Tin worm

Neil T

Active Member
68568090-55F8-4410-9EBD-0BCBE9DC7B31.jpegC29B31FA-853B-4405-8D29-33F34C36B2A8.jpegHello everyone, started on the n/s door bottom today a bit like doing a jigsaw puzzle but having to make your own pieces !, to be honest it’s not that bad and I’ve got the outer repair panel from Martin which I’m not looking forward to doing because of possible warping problems “any advice welcome”, one thing that’s going to help is I made a pair of “off set” tool thingys for my little fly press to reduce having butt joints.
 
Nice joddler and good job on the repairs. When you come to do the other side Martins panel should already be joddled (unless you are cutting it back). I usually hold the panel in place with tech screws or skin pins (if you use tech screws or self tapers drill the top hole slightly big and just nip the screws to allow for a little movement) then, as you've done with the repairs you've already done, tack every inch or so working first from the middle then each end in turn letting things cool every now and then to prevent warping. I wouldn't attempt full runs as it puts too much heat into the repair, just keep tacking until it's good and strong. The tacks you've already done look plenty strong enough and won't leave a lot of material to grind off which can also generate heat and warp the repair if you go too mad with the grinder. I've also found that flapper discs tend to take material from around the weld and thin it off so I've taken to using a proper disc, which you can have more control of, then finish it off with a coarse sanding disc.
Hopefully I'll follow my own advice as I'll be doing the same job soon along with the inner and outer steps on Harvey.
Good luck
 
Nice joddler and good job on the repairs. When you come to do the other side Martins panel should already be joddled (unless you are cutting it back). I usually hold the panel in place with tech screws or skin pins (if you use tech screws or self tapers drill the top hole slightly big and just nip the screws to allow for a little movement) then, as you've done with the repairs you've already done, tack every inch or so working first from the middle then each end in turn letting things cool every now and then to prevent warping. I wouldn't attempt full runs as it puts too much heat into the repair, just keep tacking until it's good and strong. The tacks you've already done look plenty strong enough and won't leave a lot of material to grind off which can also generate heat and warp the repair if you go too mad with the grinder. I've also found that flapper discs tend to take material from around the weld and thin it off so I've taken to using a proper disc, which you can have more control of, then finish it off with a coarse sanding disc.
Hopefully I'll follow my own advice as I'll be doing the same job soon along with the inner and outer steps on Harvey.
Good luck
Thanks for your advice, I’ve just watched a YouTube video and he was using his air line to cool each weld
 
View attachment 7996View attachment 7997Hello everyone, started on the n/s door bottom today a bit like doing a jigsaw puzzle but having to make your own pieces !, to be honest it’s not that bad and I’ve got the outer repair panel from Martin which I’m not looking forward to doing because of possible warping problems “any advice welcome”, one thing that’s going to help is I made a pair of “off set” tool thingys for my little fly press to reduce having butt joints.
The fold on the inner door bottom left side, should be vertical, not at an angle. May cause issues catching the door frame when shutting the door.
 
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