It runs!!

F

FDGorilla

0
At last, I've managed to give our neglected bus a bit of time and attention. It now runs - pump had gone dry so had to start it on carb cleaner until it drew fuel through so it's now home after temporary lodgings at my parents house. But there's a problem.[V]

Oil breather is spraying quite a lot of fine mist onto air filter - old one was REALLY soggy. Catcher seemed to be round wrong way but still coming through slightly. Any ideas?

Also now that she has a clean air filter she overrevs really badly - guess I need to play with the carb. I originally thought that was the issue (boo) but then found it wasn't (yeeh) and now it is again (boo).

Also had forgotten how bad the breaks are - need to bleed them before Ringwood and hope that improves them a bit.

Squeezed my bulb and it's very stiff and not very pliable. Is replacement required or do they soften over time?:I There has got to be a better solution than this...
 
It sounds like your old filter was so sodden it was restricting the air flow and the tick-over was increased to cope. All that mist doesn't sound particularly good and if you direct it back to the filter it will soak it again after a while. What has been done by a few people is to run the breather pipe down the side of the engine to vent the fumes away - and if you can pipe it into the chassis rails all the better, all those oily fumes will be a good rust preventer :).

'Harvey the RV'
 
excessive oil mist is a sign of sticky piston rings allowing gases to blow-by causing crankcase pressure, which would be the case if its been standing for ages [xx(]. best to do as panky says and not route it all back into the engine :)
as for the bulb, its more likely to get harder with age :I best to lose it and replace with a long drain pipe ;)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off no.3"
 
I was thinking piston rings as well - plan is to warm the engine and put 5ml Redex straight into each cylinder, turn it a few times by hand and see what happens. If I'm being adventurous I suppose a compression test might be a plan....

Long drain pipe seems sensible - is there any reason for the end seal or can it just be open ended? If it's in front of the rad it shouldn't draw engine comparment gases into the cab.
 
Redex is a good plan!, try to spray it into the plug hole otherwise it tends to just lay on top of the pistons.
Also leaving in for 24hrs to let it soak in is a help,if you have the time, in fact i left it in for 3-4 days and it improved the compression and stopped almost all the heavy breathing once it had been run for a while. It runs without any excessive oily deposits at all down the side of the engine.
Hope this sorts it out for you.;)
Trev

back to my "rootes"
 
And now it doesn't.[:(!]

Has anyone else had issues with the pump/carb drying out if left for anything more than a few days? I don't know if it's vaporisation or back-syphoning (or just good old fashioned leaking) but it's becoming embarassing. Any ideas?

Going to try and get it running on carb cleaner again to get something through the pump. Maybe looking at an electric one sooner rather than later at this rate...
 
Hi, tried using an electric pump on mine with the standard carb and it kept flooding up and running very rich, so would advise using a pressure reducer as well. The old zeniths don't like very much pressure at all.
I went back to using the mechanical pump which is ok at the moment.
Have you checked the float level in the carb? to see if your getting enough fuel in there, as it should at least fire a few times on what is in the reservoir.

back to my "rootes"
 
as trev says, use an electric pump with a pressure regulator,they are easily available for £25. they help to ease out the pulsing effect of the pump to create a smoother flow :)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off no.3"
 
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