Fitting insulation

S0updragon

S0updragon

Well-Known Member
So choosing a non adhesive multi foil blanket or a closed cell foil faced self adhesive. My question being is it better to have the whole surface bonded to the panels so there is no chance of moisture getting in or double sided tape round edges so if moisture does get in there is a chance it will get back out?? Seeing on here the hard work needed to get self adhesive stuff off (hopefully I’ll never have to) and if moisture did get in it would get trapped.
Or am I just getting carried away over nothing and it doesn’t matter. I also imagine the closed cell stuff would be better as would also be a bit of sound deadening. What was on before was that foil bubble wrap stuff which I hate.
All input greatly appreciated
 
On Bonnies cab I used sound deadening pads on the wheel arches and engine cover with self adhesive closed cell foam over that and then made some vinyl covers to finish. I also made a padded plywood panel to fit under the dash with a few sound deadening panels stuck to the metal surfaces. I didn't put anything under the carpet except the original rubber mat. It all make quite a difference. Personally I wouldn't stick anything to the floor but maybe use some non sticky dense foam under the carpet.

www.ebay.co.uk

van car boat vw camper sound proofing deadening pads 1sqm | eBay UK

SINK SOUND DEADENING PROOFING PADS 10 SHEETS 1sqm SELF ADHESIVE - ANTI VIBRATION. Other SPECIALIST ADHESIVES CORROSION PREVENTION HIGH BOND TAPES SOUND DEADENING SEAM. CAR VAN VEHICLE SOUND DEADENING PROOFING PADS SHEETS.
www.ebay.co.uk

Anything you can get on the inside of the door skin will make a difference too, the sound deadening stuff is best for that.
Jimberlake has done a lot of work on his insulation so check out his thread for some ideas too.
 
I’ve done a lot of work in the cab area, in the rear I just used the stick in foam with a reflective finish - it defo won’t be easy to remove but shouldn’t let moisture in on the vertical panels. Any small amounts of condensation sits on the foam itself and pre interior fit I wax-oiled the seams below the insulated panels to stop any rust if condensation does drip off.
As Panky said I wouldn’t stick anything foam or material based to the floors as that could trap moisture. I first used a silver dodo dead mat with the tar backing - this is really only able to stop panel drumming and block small gaps\holes which are big noisemakers at speed), £100 for a huge roll - this lips over edges and seals well so shouldn’t let any water get under and on to metal. The Dodo mat is good but there are thicker ones out there but at double the price. On top of this I used a foam backed carpet on the cab floor that comes out if any water does get in between the dodo mat and carpet. On the other panels (all the engine panels and the van front panel) I used the dodo mat and then I glued on the black and brown matting you see under car bonnets and then re-fitted the cab 'kick panel' that goes under the dash, also I've added original engine and wheel arch rubber covers which include soundproofing backing. This has all made a HUGE difference overall, you can chat at a normal volume at 60- 70mph! Next is leccy fan to reduce it further.
I also spent a lot of time removing and sealing the windscreen, washer jets, wiper rubbers and door seals - all sources of water ingress during rain whilst driving so I’m hopefully my leaks are in the past??!!
Over all I spent a lot of time on this, maybe went a bit too far :) but was the right time to do it all whilst I was re-wiring and re-furbing the cab area. Alot of details are on the on the Supervista thread, the thread was originally started by Richard or Steve Williams if you're looking for it.

Jim
 
Panky said:
On Bonnies cab I used sound deadening pads on the wheel arches and engine cover with self adhesive closed cell foam over that and then made some vinyl covers to finish. I also made a padded plywood panel to fit under the dash with a few sound deadening panels stuck to the metal surfaces. I didn't put anything under the carpet except the original rubber mat. It all make quite a difference. Personally I wouldn't stick anything to the floor but maybe use some non sticky dense foam under the carpet.

www.ebay.co.uk

van car boat vw camper sound proofing deadening pads 1sqm | eBay UK

SINK SOUND DEADENING PROOFING PADS 10 SHEETS 1sqm SELF ADHESIVE - ANTI VIBRATION. Other SPECIALIST ADHESIVES CORROSION PREVENTION HIGH BOND TAPES SOUND DEADENING SEAM. CAR VAN VEHICLE SOUND DEADENING PROOFING PADS SHEETS.
www.ebay.co.uk

Anything you can get on the inside of the door skin will make a difference too, the sound deadening stuff is best for that.
Jimberlake has done a lot of work on his insulation so check out his thread for some ideas too.
Click to expand...
 
Hi again I have removed the engine lid heat thingy could u recommend a replacement option' also I have been trying to find something around the house as a heat shield to put under the petrol pipe that travels over the engine and was thinking of using a piece of a fire blanket' think it might work? the reason I haven't moved the pipe around the engine is it screws into the carburater and I dont know what bolts to get for the new rubber pipe I know I could cut the original one and add the rubber pipe in the middle of the pipe ' any thoughts suggestions? thanks agajn
 
Splicing a length of ethanol proof fuel hose into the line would be a good idea as it would insulate better than metal. I've heard of people using the silvered type of hot water tank jacket fixed to the inside of the engine lid, seems to work well.
 
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