Air lock?

Don't know about the SU but there is a small filter just above the float needle valve in my carb which can get restricted if not checked/cleaned out.
 
No filter on an SU but if it's running very lean it could cause the engine to run hot. Remember on an SU you turn the screw in to richen the mixture. What needle are you running?
 
Panky said:
No filter on an SU but if it's running very lean it could cause the engine to run hot. Remember on an SU you turn the screw in to richen the mixture. What needle are you running?
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Crikey Panky , what needle ..... Haven't a clue , which ever was in it give me a tree I'll make you a table but engines are kind of new to me but giving it a go ... You guys here have been a great help !
 
That looks like one of Tim's inlet elbows so if he's had anything to do with the carb then the needle is probably OK, but it will need setting up properly. Did you put any oil in the dash pot after you fitted it?
 
The dash pot acts as a damper for the carb piston and stops it opening too quickly causing a weak mixture. Undo the black plastic nut on the top of the carb, should be finger tight, pull out the nut and the piston that is attached to it (don't worry nothing will fall off -hopefully;)) and dribble a bit of engine oil in there. If you look inside you will see the tube that the piston sits in - fill the tube with oil. You don't need much, just a couple of tea spoon fulls - don't worry if a little bit overflows it will just find it's way into the engine and burn off. Once you've finished push the piston back in and screw the nut back down- you will feel quite a bit of resistance but that is normal.
 
Panky said:
The dash pot acts as a damper for the carb piston and stops it opening too quickly causing a weak mixture. Undo the black plastic nut on the top of the carb, should be finger tight, pull out the nut and the piston that is attached to it (don't worry nothing will fall off -hopefully;)) and dribble a bit of engine oil in there. If you look inside you will see the tube that the piston sits in - fill the tube with oil. You don't need much, just a couple of tea spoon fulls - don't worry if a little bit overflows it will just find it's way into the engine and burn off. Once you've finished push the piston back in and screw the nut back down- you will feel quite a bit of resistance but that is normal.
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Ok that makes sense , I'll try tomorrow .... She a bit snug for room down there , I might need to take my better half , she has nimble fingers
 
So update ....... Took the van to the local garage ( they restore MG and Triumphs ) they have adjusted the timing but have said there is a sticky valve issue on NO 2 and causing gases .... SOUNDS ONAMOUS
 
You might be able to free the valve (if it isn't bent) without removing the cylinder head using rope, penetrant and an electric drill as described in this video (excuse the poor pictures)

 
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dodgeram said:
You might be able to free the valve (if it isn't bent) without removing the cylinder head using rope, penetrant and an electric drill as described in this video (excuse the poor pictures)

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Looks interesting ... Will see how feasible when I get the van back ..... Thanks for the vid
 
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