More engine questions

T

thowman

0
As I have been suffering an engine that sounds like a diesel, I dismantled it today with the aim of clearing out the rocker oil feed, changing all rockers, shafts and pushrods.

Having taken off the oil filter housing I found this:

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A home made gasket which doesn't seem to be where it should be - so I guess my filter hasn't been very useful as the oil will probably have bypassed it a bit.

However my main question is - when you are turning the engine over by hand, as I have been doing while resetting the rocker gaps, is it normal that when being released, the valve make a metallic click?

Regards

Andy
 
Well, I have managed to source a free head off a 1500 engine that I am going to fit in the next couple of days. It should give me higher compression - which would be a bonus (according to my engine builder who's donating the head to me!)

Obvoiously, it is a head problem causing the valves to snap shut. I think that the dodgy gasket as above on the oil filter has meant that a certain proportion of the oil has just gone back down into the sump via the oil pressure relief and has contributed to the problems and lack of oil arriving at the rockers. It will be interesting to see what the actual problem is.

So, off to the workshop to remove the head..... Hope those exhaust nuts come off without a fight.
 
Good luck Andy. Dennis donating for free? Wonder if he'll let me have the big valve head for LNK free?

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Peggy drinks too much!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
 
bazzateer et al I have a 1500 lump anyone can have for free - was considering weighing it in as I assumed no one would want this engine any longer. Let me know

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Not for me but thanks for the offer.

BazRockscropped.jpg

Peggy drinks too much!
If I told you I was a pathological liar, would you believe me?
 
Well, taken the head off today. More bodgery comes to light. Whoever has done the work on this engine in the past has really done a crap job.

First, my socket was slipping on 2 of the head bolt - both of which looked a bit lower than the others. Eventually, I found a 15mm socket that fitted, and removed these bolts - which turned out to be metric bolts!!!!!!!! just stuck into the head. Fortunately, it seems that the normal head bolts still thread into these hole - I just hope that I manage to torque them sufficently.

Second to that, the stud that goes into head turned out to have a UNC lower part, and had only been half wedged into the head, and wobbled about when touched. Again, I managed to get a tap into the hole and clean up the 3/8th UNF thread that was left below where the stud had been mangled in. Hopefully I will be able to use the stud off my spare engine to fit in this hole.

Also, the head I took off is damaged as the valves seats are burned on a couple of cylinders and would really need replacement - so went over to get the spare head - just to get me going for the summer shows (I have an alloy head engine that is to be rebuilt and installed for the winter). We measured the valves, and the inlets are the same, with the exhausts being slightly smaller. That will do for now.

I also discovered the engine number had been ground off, but a plaque on the other side of the engine shows that its a chrysler replacement engine - so that probably explains the excellent bores and pistons - about the only positive thing about the engine.

Tomorrow - fitting the new head and replacment of timing chain. Hope no more bodgery appears....

Andy
 
So the question is now - should I buy some helicoils for the damaged threads, or shuld I try first to see if I can get away with it?
 
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