Alternator to Alternator with built in regulator

The regulator in my commer ain't working anymore...
How can I change the current alternator to one with a built in regulator.What to do with wiring?
 
I'm afraid I haven't got a clue[8)] But some lekky genius will be along soon I'm sure:)

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Two's company
 
My Dodge has a Ford alt on it If you can wait till tomorrow I'll have a look and try to give you an idea as to how its been done !?


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Hi

I'll try to explain as simply as possible. A lot of the existing wiring and equipment is redundant, and can be removed. The wiring for the modern type of alternator is much simpler, but you need to take into account the current wiring layout of the van.

First, you need to look at where all the electrical control boxes are

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The Warning light control unit, Relay and Alternator control box are all now surplus to requirements and can be removed. However, the following steps must be followed:

1. On the warning light control unit, cut the ends off the brown/yellow wire and brown/black wire and join together (either with a scotchlock or any other method. Make sure the finished thing is well insulated.

2. At the alternator, the brown yellow wire will connect to the smaller of the three terminals on the new alternator.

3. You need to look for where the wire comes through the parcel shelf as shown on this photo. Within the wiring that is coming from here, you will find a thick brown wire (which goes back to the original alternator. You need to pull that out of the loom so you have enough wire to terminate it onto where the existing brown wire connects onto the terminal in the fuse box (You can see it coming out of the top left side of the fuse box). There is only one brown wire there, and you will need to put a suitable terminal onto it (a 6.3mm terminal). This wire carries all the power to the lights and the ignition circuit and all electrical accessories.

4. Now, you need to run a new cable from the fuse box to the solenoid (replacing the existing brown wire to the alternator). This need to be a suitable size cable, capable of carrying at least 35 amps (depending on the rating of the new alternator you have). This will need to go onto the side of the solenoid THAT IS NOT CONNECTED TO THE STARTER MOTOR).

5. Now, you need to run a shorter cable of the same thick wire between the same side of the solenoid and one of the large connectors on the new alternator.

Now, that all makes sense to me, but I am not sure if you are following? It is important to run the main supply from the alternator to the solenoid. This keeps the main current used to recharge the battery out of the main wiring circuits.

If you are interested, I can make up some a suitable kit of wires and connectors for you to be able to do this yourself (with slightly modified instructions). I reckon £15 including postage would cover it.

Email me if interested.

Cheers

Andy
 
Thanks, great help, something for next week to do.
Just send the rear wheels away to have them made 1J wider on the outside.
 
Just started the conversion, lots of wires!
Ar least I can take a out a huge amount of them and make it all a lot more simpel.
 
Yes was very easy, took longer to remove the bench and the engine panneling than it took to do the wiring. Removed all the old tape from the loom and removed all the useless wiring (quite a lot) and then replaced by new wiring and taped it all up again. Although you have to have some strong nerves when all the wiring is exposed as it looks pretty impressing.
If anyone is still running the "old" set-up, change it! You will remove so many possible faults and it is very easy, and ofcourse you will end up with an alternator which you can buy on every street corner (if it fails).
 
Harvey has been converted at some point and there are some links in the wiring I haven't figured out, but it works:)

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How refreshing
 
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