Back of the garage

it would have took half the time if it wasn,t for the chunky kit kat :D

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
I do like to savour them:p I also spend more time looking for stuff I've miss-placed rather than actually working[V] I've got lots of places to miss-place thing in :I

'Harvey the RV'
 
To think Harvey's engine was suspended on nothing more than wafer biscuit and chocolate [:0]

'Harvey the RV'
 
Had a look at the Rapier lump today, whipped off the head just to check all was in order and was pleasantly surprised. The head came off easily and after a quick scrub up with a scotch pad and some paraffin the piston crowns cleaned up well and the bores show no sign of wear or scoring, the combustion chambers and valve head are also in top condition. The pistons are stamped +30 so it has at least had a re-bore at some time but by the look of it has not had too much use since. Start swapping bits over from the original engine next, like front plate (for the engine mounts) and sump - or will the original be OK, anyone know. I would like to keep the viscous drive fan but not sure if it will fit with the Commer front plate yet - I'll soon find out.
Looks like £20 well spent [^]

'Harvey the RV'
 
Thanks Jimmy. I just checked the engine plate and it is a factory recon engine - no idea how old but if the rest of it is as good as the bores I'll be a happy man :D

'Harvey the RV'
 
I know there was something sump related that Charlie Klix was telling me which I have now conveniently forgotten:I hoping to catch up with them over the next few days so will ask the question (offer also still stands for a phone number):)

Bessie - four star commerdation
 
congratulations panky, at +030 your lump has reached the dizzy heights of 1755cc [^]

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
My god - how am I going to tame this beast[:0]
Do you think that SU will have a needle suitable for my dinky 1 3/4" carb to feed this extreme increase in capacity or shall I go for triple carbs to cope :I

'Harvey the RV'
 
its doubtful, probably requires twin superchargers feeding quad turbo,s through twin intercoolers to get enough air in those monster lungs :)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
I've been pootling about with oily bits for the last couple of weekends and have managed to dig the O/D box out and compare it with the Commer one. The O/D box input shaft and bell housing is a couple of inches longer than the Commers which will obviously give a few problems with the linkage. SunbeamSam managed to overcome this by winding the adjustment right out and bending the gear lever but I was wondering how much of a job it would be to swap the shafts round, the bell housing looks easy but is there anything stopping the shaft from being removed from the front without stripping the whole box down - any ideas.
Got a few bits from Speedies, head gasket set, sump gasket and a pair of new engine mounts so tomorrow things will hopefully start going back together.

'Harvey the RV'
 
its probably easier to lengthen the linkage a bit than to try swapping shafts, best to check the parts book as it may end with a pile of needle rollers on the floor [xx(]

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
I see what you mean, I cheated and looked in the manual:I. If it could be done then it would simplify things so much - I think I'll have to have a go. I'll start on the old box and see what happens and take it from there - if I get a needle roller explosion then I'll leave the O/D box alone and fiddle with the linkage.

'Harvey the RV'
 
you need to remove the bell housing and then the input shaft and bearing is held on with 4 nuts. There are 23 bearings inside the end of the shaft which you need to catch. Once you have it out, it (could) be quite straight forward to swap it with the other one. You just need to pack the bearings in with grease and make sure you don't loose any bearings into the gearbox!

I had the whole box apart so it was a little more easy to see what was going where. I don't think I've been that sucessfull though so don't listen to me
[V]


www.littleyellowcar.co.uk
 
After an attempt at removing the input shaft I've decided to go with modifying the linkage :I
Been cleaning the Rapier head up and noticed that in the water jacket bore hole, between No2 and No3 combustion chamber, there is what looks like a small core plug about an inch down, it looks like it either hasn't been pushed in properly or it's moved because at one side of it the is a gap. Is it supposed to be like that - maybe to stop preferential flows to certain parts of the jacket, or do I need to knock it back in (or out). Any ideas[?]

'Harvey the RV'
 
holbay head is the same, it looks like a insert put there in the casting process :)

"you were only supposed to blow the bloody SLIDING doors off"
 
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