Fire extinguishers

I am looking to equip my workshop with something better than a bucket of water and a small fire extinguisher designed for inside the car and wondered what sort of fire protection others use. Would a foam extinguisher be better than powder, as I have heard that breathing in powder in a confined space can in itself be hazardous. [xx(]

All observations gratefully received.

avatar_23306.gif


'I intend to live forever - so far, so good'
 
Not as hazardous as a fire [:0]
i keep a stock of various types, foam,co2,powder,water. as what type you use depends on the type of fire :)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
4466081408_11bb2fcb3d_o.jpg
 
Powder seems to be the most widely used as they are suitable for most fires - but they do make a bit of a mess - less mess than a fire though. Keep the bucket as well, I always keep the garden hose handy when I'm welding:I

th_killin.jpg
 
Dry powder is usually something along the lines of baking soda - not in its self toxic but it will make you splutter and choke.
I was trapped in an engine room fire on my last ship - in the bilge under the shaft brake when that caught fire. Couldnt use water as it would make the brake pads explode due to the heat - dry powder was the only option - it was fired down onto me, i absolutely couldnt breath at all as one breath of it coated my lungs - however i got out and managed to cough / puke it all up and there seems to be no long term damage. So its only dangerous in so much as it chokes you.

Fire needs three elements - heat, oxygen , fuel. Remove any one and the fire will extinguish

Dry powder works by excluding oxygen from the fire. It is good on oil/fuel as it will smother the liquid but its downside is that it doesnt cool so if the liquid is disturbed suddenly revealing a gap in the powder layer it will let oxygen back onto the fuel surface then it may well re-ignite. If you have a dry powder extinguisher - bang it down on the floor before operating as sometimes if it has been sat for a very long time the powder can form a solid lump in the bottom and all you will spray will be compressed air/nitrogen depending on brand. It goes bloody everywhere but at least you can hoover it up

Next option - water, not good in a workshop as on an oil/fuel fire it will cause a fireball but is good on carbonaceous fires such as paper, dirty rags etc. remember electricity will track back up the water jet up to 2m (based on 240v)so if using a water hose where there is a risk of electricity try to bounce the jet off a metal object such as a metal roof or any large earthed metal object to reduce the risk of you getting a zap.

CO2 - good for electrical fires, not good on paper as it tends to blow it everywhere and may spread the fire - real care would need to be taken if using on a liquid fire as if you spray it too close it may splash burning fuel everywhere.

Foam (Aqueous film forming foam - AFFF) the most versatile of general purpose extinguishers, good on liquid fires but dont blast it into a liquid fire, try to get it in at an edge and let the foam roll over and smother the surface - also provides cooling. Same electrical precautions as for water

We used to charge our own extinguishers on the ship - one mug of foam solution to 9 ltrs of water, screw the top on and pump up to 10bar.

I would get a dry powder and a foam - i would not get a car dry powder as theres just not enough in there. The secret to minimizing the chance of a workshop fire is meticulous cleanliness and correct storage of flammables. A spark from a welder cant set fire to an oily rag thats not there!

The Dog is on its way....
0049.gif
 
and watch where your grinder sparks go - i was grinding off bolts on one ship and set fire to my own sock - oh how everyone else laughed as i ran about swearing bashing my leg with my hands

The Dog is on its way....
0049.gif
 
I did the same thing to the right leg of my overalls once, I suddenly realised that it seemed brighter than normal for grinding and stopped - only to see flames creeping up to my crotch! Luckily I had jeans on underneath and no harm was done!

3897579513_b1fb5b908a_o.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by Navyreg1970

Dry powder is usually something along the lines of baking soda - not in its self toxic but it will make you splutter and choke.
I was trapped in an engine room fire on my last ship - in the bilge under the shaft brake when that caught fire. Couldnt use water as it would make the brake pads explode due to the heat - dry powder was the only option - it was fired down onto me, i absolutely couldnt breath at all as one breath of it coated my lungs - however i got out and managed to cough / puke it all up and there seems to be no long term damage. So its only dangerous in so much as it chokes you.

Fire needs three elements - heat, oxygen , fuel. Remove any one and the fire will extinguish

Dry powder works by excluding oxygen from the fire. It is good on oil/fuel as it will smother the liquid but its downside is that it doesnt cool so if the liquid is disturbed suddenly revealing a gap in the powder layer it will let oxygen back onto the fuel surface then it may well re-ignite. If you have a dry powder extinguisher - bang it down on the floor before operating as sometimes if it has been sat for a very long time the powder can form a solid lump in the bottom and all you will spray will be compressed air/nitrogen depending on brand. It goes bloody everywhere but at least you can hoover it up

Next option - water, not good in a workshop as on an oil/fuel fire it will cause a fireball but is good on carbonaceous fires such as paper, dirty rags etc. remember electricity will track back up the water jet up to 2m (based on 240v)so if using a water hose where there is a risk of electricity try to bounce the jet off a metal object such as a metal roof or any large earthed metal object to reduce the risk of you getting a zap.

CO2 - good for electrical fires, not good on paper as it tends to blow it everywhere and may spread the fire - real care would need to be taken if using on a liquid fire as if you spray it too close it may splash burning fuel everywhere.

Foam (Aqueous film forming foam - AFFF) the most versatile of general purpose extinguishers, good on liquid fires but dont blast it into a liquid fire, try to get it in at an edge and let the foam roll over and smother the surface - also provides cooling. Same electrical precautions as for water

We used to charge our own extinguishers on the ship - one mug of foam solution to 9 ltrs of water, screw the top on and pump up to 10bar.

I would get a dry powder and a foam - i would not get a car dry powder as theres just not enough in there. The secret to minimizing the chance of a workshop fire is meticulous cleanliness and correct storage of flammables. A spark from a welder cant set fire to an oily rag thats not there!

The Dog is on its way....
0049.gif





Nice one Lee. This is really usefull;-)

Album010-1-1.jpg
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHA!!!
 
i keep a stock of jumpers with a big burn hole in the front, saves me doing it a second time :I:I

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
4466081408_11bb2fcb3d_o.jpg
 
Many thanks for those words of wisdom - exactly what I was looking for. I think I will go for powder and foam, while retaining my bucket of water (which doubles up to catch the drips from the leak in the roof);)

avatar_23306.gif


'I intend to live forever - so far, so good'
 
Back
Top