Clutch plates

stable

stable

0
Hello,

Hope everyone's enjoying the liquid sunshine!

Going to do a clutch this week on the highwayman.

It's '71 but has the alloy head engine in - with a 4 speed box. I assume it's got the original box and prop on so a fine splined plate? Which I believe is 8".

I seem to find plates listed sometimes with identical part numbers within the routes group for the commer and hillman which seem to vary in spec, some listed as 8" some 8.5" and both fine and course splines.

What's the interchangeability like - what shares what?

I found a......... 'HB1510 Hillman/Sunbeam 1725cc clutch plate 8"' - it's got fine splines and is only £20!

But then a 'HB1510 8 & 1/2 inch ( 216mm ) diameter Commer Van PB1500 / 2000 / 2500 67 - 76' also fine splined for £65.:confused:

Are people rounding 8.5s down to 8 inch or are there 2 different ones!

Tom
 
It all depend which flywheel has been fitted when the engine swap happened. When I put the Rapier engine in I used the Commer flywheel so I could use the bigger clutch but yours may have been fitted as a unit with the original car sized clutch. The two sizes aren't interchangeable because of the locating dowels for the cover plate, but if you need an 8 1/2" plate then Martin M sells them a lot cheaper than £65.
 
Well got the van back - so tomorrow I'll pull the box and take a peek. Should be nice day for it unlike last weeks fun and games in the rain.

Got the MOT fail list from 4 pages down to just a leak on the rear brake cylinder. So with brake fluid pissing out and a horrifically slipping clutch the drive home was a balance of keeping enough speed up to get up any small inclines and not too much speed that I had to touch the brakes :D.

The annoying thing is this is the second time it's happened on this rear cylinder. Both times it's been the rubber seals split. The piston seems to protrude too far forward on application and the seal falls into the open portion of the cylinder wall - the part for if you had rear hand brake lever (which I don't) - and snags ripping it.

Is this just due to my lack of adjustment on the adjuster mech - leaving the shoes too far away from the drum and forcing the piston beyond it's limit? I find this design madness as ingress of muck into the cylinder is inevitable and that tolerance of bore stroke is tight.

image%204_zpseb965ebz.jpeg


Tom
 
They were originally designed for a lever to slot in there for the hand brake.
Do you run out of adjustment on that drum?
 
There's also another bit that goes in the end of the cylinder, a dust cap type thing that's missing from your pic
 
yeah got the sort of slot on cap - not sure if I run out of adjustment, tricky to see how far the piston moves when setting up. Guess push em home get the shoes just biting before anything is touched.
 
Howdy Stable, this seal failure happened to my Commer when my bonded shoes (non riveted) wore down thinner than riveted ones would (did not reach metal I may add). A new seal didn't last. New shoes fixed it for me.

Worn drums might contribute to the problem too.
 
hello, that is interesting. One of the linings fell off the shoe when I removed the drum... they are low but I wouldn't have replaced them just yet. New set on order!

Tom
 
It's putting me through the ringer this rebuild! Well got the new clutch plate in today. Gonna have some bruises! Gravel drive and gearbox drops don't mix :(
 
put my overdrive gb in and out fours times now without jacks... I find 'the crab' with a good groin lift does the job! Hurts like hell though :)
 
Fair play - imagine i'd need physio after attempting that.

Turned out to be what I guess is a standard 8" fine spline. I hedged my best and had one on order which came just as I dropped the box.

Tom
 
Well that seems to have solved it - just run her back to the MOT station. Next problem is she's overheating :mad:

Seems to be running great - changed the temp sender and gauge yesterday as it seemed warm the other day but blamed it on the gauge.

I know the thermostat isn't in it. But should be ok without for now.

The timing seems good - perhaps a little advanced.

Fueling seems good but will check the plugs.

Pump is good with strong circulation.

New head gasket and not pressurising from cold.

Radiator gone bad??

Tom
 
Well I never had it on the road and tbh on tickover it seems happy now and before with regards to temp. I did the head as it was running so roughly.

I've only taken it on a couple of runs with a working temp gauge and temp quickly rises once i'm on the open road.

Tom
 
A good flushing wont do any harm but it does sound like a blockage somewhere:(
We did talk about getting the head gasket the right way round didn't we? I thought it could go either way but there is an extra port to one side of the head. If it's on wrong it could cause some localised over heating.
 
hmmmm, yes i'm 99.9% the gasket is correct as I had previously seen this 'problem' with others.

Seems very good flow when you look into the rad from the filler. God knows :confused:.

Any words of wisdom on a course of action when I start delving on my return from bank holiday break appreciated!

See you all on the other side of this weekend. Enjoy.

Tom
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top