running in 2014. Trying to get it registered as an ICV at the moment and am stuck at the emissions phase. Will be trying again soon. Also have a harley I want to sidecar race with and a Bloody Mary replica for sprints/hillclimbs. The Commer is in front of those two though as I race in April.

I tried to buy the steel needed for the fence to hide the Commer in the carport but everything is shut today. Plus it is too hot to get into the Commer so I won't waste my time. I'm hiding inside. :)
 
quote:
Originally posted by Suinnyboy

Re the Mitsubishi L300 front end, waste of time, they have torsion bar front suspension like most of the modern Jap vans. I have one as a daily drive and wish the front end had coils! The only Jap van I remember having coils was the old 70's Datsun/Nissan E20.

Cheers Stephen



True, the newer L300 have torsion bar front, but the earlier models have coils (see pic I posted earlier). Not sure what year they changed over, but the coil sprung ones have a steering box while the torsion bar ones have rack and pinion (according to the wrecker). I had a measure up today, the Commer front end is about ~1270 mm hub to hub, and the L300 is about ~1550, so the L300 is a no go without narrowing (big job). [xx(]

Damo, have you thought about an HR front end with front mounted rack? It would give you the stud pattern you were after. Would have to measure an HR front end first I guess.

Stephen, I was watching with interest how you got on with your disc brake project, but all work stopped! Heaps of Commodores and RAV4's in NZ, not so many Rovers or Humbers. So its great to hear you will be getting into it again. :p
 
quote:
Originally posted by kiwi_commer

Damo, have you thought about an HR front end with front mounted rack? It would give you the stud pattern you were after. Would have to measure an HR front end first I guess.




G'day Mate

Unfortunately the HR front end is too wide. I don't want to go too overboard on this so I'll keep the front end relatively simple. I'll look at the PCD adapters which give me an extra inch width and some thin 1936 chev wheels I have laying about to cut down on rolling resistance.

Had to move it into its new home today. I'm sick of pushing it around especially with one of the brakes sticking. Next time it moves it will be under its own steam.

Anybody want any engine/gearbox parts before I bin them?
 
Has anybody written up a step by step guide for dropping the front end and engine or is it self explanatory when I get under there?
 
quote:
Originally posted by dmulally

Has anybody written up a step by step guide for dropping the front end and engine or is it self explanatory when I get under there?


Don't know about dropping the engine, usually it comes out via the passenger door.

BazRockscropped.jpg

I am not a person, I am a number, 395 actually......Be seeing you!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
 
I have on my Commer a set up supplied by Hoppers stoppers Victoria ,which uses late Falcon disc brakes and with the hubs they made,it made the track 2 inches wider ,with 205 tyres on 6 inch rims I did have to make a small adjustment to the the flange under the doors to get full lock. It made the van much more stable .It is also fun to see people walk up to talk about the van ,you see them looking at it ,then say ,I always thought the front track was much smaller than the back
 
quote:
Originally posted by dmulally

Has anybody written up a step by step guide for dropping the front end and engine or is it self explanatory when I get under there?



Fairly straight forward. After removing the usual ancillaries in the engine bay, I support the van on a four post ramp and use the wheel free to lower the engine out. Remove the prop, exhaust, brake hoses, handbrake cable and steering linkage.
Next support the rear of the gearbox and undo the linkage and mounts. Then remove the top inner wishbone mounts and flip them over the top of the shocks. Lastly, remove the four bolts holding the crossmember to the chassis and lower away.
You could leave the engine and box sat on the floor and lift the body off.

IMG_4748.jpg


www.commervanspares.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/commervanspares
 


Engine mounted. As well as a one tonner diff. I cut the mounts off the commer diff before throwing it away. Next on the list is to get the correct flange for the tailshaft to mate to the diff and sort out a remote shifter to the gearbox which is a mile away. Wish I had an auto laying about.
 
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