Hello everyone, I’ve just been reading some old threads about fitting electric fuel pumps and fitting as low as possible and close to the tank is mentioned could someone explain why this is recommended please.
Most pumps are deigned to have a flooded suction so mounting it higher than the tank and the other end of the van would make the pump struggle to pull the fuel through. I fitted a Facet cube type pump on a bracket attached to the tank fixing bolts just below the half way level on the tank and it works fine, others have mounted them on the rear number plate panel with similar results. Fitted at the tank end also means the pump isn't susceptible to engine heat. Make sure you get a low pressure pump too as the higher output ones can overcome the float valve on the carb, it's also a good idea to install an inertia cut out switch in case of a bump.
Before I go steaming in and buy an electric fuel pump and related things has anyone tried using an inline one way check valve to stop any fuel drain back ??
Not had any issue with fuel draining back in Bonnie (she still has the original pump and starts on the button even after weeks idle), the valves in the mechanical pump should act as a non-return valve. I would look at your current pump before anything else, re-build kits are available if needed.
It’s a new lift pump , best explain the symptoms it always starts first time no problem there but it gets fuel starvation symptoms spluttering 3-4 min’s down the road it never cuts out or stops and it clears after a minute or so with no further problems, but if I stop for half hour plus I get the same problem again ??
It sounds like fuel vaporisation, have you got a fuel filter in the engine bay? If the fuel line is still attached to the top of the radiator cowling extend the pipe and run it low down in front of the rad, this can sort it out in many cases.
It could be that ?. my fuel pipe runs below / front of radiator and it’s insulated from lift pump to carb, I’ve got an inline filter just before the lift pump
It should be OK there, does it pick up any debris at all? if not try removing it and see how the van runs - they can act as a heat sink and cause the fuel to evaporate inside.
Yes the filter is doing its job I’ll try moving it, the other thing I should have mentioned it’s only recently started doing it !, that’s now making me think lift pump ? , what you think ??
It's not unheard of for new components to be faulty, take it apart and have a look at the valves to check for debris or damage. Have a sniff at your dipstick If if smells of petrol then the diaphragm could be holed letting fuel into the sump. It only takes a tiny pin hole.
So fitted the facet pump today and it sounds really nosy are yours the same ?, can’t hear it when the engine is running though going on test drive tomorrow hopefully it’s sorted the fuel starvation symptoms
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As you know i ignored my head and brought a facet fuel pump which I fitted the other day and been on a test drive today and I still have the same problem , see my post 5 oct for details of the problem , any ideas cus I all out of them ???. I’ve had a look at the manual lift pump inside and that’s fine !!.
Have you by-passed the mechanical pump completely?
Try disconnecting the fuel pipe at the carb and see how much the new pump is delivering to rule out any blockages. If that is OK then I would turn your attention to the HT leads, coil, condenser or rotor arm as those symptoms could also point to an ignition problem.
I’ve removed the manual pump and fit blanking plate a new inline filter is at the tank with the facet pump now, I did check the flow that was fine. Surely it can’t be debris because the rough running is always a similar distance traveled and the same yesterday it only lasts a few minutes it drove perfect again after !. I also tried pulling the choke on while it was struggling but made no difference , Do you agree the symptoms sound like fuel starvation the engine doesn’t stop even if I pull up it will tick over. Do you think it could still be ignition it’s not back firing and no sudden loss of power ??.
If the float valve in the carb is sticking closed then it could be just running off what's in the float chamber and then the valve opens to refill the chamber, it might be a good idea to open the carb up and check.
It could be an ignition issue, next time it happens try pulling the leads off one at a time to see if the engine note changes as imay be a dodgy lead or plug with an intermittent fault.