New Starter motor

Hi Jim, yes that should work ok! The only other wire that will need moving is the starter wire from the ignition/push button to the old solenoid, to the connector on the new solenoid. As far as i remember you shouldn't have to alter the alternator wiring. I only did mine because I wanted to dispose of any unwanted parts and have straight through wiring, without any unwanted connections. The difference in cranking is amazing, sounds almost like a modern And Starts on the button!! :D:D
 
Great thanks - isn’t the starter wire the trigger wire? Can’t really remember what it look like in there
Hate wiring :) guess would like to clean it all up so single long cable from battery to starter, trigger/ignition wire to starter solenoid and then one thick cable from the alternator back again to the battery (got a new style alternator)
 
The starter/trigger wire should be white and red if it is the same as the earlier Commer. I ran a new starter cable direct from the battery to the starter, just making sure that it can't rub and short out on the body anywhere. I'm sure I also re-located the power lead from the alternator and the lead to the fuse box to the + on the battery. It cleans up the wiring and is less for dodgy connections. Hope it all goes well. ;)
 
Sounds easy enough. The one I got from Ratsport was a like for like swap, must have been altered internally before it was dispatched.
 
On my Wasp there is a fat +12v wire to the battery and a thinner +12v wire that is fed by the lucas starter solenoid mounted on the chassis. This solenoid is driven from the starter button and is really just a relay. There is of course a real solenoid inside the starter to push the starter pinion into the ring gear then connect the 'fat wire' to the motor. On my wasp starter the pinion was too short to suit the monting bracket and ring gear so when 'engaged' it only meshed to half the depth of the ring gear thickness. I contacted wasp and they sent me a longer pinion.... I will lookup details...
 
Here are a couple of pics showing what I had and how pinion teeth were a bit short on first pinion. Later pinion had teeth continuing towards the end of the shaft so gears fully engaged...
 

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Thanks guys, interesting, I’ll check the pinion before I put it on. Hopefully get an idea from your picture if its maybe too short.

Sounds like WOSP either wire them internally or add an external connection from the starter to the starter solenoid trip wire, both to the same effect - have to see what turns up. With the external wiring you can remove it if you choose to update from the chassis mounted starter solenoid later.

Bit of a pointless upgrade as the van always starts on the button even turning over slowly on the older type starter but quite fancied a rapid turn over speed :)
 
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Came with the correct pinion and a simple install. Biggest pain was fitting it and then realising I couldn’t attach the main feed due to it being between the starter and the engine - off again attached.
The van always started well and after 3-4 cranks but now it’s first crank from cold and sounds very ‘modern’ :)
very worthwhile upgrade for sure even with the cost.
 
Panky said:
Starter motor is pretty straightforward from underneath the van. Two bolts and the power connection (disconnect battery first) and it's off.
One of the bolt heads on the hi-torque starter is a little more awkward to get to but not that bad.
Is you current starter motor faulty or are you just upgrading?
Click to expand...
Hi i just tryed to remove starter motor but it seemed to get stuck about 25mm out am I missing something ?
 
First of all thanks for all these comments , they inspire me to get my 'Gertrude' running properly .
Not sure if problem is solely starter motor as when the engine runs and is hot , it spins very quick and sometimes starts immediately but have been stuck spinning for a few minutes quite quickly but then fortunately has started .
After not using my Commer 2500 autosleeper apart from a couple of times a year as it just wouldn't start or was so reluctant to and flattened the battery .
Always worried it would let me down . New battery didn't help . It would if I stuck at it and using copious amounts of easy start . Although this too sometimes just flattened the battery , then get the bike out and forget the Commer ! BUT I would like it to start and run as it should . I have just taken the starter off and going to check that , a Lucas LRS102 with a 1995 date on it ! Probably not been off since . Now not sure whether to upgrade to a high torque one or chance putting this back after a check and hope for the best !?
Of course if no change I'd have to go the whole hog and get new h/t starter and go through the whole procedure again and get more grazed knuckles and cuts on forearms !
IF I fit a new h/t one will I need to change any wiring , I hate electrics !
Or probably more scared than hate !
Happy Commering , Ken an Trisha
 
Hello , does anyone know if Ratsport is working , I have sent two web site requests and phoned twice and am getting no answer !?? Anyone know anywhere else that I can get a 'high torque starter' and any model numbers etc ?? Thanks would be nice to get reply on here too :) Ken
 
I don’t know if this will help as don’t know what van you have but this is for 1972 Pb 1725cc petrol.
Bloody photo won’t load. Here goes…
Lucas M35 anticlockwise rotation viewed from front end
Drive type- Lucas type SB
Lock torque- 7.0 lb//ft (0.97kg/m) @ 350/370 Amp
Brush spring tension (new)- 28oz (800g)
Min brush length 3/8in (9.5mm)
Light running current- 65amp @ 8000/10000rpm.
Info taken from my workshop manual.
 
Here's a few possibilities. Same block as the Commer engine so should fit OK, just the exhaust position to consider so you might need to turn the starter body to a different position. First one is the cheapest.

www.classiccarperformance.com

Sunbeam Alpine - High Torque Starter - BritishStarters.com

High Torque Gear Reduction Starter for the Sunbeam Alpine (Series 1 through 5).This modern starter will amaze you every time you turn the key. No longer will you have to cross your fingers, and hope that your car will start. Benefits of upgrading to our Gear Reduction Starter: Spins your motor...
www.classiccarperformance.com www.classiccarperformance.com

Hi Torque Starter Motors > Sunbeam - Sunbeam Alpine/Rapier - Auto Electric Supplies Website

High torque starter to fit the Sunbeam Alpine (Series 1 - 5) & Rapier. Also fits the Sceptre/Hun...
www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk

High torque starter motor

WOSP high output, lightweight, gear reduction starter motors are fully manufactured in the UK. Based on the Denso 1.4 kW conventional offset gear reduction design, these units are now produced and supplied with lightweight magnetic field coils and planeta
sunbeamcarparts.co.uk

www.serckmotorsport.co.uk

WOSP High Torque Starter Motor, Rootes & Holbay 1600 1725, Hillman Avenger, Sunbeam, Austin Marina

Upgrade your vehicle's starting power with WOSPerformance's high torque starter motor. Built to the highest standards using original parts. Get yours now!
www.serckmotorsport.co.uk www.serckmotorsport.co.uk
 
I have the WOSP and it works very well but is a tight fit - they’re adjustable and you need to have the cable connection in an awkward location but once it’s on it’s good.
Keep the jet washer away from them though as I found out!

Got mine from the Autoelectric supplies and were very good. Even rebuilt it free when it got water inside and failed
 
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