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Tried the blue one wired to the spots last night - blimey it's bright:eek:

Don't forget the relays

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They are nice lamps:cool:
The relay is to save running cable carrying a fairly heavy load through the switch. Even though the ones you've ordered are rated at 25 amp the contacts could burn out a lot quicker than if they were simply operating the signal circuit to the relay - and it does shorten the heavier cable runs as you say. Very simple to wire in, I got these as they have dual outlets so one feed for each lamp.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Two-Pair-12v-5-Pin-30A-Normally-Open-Relays-Front-Fog-Light-Applications/132275134435?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
Didn’t know should have relays for lights. Bother. If spots are 55W each wouldn’t that only make 9ish A? Not got to spots yet. Just tidying up other switches and lamps on dashboard to start with. Looks like I may have to take dash off though. Hazards don’t work, found indicator relay and that’s good but can’t find hazard relay. Must be burried somewhere :mad: They used to work and indicators work and fuse must be ok as other things work from that fuse
 
It might well be fine, and relays were never fitted to Commers as standard, but I always use them when fitting accessories (except radio's etc)
On Harvey I've got them for electric fan, electric water pump, air horn, overdrive and will soon have another for spots. I have fitted another fuse box to feed it all though:)
 
I started a couple of repairs to Ted's woodwork and it sort of escalated a bit :rolleyes:
I began with a waist rail and front frame repair which went quite well

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Then I started poking at the other end, it looked fine but I ended up here

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I actually made a repair section for the top of the pillar

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Before I decided sod it and went a bit mad:oops:

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So tomorrow I'll be on the phone to Woodies to order two rear pillars, two waist rails and the ladder rail at the back. I did make this up a couple of years ago out of B&Q timber and it still looks good but as the back end will all be in bits I though I might as well do a proper job.
 
work on ted has stopped for a little while as it's..... erm...developed somewhat and a load of panels have been ordered:rolleyes:
So back doing a bit of Commer maintenance getting Bonnie ready for the MOT. Last year I lost a mud flap (I think it was caused by shoving a folding chair underneath) so while I was about it I thought I'd fit some new ones. Unfortunately where the mud flap bracket was attached to the box section was a bit scabby and a bit of a hole appeared with the slightest touch of a hammer, luckily it was very localised and only about four inches of the bottom of the box section needed plating. The mud flap on the other side didn't need much persuading to fall off either and exactly the same repair was need there too. All done now and the new flaps are on, for anyone looking for a set these are similar the ones I got.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANDROVE...hash=item56a8a94421:m:mj1EfsugczG04MN2vD2nvaA

They are a little shorter than the ones that came off and I used a piece of dexion angle to make brackets but they are the perfect width.
 
And that's Harvey with another 12 months ticket. I don't like the idea of MOT exemption so will carry on as normal.
 
Excellent :). My garage made an interesting comment that will insurance companies now start to stipulate an MoT? Or charge people without one a lot more??
 
There's been lots of discussion about it on other forums. Lots of speculation but not heard of anyone being charged more or having insurance invalidated because of the new rules - yet
 
Harvey has been misbehaving lately:( One minute he was fine the next he was misfiring/backfiring and spluttering and it got to the point where he was becoming undriveable. I found the K&N was pretty badly blocked and the carb dashpot low on oil, with this sorted he seemed OK for a while then it started again. The backfires suggested to me that it was an electrical problem so a spare coil was strapped on but it was just the same. I fitted a set of the Simonbbc electronic points about eight years ago and wondered if it had failed so I decided to swap the dizzy and go back to points, then I remembered the Accuspark dizzy I fitted to Ted the traveller - I did a visual comparison with a Commer dizzy a while ago and it looked identical so, as Ted is in disgrace at the back of the garage, I thought I'd try it in Harvey. It went straight in without any issues and after a bit of twiddling with the timing he fired up and ran fine:) Off out for a test drive and he performed well until I got a whiff of hot coolant escaping, turned out the outlet hose running from the lekky pump had split, luckily I had a spare bottom hose to modify and he was fixed in no time. Took him for a good run out with mixed driving conditions without further issues so hopefully he will be OK until I find a proper replacement dizzy - the advance curve will be all wrong with Teds dizzy so I'll make sure I put the right one in but at least I seem to have proven that the electronic points were at fault.
 
Well problem solved. Did read up on electric ignition after AA man fixed my bike but we spoke about old cars and said get e/i for R2. Is it the way forward? If so which one? He did say never buy a cheap one and reading up on them when they go they go so carry a spare one etc
 
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