paint advice please

sistervation

sistervation

0
Rupert has developed a few paint bubbles and bits of rust which I'd like to deal with sooner rather than later, but like the whole of the rest of what I should be doing to look after him, I don't have the first clue what I'm meant to do - from the colours of the paint to whether it's something I could do myself or whether I should find someone to do it for me. So, here are all my questions:
1) Previous owner tells me the white is L87 white pearl, but said the green is the original and I should be able to find the code in the paperwork. Only thing I found was a 1999 receipt for Talbot seacrest green 18839 - do these sound right?
2) If you think I can do it myself, any suggestions where I should get the paint from
3) If you think I can do it myself, is there anyone out there within reach of me ( i.e. near Martin Maltas) who would be willing to show me what to do, or can point me to good online tutorials
4)If you think I shouldn't do it myself, can you recommend someone near here to go to?
Thanks!
 
Hi. There will be advice from people a lot more skilled than me along to help. I took mine to local body spray company who were helpful. I'm going to rub back the rust (most pf mine is edges) treat with hammerite krust, i was also recommended feritan as both convert rust and seal it so doesn't have to be primed immediately etc. Hold fire as you will get some good advice here
 
There are two kinds of rust. You have to poke both of them with a pointy thing. I use a tungsten carbide tile cutter.

The easier kind to deal with is what is commonly known as "surface rust". If you poke it hard you don't get a hole. Just rub back the paint to bare metal, treat the rust as above, maybe a bit of filler, and repaint.

The other kind, which is much more difficult to handle is rust that starts behind the metal, and has come all the way through. Most vehicle rust is like this. If you poke it you will get a hole. The holes have to be repaired preferably by welding in new metal. Unfortunately many of these holes have been repaired by smearing on some filler and painting over. The problem here is that water will inevitably get between the filler and metal from behind and push the paint or filler off by capillary action, hence the bubbles. It is possible to get away with this kind of minor repair, but only if you can seal the back ever so thoroughly with something like Waxoyl or bitumen paint. Very often you can't easily get access to the back so this doesn't happen.

So first thing to do I'm afraid is to start poking the bubbles. Then if you could show us some photos of the results, we may be able to suggest a way forward.

I know nothing much about painting.
 
It always looks a lot worse before it gets better so don't be afraid to do as Colin suggests. Rupert is a fine van so best to tackle these things before they develop
 
Probably a stupid question but would it be a good idea to waxoyl the inside before insulating it and fitting units etc. Just that one of my jobs is updating the interior and I will upgrade the insulation from the silver bubble wrap for a better type?
 
S0updragon said:
Would it be a good idea to waxoyl the inside before insulating it and fitting units etc?
Click to expand...

Anywhere that water could get out from the inside (ie joins, fixings, holes with filler on the outside) should be completely waterproofed from the inside. Water will get to all sorts of places behind the bodywork by condensation, window leaks, capillary action through the cracks etc. For instance I fill any internal seams I can get at with waxoyl, warm it up with a heat gun and watch it getting sucked into the cracks, then when dry paint bitumen paint over it. Once done it lasts for years.
 
Your Brother is your man for advice on this job.....but of course Mr Maltas would be highly recomended...not sure about rubbing back to bare metal.....paint aint what it use to be....Try to keep as much original paint as possible.
 
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