Miss Piggy Resto
- Thread starter Miss Piggy
- Start date
Hi there had a look back through your thread and saw the picture of the motor on page 3. From what I can see I am sure you have the standard 200B/Bluebird sump. I have found a picture that shows the different sumps and can confirm they are interchangeable between L & Z series motors.
Yours should be the same as the left hand one, deep section right at the front. Mine is the one on the right with the deep section at the rear. The centre one is off a Datsun 1600 the scallop at the rear is for where the drag link for the steering runs and the front where the cross member sits. From memory I think the 180B sump is slightly different with the deep section a little more forward as you had to swap sumps to put the L18 in a 1600 body.
I know you have done all the work on the engine bay, but if you want a little better space around the front of the sump, these are your options. Remember if you do get another you need the sump pick up as well. They all mount in the same position on the block, but then head off in different directions dependant on model.
Cheers Stephen
Yours should be the same as the left hand one, deep section right at the front. Mine is the one on the right with the deep section at the rear. The centre one is off a Datsun 1600 the scallop at the rear is for where the drag link for the steering runs and the front where the cross member sits. From memory I think the 180B sump is slightly different with the deep section a little more forward as you had to swap sumps to put the L18 in a 1600 body.
I know you have done all the work on the engine bay, but if you want a little better space around the front of the sump, these are your options. Remember if you do get another you need the sump pick up as well. They all mount in the same position on the block, but then head off in different directions dependant on model.
Cheers Stephen
I just got the engine back last week from the rebuider, had a few drama's first the alloy head and front timing cover were cooked, bowed,and the water jackets had nearly corroded throughout he was able to get a good second hand one so problem averted, the a few days later another call the block after putting it through the washer and skimmed the top to find it to was f__ked cracks all over the place, so another good one was found, the cam was reground to SSS standards and the motor balanced new 40thou over pistons,rings,bearings and the crank reground plus a new water pump,all this sitting pretty in the shed waiting till after xmass so as much as I would love to change the sump over everything's set up for it as it is but thanks for the information I didn't know there was choice
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Such is Life
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Such is Life
Sorry to hear all the drama about the motor, the L20b motor is a pretty tough unit generally, the previous owner must have really given it a hard time.
Sound good what you have ended up with. What carb will you be planning to use? The twin SU "SSS" set up would work great but not sure how you would go for space. Don't use the standard Nikki carb, it's a horrible thing. I have a DGV 32/36 on my L300 which works beautifully and will be fitting another one to my Z24 motor when I get there.
Be careful if buying DGV's off Ebay as there are a lot of cheap copies out there now. I got mine from the US via Ebay, genuine Weber and was better value than buying locally, here's a link if you go this way, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271605122672?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649, this is the manual choke version I fitted to the L300, though I might go for the electric choke version http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271253821245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 for the Commer. DVD that comes with it is quite informative too as I had only had experience with side draft DCOE's
Cheers Stephen
Sound good what you have ended up with. What carb will you be planning to use? The twin SU "SSS" set up would work great but not sure how you would go for space. Don't use the standard Nikki carb, it's a horrible thing. I have a DGV 32/36 on my L300 which works beautifully and will be fitting another one to my Z24 motor when I get there.
Be careful if buying DGV's off Ebay as there are a lot of cheap copies out there now. I got mine from the US via Ebay, genuine Weber and was better value than buying locally, here's a link if you go this way, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271605122672?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649, this is the manual choke version I fitted to the L300, though I might go for the electric choke version http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271253821245?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 for the Commer. DVD that comes with it is quite informative too as I had only had experience with side draft DCOE's
Cheers Stephen
I was going to fit a weber but ended up getting the hitachi rebuilt 6 months ago so now committed, there is a lot of air pollution stuff that has been deleted but i'm not sure how that will effect the running of the motor or what i need to keep or loose?
I've now connected the radiator and thermo fan, auto shifter and cable, gearbox support, trans cooler, fuel lines but have a heavy work week ahead
so it all comes to a stop Bugger.
Was thinking of fitting an electronic dizzy any thoughts on this or would it be better to stay standard
Such is Life
I've now connected the radiator and thermo fan, auto shifter and cable, gearbox support, trans cooler, fuel lines but have a heavy work week ahead
so it all comes to a stop Bugger.
Was thinking of fitting an electronic dizzy any thoughts on this or would it be better to stay standard
Such is Life
The Hitachi was the best choice of the standard carbs. Check if you have a wire coming form the carb like this one in the picture that was on the Sunny motor.
It's an idle jet solenoid and needs power to open, connected to the + on the coil. It shuts off with the motor, cutting fuel to the idle to prevent "run on". with out this connected you will be battling to start the motor. If the wire breaks, as it did with me once you can restart a warm motor with an open throttle, but will die if you loose the revs or try to let it idle.
Definitely go electronic distributor. Just grab a standard one off a Bluebird, I think all the Series 3 models had them, they also had the strongest crankshafts. The distributor bolts straight in and only has the 2 wires to connect to the coil from memory. It would be best to get the distributor "re-graphed" to match the SSS spec cam, but would still be ok in standard form as I don't expect you would be pushing the motor to redline on that often and the SSS cam isn't too far from the Std cam. I fitted a modified and re-graphed Pulsar version to the A14 motor on my old Sunny (it had a bigger cam) and never needed to touch it in over 200,000km. Checking and setting points is a pain.
Dump all the pollution equipment this is what kills the L20B. Worth checking, but I am certain that the registration is based on the chassis age not the motor, so our vans pre-date all those rules and regulations. Have you have seen a 60's muscle car with pollution equipment? So why should our vans be any different. Just hook up the PCV outlet from the rocker cover to your air filter and the lower one from the block under the manifolds to the PCV valve on the inlet manifold and you should be right. Just check the PCV is clogged up, which was often the case.
Also in case you are unsure all Datsun/Nissan motors have been built to suit unleaded petrol since the 70's as the motor was designed for their main market, the unleaded USA, and everyone else world wide got the same, just minor changes to the externals like carb, distributor, alternator etc. Again, I ran the A14 in the Sunny from the day it was rebuilt on E10 unleaded with no problems, just had to fiddle a bit with the timing as pinging under load was a minor issue initially. Yes it will run better on 95 or 98. I used to do a lot of miles and decided the 15-20 cent a litre extra wasn't worth it.
Cheers Stephen
It's an idle jet solenoid and needs power to open, connected to the + on the coil. It shuts off with the motor, cutting fuel to the idle to prevent "run on". with out this connected you will be battling to start the motor. If the wire breaks, as it did with me once you can restart a warm motor with an open throttle, but will die if you loose the revs or try to let it idle.
Definitely go electronic distributor. Just grab a standard one off a Bluebird, I think all the Series 3 models had them, they also had the strongest crankshafts. The distributor bolts straight in and only has the 2 wires to connect to the coil from memory. It would be best to get the distributor "re-graphed" to match the SSS spec cam, but would still be ok in standard form as I don't expect you would be pushing the motor to redline on that often and the SSS cam isn't too far from the Std cam. I fitted a modified and re-graphed Pulsar version to the A14 motor on my old Sunny (it had a bigger cam) and never needed to touch it in over 200,000km. Checking and setting points is a pain.
Dump all the pollution equipment this is what kills the L20B. Worth checking, but I am certain that the registration is based on the chassis age not the motor, so our vans pre-date all those rules and regulations. Have you have seen a 60's muscle car with pollution equipment? So why should our vans be any different. Just hook up the PCV outlet from the rocker cover to your air filter and the lower one from the block under the manifolds to the PCV valve on the inlet manifold and you should be right. Just check the PCV is clogged up, which was often the case.
Also in case you are unsure all Datsun/Nissan motors have been built to suit unleaded petrol since the 70's as the motor was designed for their main market, the unleaded USA, and everyone else world wide got the same, just minor changes to the externals like carb, distributor, alternator etc. Again, I ran the A14 in the Sunny from the day it was rebuilt on E10 unleaded with no problems, just had to fiddle a bit with the timing as pinging under load was a minor issue initially. Yes it will run better on 95 or 98. I used to do a lot of miles and decided the 15-20 cent a litre extra wasn't worth it.
Cheers Stephen
This is a shot of the same carb as mine but without the pollution gear.
I couldn't quite make out your picture but there is one wire on the carb
Such is Life
I couldn't quite make out your picture but there is one wire on the carb
Such is Life
I used the insert a photo link here but it never works I'm away from my computer for a week so when I get back I'll try again
Such is Life
Such is Life
Here is the engine ready for intallation
Love the extractors
Now sitting in place with plenty of room to move.
haven't changed over to an electronic dizzy yet
Plenty of room in front
New gearbox cradle works really well
gearbox mount
original nissan engine cradle retro fitted to the chassis
Now radiator and thermo fan fitted next will be the trans cooler
accelerator cable and linkage, heater pipes, radiator hoses and then the wiring i hate that job
Such is Life
Brilliant work looks awesome. That bigger engine bay has several advantages, lifting the motor and gear box in assembled and not having to deal with the narrower front section of the engine bay. Heaps of space, enough room to cook a chook on a long trip! I'd start her up using the old distributor, at least you can see if there is power to the points.
Looks like you're safe with the carb, I can't see an idle solenoid fitted. If there's a wire off the back, from that round bit, I suspect it has and electric choke. Never dealt with the standard L20B carb, my one in the rally car had twin 48 DCOE Webers. Where are you planning to have the exhaust exit? I've been trying to find the rego rules for NSW before I commit. I know they had the side exit originally, but want to be sure. Yes electrics can be a pain, thought these are pretty straight forward compared to todays cars. Another Aussie Commer nearing completion.
Cheers Stephen
Looks like you're safe with the carb, I can't see an idle solenoid fitted. If there's a wire off the back, from that round bit, I suspect it has and electric choke. Never dealt with the standard L20B carb, my one in the rally car had twin 48 DCOE Webers. Where are you planning to have the exhaust exit? I've been trying to find the rego rules for NSW before I commit. I know they had the side exit originally, but want to be sure. Yes electrics can be a pain, thought these are pretty straight forward compared to todays cars. Another Aussie Commer nearing completion.
Cheers Stephen
Very impressive
www.commervanoztour.blogspot.com
Can that be classed as mid-engined
The Blue Toaster
The Blue Toaster
looking up at the new air filter pozzy under the passenger foot well
This air filter is off a toyota hilux it was quite low, i just cut and welded the original carby mount to the filter and reused the original mounting brackets then a flexy pipe passed the radiator down under the passenger foot well. The alloy cylinder is the trans cooler fitted perfectly at the bottom of the radiator.
Any idea on how this handbrake assembly works as i'm missing all brackets and cable stops to the hand lever?
Another angle of the air pipes under the floor.
Such is Life
Looking good, must be getting very close to finished now. Nice cool air for the motor, will the filter cope with getting wet from road spray when it rains? Sorry can't help with the handbrake, though I do have to cut that mount of the old Commer diff and weld it to the Navara diff, thanks for the reminder.
Have been thinking about where to mount the coil, have you got a picture showing this, I can just see the resister. My Z24 has the distributor in the same position as the L20B, it's the only electrical item on that side of a Z24 motor.
Cheers Stephen
Have been thinking about where to mount the coil, have you got a picture showing this, I can just see the resister. My Z24 has the distributor in the same position as the L20B, it's the only electrical item on that side of a Z24 motor.
Cheers Stephen
Mounted it on the fire wall opposite the dizzy perfect place for it.
Such is Life