Painting

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ZoeandDave

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Hi Folks,

Dave here from ZoeandDave. Thanks for the great welcome you have given us. Lovely to come across a wonderful community like this.

I need some advice from you all regarding painting our Colonel.
We have provisionally decided to have the cab resprayed professionally (eventually), but we want to do everything else by hand, so we will do that ourselves.

Firstly, I need to know what sort of abrasive paper to use for a rub down and how far we need to take it back (do we need to go to the metal, or just make it as smooth as possible).

Do we need to prime it? What's the best or correct paint to use? What are the best brushes? etc.

Thanks in advance for any advice you may have.

Cheers

Dave
 
If you are having it done professionally I have found the people I have approached wanted to do as much of the work as possible - their finish relies on a fantastic start as it were! May be worth checking prices with and without prep first?

I was considering hand painting the PA at one stage and a contact told be there are special brushes that have bristles made of something akin to fishing line to leave minimal marks; you will need a lot of polishing on a hand finished paint though
 
Wet & Dry sandpaper working down from courser grain to finest - can finsh with a ultra fine one used wet just as a polishing skim.

You shouldn't have to take it down to bare metal - as long as what's there already is stuck on well and surface is well sanded (have trouble with mine as previous resprayer didn't sand down properly so pressure washers can flake paint off in places[V])

If you're brush painting there are some signwriting techniques for minimising brush marks - involves feathering surface with very tip of a ultra soft make up style blusher brush while paint still wet (haven't tried it with anything cellulose based so can't say if it works for that) It is fairly tricky to get a really good finish but then that also applies to trying to spray with lots of aerosol cans if you don't have access to a spray gun.

Cellulose can be a build a more high gloss finish but acrylic based more stable as inert and won't react with what's already underneath - and you can re paint in years to come if you fancy a change without worrying about wrinkly reactions. You can finish with acrylic laquer top coat - but haven't hand done laquer so don't know how well it would work. If you have a good local motor factors that mixes paint they should be able to recommend a paint that brushes well - we lost ours recently here so have lost best source of advice[V]

You'd need to prime any bare metal you reach during sanding, otherwise o.k. - as long as there are no traces of oil or other such gack

Main trick is to make sure you have good weather - too damp or cold and you'll get a lovely sea mist effect blooming over your new paint - direct sun or strong wind can make things dry too quickly making blending sections more difficult - and if you are outdoors doing it - have fun picking out the mozzies:D;)

Will try and find some time later to get pics of tent as promised as has some nice little dandy logos which might prove interesting:)

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
Check this out:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0707_1962_ford_falcon_budget_paint_job/index.html

Thats how we're doing ours.

"You were only supposed to blow the bloody tyres up!"
 
Everyone will have their preferred way i guess.As long as you take yer time and dont rush you'll be fine.
Like studiocommer says, the correct enviroment is essential to a good finish, a damp day means youll most likely see moisture applied with the paint.Best to paint indoors, wind will ruin the paint mix if your using air gun or rattle cans.
I usually prep the paint with scotchbrite,it takes off the glossiness and provides a key for the paint to adhere to_Obviously if youve had to use filler then youll cut this back with something like 80 grit paper then to 180, then tidy it with something like a 600 grit wet flat working to a 1200 grit.Apply some primer lightly over any filled areas just to see if theres any proud edges which need feather edging further to prevent any evidence of cosmetic work.
After applying your paint you'll apply a laquer, this when hard will be wet flat with a 1200 grit then youll buff the paint to a shine.

:)
 
now that would be great fun:D

pics of the colonels' camping kindred...
http://s209.photobucket.com/albums/bb50/studiocommer/dandy/

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
My problem is not putting the paint on, it's getting the old stuff off! As I've said, I think it was applied with a yard broom. It's almost a milimetre thick in places!
I HATE RUBBING DOWN!!!
(but as it won't start, I might not have to finish it!!)
 
I think brush painting cellulose is definitely for the experts but on the other hand I've heard of people getting excellent results with coach paint and a roller. I guess you should experiment on something to see what results you can achieve with different methods of applying the paint on something less valuable than the Colonel - like the family hatchback, you could have a matching set of camper and car :)

'Harvey the RV'
 
Santahul - that's an amazing link... reckon I'll have a go at that myself.

I'm guessing that thinned down Hammerite would do the same job, do you reckon?
 
I recently used 2 pack acrylic. I sprayed it and the results were superb. Very high gloss and good pigmentation, (the white stripe over red on the PO van).
According to the tin, you can brush apply this. Cost about £40 to do a whole car [:0]

IMG_4729.jpg
 
2 pack definitely gives best high gloss finish and a really durable paint - does brush well, just gets more scary when you start spraying it about. Can you still buy it as a member of the public? there was talk of big restrictions on it 'cos of the dangers[xx(]

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
I have also been eyeing up similar methods (claims to be cheaper) but take a look at the pictures on here too!

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html
 
Thanks for the pics of the Dandy trailer tent...those logos have certainly given us some ideas for the final look and colours.

Thanks too for all of the advice about painting techniques. We are really excited about having a go at it now.:D
 
Glad they were of some use - can do a tidied up image of the dandy man if you wanted one as a little postery type thing somewhere - and let me know if you want any further pics of tent colour scheme;)

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
commer walk thru and admin: The one I linked to and the $50 paint job are the same methods, both were based on a post on the Moparts forum. The one I linked to though was where a professional bodyshop looked at the method and applied their own knowledge to improve it so is the one I intend to go by.

This is a link to the English version of the paint. It's the same as used in the guides, just with a different name.
http://www.combicolor.co.uk/?action=viewcategory&catid=1

"You were only supposed to blow the bloody tyres up!"
 
I painted our commer in cellulose, in the dark, with a torch on a cold damp misty evening, under a tree.. basically, badly, and wrong.

05-06river_aime.JPG.jpg


came out ok considering .. but needed a LOT of flatting back and polishing.

avoid going back to bare metal if the existing paint is unbroken and sound, resprays always bubble through quicker than original paint.
 
I sprayed my Mini but it looked like I had used a textured roller and flame red artex [xx(] After a week of wet and dry and a lecky buffer it looked OK, but then I started to bleed the brakes and brake fluid got involved and it doesn't like cellulose - and I made a mess :(

'Harvey the RV'
 
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