Engine Removal

JJ Autosleeper

JJ Autosleeper

Active Member
My head gasket replacement has developed into an engine out full rebore. As there is 5 thou+ wear in the bores diagnosed by my engine reconditioner (Brian North), hence I was getting crank case gas asphyxiation whilst driving. And I could not get her to idle.

I have now stripped off all the engine peripherals. I’m assuming I then need to jack the gearbox and overdrive, and split the gearbox assembly from engine once I have the hoist in place and the weight taken by straps.

Then am hoping I can lift, rotate, and remove the engine via the passenger door.

Any tips on the above?
 
That's the way to do it. Keep the straps as short as possible or the crane will touch the ceiling. You may need to reposition it during the lift, this can be done by using some wood across between the arches to sit it down on
 
As Paul said that's the way I did it but not having an engine crane I rigged up a scaffolding pole beam through he cab supported by an 'A' frame on either side and dragged the lump along the beam.
 
Could I just add here .......when you put the engine back, my advice is to refit the cylinder head in situ in the van, or it may be too tall.
 
Will do. Still can’t the engine out though. It separates about an inch from the bell hosing but won’t go any further despite jacking the gears etc box up and down.
 
The earth strap is off and engine mounts are free but what ever angle I align the gearbox and engine it won’t slide free. Which is a bugger as rain every day for the next week and the van is outside.
 
I’ve always fully removed the gearbox first - it’s not that heavy. Need the prop shaft off the diff end which is a quick job - you can get away with leaving the prop in the gearbox when you drop it so you don’t need to plug or drain it (though I usually do drain and remove to make it easier).
 
I was hoping to avoid taking the gearbox (and overdrive off). I’ll have drag it out and find somewhere in the garage to store prop shaft and box/overdrive which is quite a lump.

What I don’t understand is if you can slide the gearbox into the clutch why you can’t slide the engine (and clutch) off the splined gearbox drive shaft. I have tried jacking up the gearbox as high as it will go at the engine end to get some angle on it but have not removed the cross brace to lower the back end. At which point I may as well take it out and give it a clean.
 
I seem to remember that I once tried to remove the (diesel) engine with the gearbox in place. I found that the sump fouled the steering joints/arms positioned behind the front cross member, so I couldn't move the engine forward enough to clear the clutch shaft. In the end I found it much easier to remove the gearbox first, so allowing the engine to pull straight up. Without the cylinder head there was plenty of room to get the engine out. I don't know if the petrol engine has the same problems though.
 
JJ Autosleeper said:
I was hoping to avoid taking the gearbox (and overdrive off). I’ll have drag it out and find somewhere in the garage to store prop shaft and box/overdrive which is quite a lump.

What I don’t understand is if you can slide the gearbox into the clutch why you can’t slide the engine (and clutch) off the splined gearbox drive shaft. I have tried jacking up the gearbox as high as it will go at the engine end to get some angle on it but have not removed the cross brace to lower the back end. At which point I may as well take it out and give it a clean.
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Sorry for late reply but been away - it’s always been quite awkward to get the gearbox back on the engine on my van and that’s with a lot of wiggle to play - I couldn’t imagine doing it the other way round.
Best of luck
 
I got them separated eventually, after much jacking up and down of the gearbox and up and down with the engine hoist, and rocking and pulling. It would her been easier with two people.
 

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Engine is now disassembled and down the machine shop for a rebore and new pistons. And boy was the crankshaft pulley nut a hard nut to crack!

Next question is what type of new pistons. The ones that have come out are standard dish pistons not the original deep dish low compression ones. So I am probably going to get the standard dished ones plus 20 thou or so.

Plus I have a sloppy timing chain I think given the gouge taken out of the chain oiler pipe. So that will need to be renewed, plus the oiler pipe. Anyone know where I can get one in the UK?
 

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JJ Autosleeper said:
Engine is now disassembled and down the machine shop for rebore and new pistons. And boy was the crankshaft Mankiller nut had to crack!

Next question is what type of new pistons. The ones that have come out are standard dish pistons not the original deep dish low compression ones. So I am probably going to honey the standard dishes and an oversized piston plus 20 thou or so.

Plus I have a sloppy timing chain I think given the gouge taken out of the chain oiler pipe. So that will need to be renewed, plus the oiler pipe. Anyone know where I can get one in the UK?
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Panky said:
Or Blimey that was just in time :eek:

This one should do the trick

Timing chain

Replacement timing chain for all 4 cylinder engines
hillmanspares.co.uk

And if you need a new tensioner

Timing chain tensioner (premium)

Premium quality timing chain tensioner manufactured from modern oil resistant rubber
forestcustom.co.uk
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Thanks, but I’ll also need the timing chain oiler pipe. That is the tricky one to find. The only seller I can see online is Sunbeam Specialties in California. Anyone got a spare they will part with?
 
What diameter is the pipe? I've got some 3.5mm Citroen hydraulic pipe and a die for creating the special flare if you think it will work.
You probably already know but be careful of the little spring and ball where the pipe connects into the fitting.


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That’s very kind of you. I can measure the pipe when I am at engine shop next. There is drilling for the flow to chain to consider as well. I don’t know how you can drill that out, assuming you can work out the size of the hole. It is tiny.
 
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