thats not a bush....
thats a bush....
"Atheism is a non-prophet organisation"
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
thats a bush....
"Atheism is a non-prophet organisation"
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
removal of relay lever bushes
- Thread starter commerchris
- Start date
Enigma I have the workshop manual that talks through the pin and bush replacement so maybe I can scan it and get it put on if you want.
Cheers for the advice, looks like I might have to plumb for the repair option then[B)]
Cheers for the advice, looks like I might have to plumb for the repair option then[B)]
Ok, did this today.
Tapers on ball joints came out of relay easy with the extraction tool (big mallet, I am reliably informed this prevents damage that can be caused by the extraction tools
It worked well).
Four bolts holding the internediate relay on came off easy (I had scrubbed the thread and WD40 in the week).
Pin slid out of bushes easy (duh should if it had play in it). Spring in really good nick still, phew haven't got another speedies didn't have them.
Right circlip off the pin and pop that out.............ah..........this is tight isn't it..........very tight.........is that possible????
Ok so the pin only came out of the relay lever by heating up the lever with a blow torch and using a 12 ton press[B)]. This took a while and after 10 mins it moved.........a bit. This is really hot now better let it cool.........
I know put the new bushes in. Old ones out by cutting them through then using a small 'punch'. Clean it all up and new bushes in (line up the hole for the grease).
The bushes needed reaming but just a bit.
Put pin back in press and finally it budged a bit more and with some gentle persuaion (the press) it gave up and came out the lever.
Seemed to be the bottom of the pin that had worn on the bush.
[/IMG]
All back together. Ah.... how do I get the shoulder of the pin in the tab washer with the spring tension....... right circlip back out push pin through a bit get tension up and washer down over shoulder, compress and put the circlip back in. seemed to be the easiest way (only way?)
All back in and it steers lovely now (although I thought it was Ok before I realise that I just hadn't driven a vehicle like this before and assumed that occasional 'I'm going this way was part of it).
[/IMG]
Noticed while doing it the steering arm was fouling on the 'deflector shield' for the engine bay when far right or left. Is this common? Put a self tapper in to hold it back and is now well clear.
[/IMG]
Big thanks to my friendly mechanic who I am learning all this from. King pins next but maybe after commerfest.
Tapers on ball joints came out of relay easy with the extraction tool (big mallet, I am reliably informed this prevents damage that can be caused by the extraction tools
It worked well).Four bolts holding the internediate relay on came off easy (I had scrubbed the thread and WD40 in the week).
Pin slid out of bushes easy (duh should if it had play in it). Spring in really good nick still, phew haven't got another speedies didn't have them.
Right circlip off the pin and pop that out.............ah..........this is tight isn't it..........very tight.........is that possible????
Ok so the pin only came out of the relay lever by heating up the lever with a blow torch and using a 12 ton press[B)]. This took a while and after 10 mins it moved.........a bit. This is really hot now better let it cool.........
I know put the new bushes in. Old ones out by cutting them through then using a small 'punch'. Clean it all up and new bushes in (line up the hole for the grease).
The bushes needed reaming but just a bit
.Put pin back in press and finally it budged a bit more and with some gentle persuaion (the press) it gave up and came out the lever
.Seemed to be the bottom of the pin that had worn on the bush.
All back together. Ah.... how do I get the shoulder of the pin in the tab washer with the spring tension....... right circlip back out push pin through a bit get tension up and washer down over shoulder, compress and put the circlip back in. seemed to be the easiest way (only way?)
All back in and it steers lovely now (although I thought it was Ok before I realise that I just hadn't driven a vehicle like this before and assumed that occasional 'I'm going this way was part of it).
Noticed while doing it the steering arm was fouling on the 'deflector shield' for the engine bay when far right or left. Is this common? Put a self tapper in to hold it back and is now well clear
.
Big thanks to my friendly mechanic who I am learning all this from. King pins next but maybe after commerfest.
good stuff, I do like a real life "how to" manuals tend to be written using theory, brand new cars and not much home garage skills.
Just out of interest what were the symptoms that made you change the bushes? I've never driven another commer so I don't know if Jessica is right or not!
Rupert
"Atheism is a non-prophet organisation"
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
Just out of interest what were the symptoms that made you change the bushes? I've never driven another commer so I don't know if Jessica is right or not!
Rupert
"Atheism is a non-prophet organisation"
www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
The MOT man said it would fail next year if I didn't do it[B)]
If the van is jacked up just grab the lever and watch the pivot to see if there is any movement. Because of the way the spring loads the top I presume (particualrly given how tight the pin was at the bottom in the lever) you would see the movement at the top although you might see a bit at the bottom between the lever and the pin housing. It was only a small rock really but now it is completely solid. I could also notice by rocking the steering wheel when under load to feel the amount of play, although there was still a similar amount of rock there was no 'extra clunnk rock' at the end of each rock (not sure that makes sense).
I only had a short drive home but now when conering I don't have to 'adjust', it is way more positive especially on those longer, medium speed ones. Also before if you caught a bump in the road at the wrong angle it wavered a bit sometimes. There again the new tyres made a huge difference too.
If the van is jacked up just grab the lever and watch the pivot to see if there is any movement. Because of the way the spring loads the top I presume (particualrly given how tight the pin was at the bottom in the lever) you would see the movement at the top although you might see a bit at the bottom between the lever and the pin housing. It was only a small rock really but now it is completely solid. I could also notice by rocking the steering wheel when under load to feel the amount of play, although there was still a similar amount of rock there was no 'extra clunnk rock' at the end of each rock (not sure that makes sense).
I only had a short drive home but now when conering I don't have to 'adjust', it is way more positive especially on those longer, medium speed ones. Also before if you caught a bump in the road at the wrong angle it wavered a bit sometimes. There again the new tyres made a huge difference too
.