Propshaft question - BMM?
- Thread starter Razor7
- Start date
Excuse me... err sorry.
Thanks, Racer. May give it a jolly could clean and try some 'oylstick' a supa-dupa remedy on the frost website. Says it can sort out flange/gasket oil leaks/cracks....? Will give it a whizz and report back.
If the o/d leaks a bit, i can cope with that. Let's be honest most commers run with a 'wet' engine!!
Thanks, Racer. May give it a jolly could clean and try some 'oylstick' a supa-dupa remedy on the frost website. Says it can sort out flange/gasket oil leaks/cracks....? Will give it a whizz and report back.
If the o/d leaks a bit, i can cope with that. Let's be honest most commers run with a 'wet' engine!!
I will be round for some welding lessons tomorrow Woolfy 
Didn,t anybody tell you KTM,s are rear wheel steering
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
Didn,t anybody tell you KTM,s are rear wheel steering
"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
quote:
Originally posted by Enigma
ahh, miss you aswell panky....''''group hug''''''
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHA!!!
Originally posted by Enigma
ahh, miss you aswell panky....''''group hug''''''
Right I have spent the whole afternoon wiring up the switch, isolator, relay solenoid etc. and putting all the other bits and pieces back on too... Although she still has all 4 wheels blocked up. I did bleed the clutch and then manage to put the new gearbox in neutral. (it had been left in gear). I then selected 4th(?) and thought i may get a noise from the new solenoid...? but silence. So how do i go about testing the solenoid etc. or do I have to wait until the van's running?
Help anyone?
Cheers Ray
Help anyone?
Cheers Ray
Hi Ray me again I did a quick Google search & found this from mg forum
not sure if it's any use can't be much different surely
Test it first before digging in to it or spending money.
The gear lever switch and wiring is a bit flaky as it is continually waggled about on the gear lever, and it should be fused as Garth says. On UK spec cars the place to do this is where the two whites in the main harness go to a 4-way bullet by the fusebox. There should be two more whites in the other side, one goes to the fuel pump in the rear harness and the other to the OD in the gearbox harness. The fuel pump should be fused as well, both mine have suffered damaged harnesses in PO hands. If you get two in-line cylinder-type fuse holders with bullets on the ends, and two 2-way bullet connectors, you can fuse them individually. If you get one fuse and one 4-way you can fuse both circuits with the same fuse. Use the standard 17 amp rated 35 amp blow, they are perfectly adequate to protect the wiring, there are two spares in the fuse box, and it avoids a proliferation of fuse types.
You can test electrical continuity of the OD circuit with either a test-lamp, voltmeter or ammeter. Open the circuit at the above conenctors and insert the tester. Turn on the ignition, select an OD gear, and turn the manual switch on. You should see the test-lamp light or the volt-meter register 12v, but these are basically go/no-go tests. If you use an ammeter you should see about 800mA, which check the resistance of the circuit as well as confirming continuity. *Make sure* the test-lamp goes out or voltmeter or ammeter cease registering when you take it out of an overdrive gear, on UK cars you must move the gear lever across the gate away from the 3/4 plane to do this. Move it in and out several times to test the lockout switch. When you are happy with that put it back in overdrive and slide the manual switch back and fore and make sure that breaks and makes the circuit reliably as well.
If all that works take it and test it.
Sybhil
not sure if it's any use can't be much different surely
Test it first before digging in to it or spending money.
The gear lever switch and wiring is a bit flaky as it is continually waggled about on the gear lever, and it should be fused as Garth says. On UK spec cars the place to do this is where the two whites in the main harness go to a 4-way bullet by the fusebox. There should be two more whites in the other side, one goes to the fuel pump in the rear harness and the other to the OD in the gearbox harness. The fuel pump should be fused as well, both mine have suffered damaged harnesses in PO hands. If you get two in-line cylinder-type fuse holders with bullets on the ends, and two 2-way bullet connectors, you can fuse them individually. If you get one fuse and one 4-way you can fuse both circuits with the same fuse. Use the standard 17 amp rated 35 amp blow, they are perfectly adequate to protect the wiring, there are two spares in the fuse box, and it avoids a proliferation of fuse types.
You can test electrical continuity of the OD circuit with either a test-lamp, voltmeter or ammeter. Open the circuit at the above conenctors and insert the tester. Turn on the ignition, select an OD gear, and turn the manual switch on. You should see the test-lamp light or the volt-meter register 12v, but these are basically go/no-go tests. If you use an ammeter you should see about 800mA, which check the resistance of the circuit as well as confirming continuity. *Make sure* the test-lamp goes out or voltmeter or ammeter cease registering when you take it out of an overdrive gear, on UK cars you must move the gear lever across the gate away from the 3/4 plane to do this. Move it in and out several times to test the lockout switch. When you are happy with that put it back in overdrive and slide the manual switch back and fore and make sure that breaks and makes the circuit reliably as well.
If all that works take it and test it.
Sybhil
Enigma
0
Ray, your new soloniod only had about 3'' of cable so I assume you had to join it..put it in 4th and switch the o-drive on. now get a voltmeter or test lamp and put the plus on this 'join' and the negative to earth (the exhaust/gearbox etc) if you have power then refer to the section of manual that Panky scanned to check the solonoid is adjusted correctly...it won't work if not!
Enigma
0
quote:
Originally posted by Enigma
read through page 1 of 'gearboxes & overdrives' you'll see how mine is[8D]
If you are not getting power through to the solonoid you will have to trace back to the switch and find out why...
If you over adjust the solonoid, basically it will basically manually turn the overdrive on all the time....I know, I did it lol
Originally posted by Enigma
read through page 1 of 'gearboxes & overdrives' you'll see how mine is[8D]
If you are not getting power through to the solonoid you will have to trace back to the switch and find out why...
If you over adjust the solonoid, basically it will basically manually turn the overdrive on all the time....I know, I did it lol
Printed off Panky's scanned in pages (Thanks Panky) and had a go at setting the solenoid etc. All seemed ok... But I won't know till I get her running.
Although I have selected 4th with her ignition on and I can't get a 'live' to the soleniod?? - any ideas anyone??? Checked wiring and it all seems to be right??
Also what oil do I put in the gearbox??
Any comments as always much appreciated.
Ray
Although I have selected 4th with her ignition on and I can't get a 'live' to the soleniod?? - any ideas anyone??? Checked wiring and it all seems to be right??
Also what oil do I put in the gearbox??
Any comments as always much appreciated.
Ray
Enigma
0
halfords classic 20/50 about £16.99
you'll just have to chase the wring back to the relay see if you getting power there, if not make sure the terminal on the fuse box is actually live when ignition swithched on, check the fuse in fusebox....I have an inline fuse between fusebox and relay with a 20amp fuse in, check that if you have one
Try running a piece of wire direct from the battery to the solonoid, that will also eliminate a faulty solonoid if it 'clicks' then its definatly a wiring issue...
make sure the relay has a good earth to the bodywork, its earthed via the plate the fixing bolt goes through,,,scratch a bit of paint off to make sure....hope all this helps and sorry if I am stating the obvious
you'll just have to chase the wring back to the relay see if you getting power there, if not make sure the terminal on the fuse box is actually live when ignition swithched on, check the fuse in fusebox....I have an inline fuse between fusebox and relay with a 20amp fuse in, check that if you have one
Try running a piece of wire direct from the battery to the solonoid, that will also eliminate a faulty solonoid if it 'clicks' then its definatly a wiring issue...
make sure the relay has a good earth to the bodywork, its earthed via the plate the fixing bolt goes through,,,scratch a bit of paint off to make sure....hope all this helps and sorry if I am stating the obvious