Re spray/ paint
- Thread starter andrew
- Start date
Just to add my 2 pennysworth
We have painted several vans (sorry nowhere near Drotwich though) and over 100 classics.
Just like Barry & Chris say the key is preparation, preparation, preparation.
To illustrate its a little like painting a wall in your house, what takes the time is repointing the brickwork and plastering, putting the paint onto a mirror smooth surface is just the final step. Its getting the mirror smooth surface that takes the time.
2nd point: We once restored a 1920s car. The owner wanted it brush painted just as it would have been originally. We did all the prep but didnt feel confident to do the brush painting so got a guy in to do it. He did a great job, but boy did it take a lot longer than spraying, and he wouldnt even let us put it in the paint oven between coats.
So to summarise you can get a great job with brushes but it does take longer.
But in either event the prep must be spot-on. When its perfect by eye, then close your eye and see if its perfect by finger. Then put on a guide coat to see any other imperfections because any imperfections you see in a guide coat will be magbified many times by the gloss coat.
Cheers
Jules
RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
We have painted several vans (sorry nowhere near Drotwich though) and over 100 classics.
Just like Barry & Chris say the key is preparation, preparation, preparation.
To illustrate its a little like painting a wall in your house, what takes the time is repointing the brickwork and plastering, putting the paint onto a mirror smooth surface is just the final step. Its getting the mirror smooth surface that takes the time.
2nd point: We once restored a 1920s car. The owner wanted it brush painted just as it would have been originally. We did all the prep but didnt feel confident to do the brush painting so got a guy in to do it. He did a great job, but boy did it take a lot longer than spraying, and he wouldnt even let us put it in the paint oven between coats.
So to summarise you can get a great job with brushes but it does take longer.
But in either event the prep must be spot-on. When its perfect by eye, then close your eye and see if its perfect by finger. Then put on a guide coat to see any other imperfections because any imperfections you see in a guide coat will be magbified many times by the gloss coat.
Cheers
Jules
RatSport www.ratsport.co.uk
Absolutely nail on the head Panky and Jules.
Take the area around the rust down to bare metal so you know you've got all of it. once the rust has been ground out treat and prime the area, if it's in the middle of a panel you may need a thin skim of filler to raise it back up to the level of the surrounding paint.
I've got a compressor similar to this and it provided enough air to spray my van
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ranger-64-air-compressor
You will also need a decent spray gun and air line to go with it.
I used cellulose paint, it dries quickly and gives a nice finish after a good cut and polish. I used a couple of litres of paint mixed with anti bloom thinners in two coats, but I wasn't changing the colour - you will probably need more if you do.
As a footnote my paint job isn't what you would call the best:I It's easy to give advise but actually putting it into practice does take skill.
Summer's Coming
I've got a compressor similar to this and it provided enough air to spray my van
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/ranger-64-air-compressor
You will also need a decent spray gun and air line to go with it.
I used cellulose paint, it dries quickly and gives a nice finish after a good cut and polish. I used a couple of litres of paint mixed with anti bloom thinners in two coats, but I wasn't changing the colour - you will probably need more if you do.
As a footnote my paint job isn't what you would call the best:I It's easy to give advise but actually putting it into practice does take skill.
Summer's Coming