Gauges
- Thread starter andrew
- Start date
Any 2" (52mm) gauge will be fine as long as anything electric associated with them is 12v. Not difficult to fit you just need to make sure all connections are well made and wires/pipes are run safely. Be warned though you'll get paranoid watching them - maybe ignorance is bliss 
Hi Andrew.
I have fitted Smiths Classic gauges that I got from Europaspares.com. They match the original fuel gauge and look good. I fitted a new temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge. You need to get the matching sensor for the gauge and they need to go through the voltage stabilizer. If you go for the electric oil gauge I fitted an adaptor in the block where the oil warning light sensor is screwed in so that you can still retain the warning light. I know what Panky means you do watch the gauges a lot but I think it's good to know what's going on. Hope this helps. Malcolm.
I have fitted Smiths Classic gauges that I got from Europaspares.com. They match the original fuel gauge and look good. I fitted a new temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge. You need to get the matching sensor for the gauge and they need to go through the voltage stabilizer. If you go for the electric oil gauge I fitted an adaptor in the block where the oil warning light sensor is screwed in so that you can still retain the warning light. I know what Panky means you do watch the gauges a lot but I think it's good to know what's going on. Hope this helps. Malcolm.
From experience, don't fit a T piece for an oil pressure gauge, even more so if it is electric. I have mention elsewhere that, years ago I had one crack from the combined weight of the gauge sender unit & low pressure warning sender due to the vibration of the motor. It sprayed oil all over the engine bay and I couldn't drive any further. Not a road side repair trying to remove the snapped off thread from the block. Most T pieces are brass, they are not that strong and the quality of these fittings is terrible compared to 30 years ago when mine cracked.
You have a few choices
First and the most practical, get a hose made up buy a local hydraulic hose repairer so you can screw one end into the existing position on the motor and with a T at the other end mount it of the side of the engine bay so it supports the weight of the gauge sender and warning switch.
Second, if you chose to run an oil cooler, the sandwich plate that fits between the engine block and the oil filter usually has 1 or 2 additional holes for oil pressure and temp sensors.
Thirdly, which is what I chose to do on my conversion, I have used a special VDO sender unit that has does both functions. It has 2 terminals, one for the signal to the oil pressure gauge and the other for the signal wire to the low oil pressure warning light. You would probably have to use a VDO gauge too, not sure if there's a Smiths equivalent
Other may have some other ideas, but these have worked for me
Cheers Stephen
You have a few choices
First and the most practical, get a hose made up buy a local hydraulic hose repairer so you can screw one end into the existing position on the motor and with a T at the other end mount it of the side of the engine bay so it supports the weight of the gauge sender and warning switch.
Second, if you chose to run an oil cooler, the sandwich plate that fits between the engine block and the oil filter usually has 1 or 2 additional holes for oil pressure and temp sensors.
Thirdly, which is what I chose to do on my conversion, I have used a special VDO sender unit that has does both functions. It has 2 terminals, one for the signal to the oil pressure gauge and the other for the signal wire to the low oil pressure warning light. You would probably have to use a VDO gauge too, not sure if there's a Smiths equivalent
Other may have some other ideas, but these have worked for me
Cheers Stephen