Clucth wont disengage and wont go into any gear!

Luke Hopson

Luke Hopson

0
Hi Its Luke with the 1974 auto sleeper project!
Engine is running sweet with new fuel lines , filters , new oil and filters and the tank seems to have no rust on the outside or the inside so is pretty remarkable. Radiator and water systems are mint and just bought an RC40 backbox which IM making come straight out the side rather than out the back and new air filter.
what i desperately need to know is how to move my van.
the clutch goes down with no resistance. The van will NOT go into any gear at all. It sits in neutral. I know the clutch is seized or the pressure plate is stopping the clutch from moving. I have had the engine upto temp and try but nothing seems to work. I don't want to damage any parts because i don't want to have to replace the clutch.
Any Ideas on what to do first?
 
It could be a number of things, the clutch plate stuck to the flywheel,the master cylinder piston stuck down in the bore or maybe you've lost the fluid through a leaky slave cylinder[xx(] The tried and tested way to free off the plate, if its stuck, is to get the engine good and warm, switch off, depress the clutch pedal and put the stick if first gear then go for a start. The shock of the engine turning usually frees the clutch up, but make sure you've got plenty of room in front of the van. Another way is to jam the clutch pedal down with a piece of timber and start the engine (in neutral) and leave it running for about three quarters of an hour, the heat eventually gets through to the flywheel and pops the plate.
The first thing to do though is to establish if the slave cylinder is actually moving, get someone inside depressing the pedal while you look underneath, the rod and arm from the slave cylinder should move in and out about half an inch - good luck

From 'Mechanical Hints and Tips' on the home page.

"First of all make sure the hydaulics are working. You'll need somebody looking underneath whilst you push the pedal. If the pushrod from the slave cylinder is moving the clutch operating lever back and forth then it's not that. Stuck clutches are far more fun. Warm up the engine. Stop it. Put it in first and restart the engine so that your Commer starts to move. With your left foot, depress clutch pedal (it's vital the hydraulics are working, as above) and then with right foot stamp on the other two pedals alternately, going on and off the throttle and brakes. The shunting will either free it all up with a bang, or you run out of road. It's normally just a bit of corrosion on the flywheel sticking stuff together. This method does work, my Commer sits in a field all winter and it happens every year." [Andy Zarse]

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If it is a stuck clutch plate/flywheel I can second Pankys proposed method although I have had more luck the two times it happened to me with putting it in reverse (I presume there is a very good reasons why you use 1st but mine just wouldn't free......)
 
My luton is the same[V] I've tried everything and it won't come off, going to have to drop the box[xx(]

www.commervanspares.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/commervanspares
 
Mine used to stick really badly every time it was left for more than a week. Replaced the clutch plate and its been perfect ever since. I think it must be something to do with the type of material they used for the friction linings. Old brake shoes are the same.

I just need a good rootes...
 
Okay , but it wont got in to any gear including reverse when the clutch is up or down ? Its been sat 30 years so i don't know :/ the little cylinder on the gearbox moves when you push the clutch in haven't checked if it goes back or not ?
 
It might be time to change the fluid, after standing that long, if the slave cylinder piston is not moving enough.

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Betterer than new ...
 
If it wont go into gear with the engine off presumably it has to be a linkage problem or problem with the gearbox itself on my limited knowledge. You should be able to select gears with the engine off. The idea is to put it in gear with the engine off then bump it with the starter motor (i.e. try and start it) to free it. Do it with your foot on the clutch and if it does free and start you wont shoot off.
 
If it won't go into gear with the engine off, it's likely to be the selector shafts that have seized in the gearbox top cap.

www.commervanspares.co.uk
https://www.facebook.com/commervanspares
 
Okay i will take the selector bit in. The cab apart and take the gear stick out and have a good clean and see what's wrong. Where or how do you put more fluid in ? It wont go into any gear if the clutch in engaged or disengaged. It wont go in gear with engine off or on :) it will move across neutral and thats it :)
 
That's not where Martin meant - under the van on the gearbox is where the selector shafts tend to seize.

Member of the V8 Club
 
Your clutch won't be disengaged if the clutch pedal goes down with no resistance...but should go into gears regardless with the engine off.
Beginning to sound like siezed selector shaft as Mr.Maltas suggested

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My spare is partially siezed, you need to try and work in penetrating oil mainly at yellow arrows but red also if tight.

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Betterer than new ...
 
Is it easy to unseize and i doubt its got any fluid left so i will refill the clutch fluid. Is the top selector cap easy to locate when fitted to the van?
thanks
 
The clutch fluid reservoir should be in the panel under the floor of the drivers feet

Member of the V8 Club
 
Is the brake fluid under your feet aswell? If so i will do it all at once :) Thankyou so much foe your help. One last thing to free the selector shaft in the gearbox top cap what's the best thing to do wd40 and a hammer blow ? How should i do it ?
 
A hammer blow is for seasoned experienced personnel...with a spare top cap!
WD40 might do it left overnight, periodically re-applied...try the stick shifter in the morning...gently.

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Betterer than new ...
 
Sounds like you might have to drop the gearbox to sort the clutch and at the same time the selectors in the top of the box. Would also recommend changing the frost plug behind the flywheel and the rear seal on the gearbox at a minimum or you will most likley by pulling it all out again after a few hundred km.
On a van stood this long ALL brake pipes and seals at a absolute minimum should be replaced. Most likley brake cylinders too. Commers have a very basic brake system and if any part fails the brakes will not work, its a matter of safety.
Just my 2c


I just need a good rootes...
 
WD40 is OK but its not penetrating oil. Best to get some plus gas or similar and give it a squirt every day for a while then work the linkage back and to, it should give eventually. A couple of taps with a hammer will help to:)


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