Starter

jimi

jimi

0
Have not used Commer for a while.
Bought new battery as couldn't start with crank handle.
Starter was always crud since I bought it and I want to know if it is dead if you can hear it click into the flywheel teeth but it is;
either turning really slow,
whining
or not moving at all.

I tried 2 batteries.

I put a cable from the negative battery terminal to the engine to check if bad earth.

I could also use some tips on starting from cold. Do you floor the throttle for a second or use choke?

I will get a tow soon to see if it will fire up and then if I need a new starter order one tomorrow.
 
Our Commer developed a lazy starter the other week.
Had one of these fitted:

batterylead-1.jpg


This was a common way of either extending the starter cable or just replacing a damaged section.

Junctions in heavy current cables are common failure points.
 
My starter was OK for a little while but developed the same symptoms as yours - it felt as if the battery was dead when in fact it was brand new. I needed a new starter so I fitted a hi-torque one and they are brilliant, not cheap but I recon worth the money[^] They draw less amps when cranking so more juice available to fire up the engine sparky bits. But first check the battery earth lead connection to the floor, it might be as simple as that.
Definitely choke for starting cold, a couple of pumps on the pedal to squirt a little petrol down the throat first - not too much or you'll flood it, full choke and try starting without touching the throttle.

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Summer's Coming
 
OK. I will check the earth as I just put another comment up about the spark visible where the crank handle meets the engine when you turn it over with the starter motor.

If I need a standard starter motor, do I have to look out for a Hillman starter like this one...:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/lucas-LRS122-starter-motor-fits-HILLMAN-/300465472484?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f52343e4#ht_615wt_883

What starter do I need if I want the standard kit?

Can anyone recommend a good price source for a hi torque or standard starter?
 
That ones off a spacevan so don't think it will fit a PB - unless someone knows differently:I
I think Martin Maltas sells new standard ones, I got my hi-toque one off Commerjules at Ratsport.

This is more like the standard type

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Sunbeam-Humber-Hillman-Singer-Alpine-starter-motor-/300513688707?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f802fc83

th_DCP_9918.jpg

Summer's Coming
 
Get your self a cheap amps clamp and clip it round the starter cable to the battery.Turn the engine over and see how many amps its pulling from the battery should be about 160amps but yours sounds like its pulling about 400amps.If so new starter needed;)

Space van wont fit early commer as the flywheels are different on the ring gear;)

th_IMG00232-20100618-1221.jpg

th_icon_welder.gif
 
Bought that greedbay one Panky suggested above for a couple of quid. Looks a bit tired, but it might work.
Got a tow tonight and the bugger wouldn't start. It just coughed a few pints of fuel all over the road from the brass overflow on the top of the carb. Why do they do that? (Good job I gave up smoking). I think I had the choke on and pumped the throttle a bit too much. It has always stunk of fuel and the consumption used to be appalling.
 
Even if you've flooded the engine I wouldnt expect much or any from the carb overflow, normally.
Sounds like your float may be punctured and or the float needle valve faulty or the float tab just not set correctly, allowing too much petrol into the carb.
 
I know that its been said that fuel came through enogh to go onto road, but thought that this may be relevant re starting problem.

Avenger I own was once difficult to start especially if was left standing. Once it started no problems. If I filled pump to carb pipe with fuel would start easier, as if fuel had been leaking out invisibly somewhere. I stumbled on cure by fitting a new starter as mine had a bad bendix but turned engine Ok [or so I thought]. New starter spun over quickly and engine immediately sprung into life > took me a few minutes to work out that new starter was faster than old and so cam and thus mechanical fuel pump was working better. Fuel being sucked from tank more effectively than before made engine starting easier.
I've since had problems with newer fuels, which 'go off' quickly and have also caused sticking needle valves and fuel pump and stromberg leaks. Once fuel 'goes off' engine doesn't kick forward as much as it did to supplement turning force from starter
I now try to keep min fuel in infrequently started cars and use additive that such as Frosts sell that help stop fuel going off prematurely, then put in fresh fuel when using vehicle regularly again
 
Thanks for your help.
Camper under tarpaulin for a few weeks till I build a car port. Will post pictures as I have to push the van in sideways using scaffold poles as rollers. Works a treat. Hopefully I will only use the car port for 6 month periods each winter so I don't have to jack it up onto the rollers every time I need to go on a school run. Otherwise I will have to build a sideways launching system on rails like they use for submarines, or mount motor driven 'jockey-wheel' castors on the chassis like something out of Thunderbirds. I've been wanting to patent a portable vehicle moving system for ages to move badly parked cars blocking my space.
 
Rear steering is all thats needed then you can unlock the back wheels and drive the van in sideways!!! im a genius[^]

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labottomy!
 
http://www.powertoolwarehouse.co.uk/sealey-ws454-wheel-dolly-set-454kg-capacity.html
doesn't help you with the automated aspect though :)

this makes it seem easy but only with a nice workshop floor!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikPgGs6qq_c
 
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