About the electrics. I've just rewired a fair proportion of mine, and learned a lot as a result. You're right Ryan, original wiring is super basic. Trouble is, a good proportion of it is unfused, meaning that a short circuit can set fire to the wiring very quickly.
In particular all the lighting final circuits are unfused, plus the heavy wiring for the light switch, the heavy wiring for the ignition switch and on to the fusebox, and the heavy wiring to the fusebox for the non-ignition circuits. Whilst shorts are relatively rare in the fat wiring, they do happen, as you can see from my "jennings restoration" thread.
There's also quite a bit associated with the original alternator control box, relay, and warning light unit that can be removed to simplify things if you have had a later alternator fitted. (Most have by now)
If you want, I can go into more detail, but it's difficult to describe the solutions, and I wouldn't want to complicate things.
A few of my favourite general tips..........Crimp AND solder all the connections. I've just had to solder about 100 crimped connections on my old Volvo 850, because corrosion had crept into the computer wiring. Use bare metal connectors with separate shrouds. Crimp the conductor first to make a good mechanical joint, then solder for long life. Then crimp the insulation grip, and slide a shroud over every one. Wrap the whole harness in proper harness tape (that's PVC tape without any adhesive) ordinary electricians tape goes all slimey and slippery when it gets oily or hot, and if you forget a wire, you can unwrap and rewrap easily. Keep the old harness together with cable ties because if it all falls apart, it's
very difficult to put back together.
Hope this helps
Commer PB Jennings
