lucky really nice 
Commer Dandy by Dandy Caravans
The Colonel Mustard
Commer Dandy by Dandy Caravans
The Colonel Mustard
FONTY - work commences
- Thread starter rejhall2
- Start date
Good to see her getting some treatment [^]
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
Jon
0
quote:
Originally posted by rejhall2
yep still got the pinto engine in it - had a few issues but running better now - Woolfy put a new rad in and that made a lot of difference
still runs pretty hot but what doesnt?!
Rob lou & Millie (fonty's carers)
I recon that pinto engine that tim dropped in has a dodgy block/head if you ask me. Tim did loads of work trying to get it to run cooler.
I recon it might have a cracked/porous head or block as ive never know a pinto run hot as they hold alot of water. It would be nice to get rid of that auto box and fit a mt75 gearbox with one of my cable shift gear linkages on
A commer with boost will be appering on a screen near you soon!
Originally posted by rejhall2
yep still got the pinto engine in it - had a few issues but running better now - Woolfy put a new rad in and that made a lot of difference
still runs pretty hot but what doesnt?!
Rob lou & Millie (fonty's carers)
I recon that pinto engine that tim dropped in has a dodgy block/head if you ask me. Tim did loads of work trying to get it to run cooler.
I recon it might have a cracked/porous head or block as ive never know a pinto run hot as they hold alot of water. It would be nice to get rid of that auto box and fit a mt75 gearbox with one of my cable shift gear linkages on
A commer with boost will be appering on a screen near you soon!
The problem with Fonty,s cooling is related to airflow at speed. We tried 2 different rads including an alloy one and added a bike rad, leccy pump and fan. She will be fine idling and most normal driving. The problem only occurs on hot days at speed. Just can,t get enough air through the rad or engine bay [xx(]
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
Have you considered fitting an Oil Cooler to the motor. Hi oil tempretures are often overlooked as we only have water tempreture gauges in most cars. My 75 Range Rover had an Oil Temp Gauge and it was amazing how quickly you noticed the temp running hotter when towing or the oil level was down. The engine oil takes longer to heat up to operating temp than the water in the cooling system. The smae happens when the oil is running hot form climbing hills, towing, or just working hard , it takes longer to cool down when the work load decreases as it is relying on the water cooling system to cool it too.
Cheers Stephen
Cheers Stephen
That sounds like a good idea, a good early warning of trouble. Can you use the same type of sender and gauge as for the water? Where would you plumb it in?
Well...alright then, maybe just a little...
Well...alright then, maybe just a little...
Oil runs at a higher temp than water and the scales and senders would be too low, but might work for you over there. If my memory is correct the scale on the Range Rover went to 140 Deg C, and out her in the summer with it loaded and the rally car behind on the trailer it would easily get to 130 Deg on a long climb. Find an early Range Rover up to 1984, they all had the 4 additional gauges in the dash. The gauges varied model to model and some lost the oil temp, replaced by a volt meter. It was the only car that I was aware of that had an Oil Temp Gauge fitted as standard. It was predictably a Smiths gauge 2", you do see them come up on EBay time to time.
If anyone should decide to fit one here's a smart way of doing it. Firstly get rid of your Oil Pressure gauge and fit the oil temp gauge in its place keeps things looking original. Oil Pressure gauges don't really tell you much, in reality you either have oil pressure or something is buggered and you don't. A warning light is always a better option and immediately noticed, especially when set up with an adjustable sender unit. I had this set up on the rally car, with the warning light setup to go off at around 40PSI. Light comes on, shut off the motor while there's still some oil pressure. On some hot days the oil light would come on at idle, but a blip of the throttle would make it go away, with a look at the Oil Temp Gauge you would notice the oil temp up. Oil temp up means more viscious/runny oil = drop in oil pressure at idle, hence light is on. If necessary you can drop the set point as the sender unit is adjustable.
This is what I fitted on my rally car after the mechanical oil Pressure gauge Tee piece snapped off the block while competing. Too busy to notice the gauge at the time the light quickly alerted me to the drop in oil pressure and shut it down, preventing any damage to the motor. A friend at the time who rallied a Mazda RX3, decided to fit an Oil Pressure gauge and choose not to reconnect the warning light sensor as he didn't have a tee piece, unfortunately some time later he burst an oil cooler hose, loosing all his oil, and only stopped when he got a wiff of burning oil on the exhaust, and was confronted with an very expensive rebuild.
If you should choose to run a pressure gauge and warning light get a braided flexible hose made up so you can mount the sender units on the body work, similar to what you do with your ignition coils. This is even more important when you have a big electric pressure sender unit. The combined weight of the senders plus vibration of the motor can lead to the Tee piece snapping off as it did for me. These Tee piece fittings are often brass 1/8" BSP off the motor and there really isn't alot of material or strength in them, not to mention the quality and questionable grades of brass coming out of some countries these days.
Cheers for now
Stephen
If anyone should decide to fit one here's a smart way of doing it. Firstly get rid of your Oil Pressure gauge and fit the oil temp gauge in its place keeps things looking original. Oil Pressure gauges don't really tell you much, in reality you either have oil pressure or something is buggered and you don't. A warning light is always a better option and immediately noticed, especially when set up with an adjustable sender unit. I had this set up on the rally car, with the warning light setup to go off at around 40PSI. Light comes on, shut off the motor while there's still some oil pressure. On some hot days the oil light would come on at idle, but a blip of the throttle would make it go away, with a look at the Oil Temp Gauge you would notice the oil temp up. Oil temp up means more viscious/runny oil = drop in oil pressure at idle, hence light is on. If necessary you can drop the set point as the sender unit is adjustable.
This is what I fitted on my rally car after the mechanical oil Pressure gauge Tee piece snapped off the block while competing. Too busy to notice the gauge at the time the light quickly alerted me to the drop in oil pressure and shut it down, preventing any damage to the motor. A friend at the time who rallied a Mazda RX3, decided to fit an Oil Pressure gauge and choose not to reconnect the warning light sensor as he didn't have a tee piece, unfortunately some time later he burst an oil cooler hose, loosing all his oil, and only stopped when he got a wiff of burning oil on the exhaust, and was confronted with an very expensive rebuild.
If you should choose to run a pressure gauge and warning light get a braided flexible hose made up so you can mount the sender units on the body work, similar to what you do with your ignition coils. This is even more important when you have a big electric pressure sender unit. The combined weight of the senders plus vibration of the motor can lead to the Tee piece snapping off as it did for me. These Tee piece fittings are often brass 1/8" BSP off the motor and there really isn't alot of material or strength in them, not to mention the quality and questionable grades of brass coming out of some countries these days.
Cheers for now
Stephen
Well she,s got a decent owner now
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
"You,re only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"